Hotel Shangri-La review, Singapore

THE LOCATION

The Singapore-born taxi driver has strong opinions about his nation-state. "Singapore is the finest place in the world," he says. "You get fined if you jump the traffic lights, you get fined if you jay-walk, you get fined if you smoke at a bus stop, you get fined if you drop rubbish …" Yes, we all know Singapore's government is tough but at the same time, for the tourist, it's produced a place that's incredibly clean, tidy, well-ordered and safe, that's also a marvel of modern progress, with some stunning high-rise architecture, lots of fun sights and things to do, amazing gourmet cuisine in top-class restaurants, and fabulous food you can buy from some of the best street hawkers in the world.

THE SPACE

Opened 46 years ago, the 750-room hotel has been renovated many times and its Tower Wing – one of three wings – recently underwent a $US80 million revamp. But the hallmark of the hotel are its six hectares of lush, beautifully landscaped gardens, and its massive pool overlooked by the wings. Another special feature is its staff. There must be few places left in the world where breakfast is served by waiters in full morning suits but that service is impeccable and the staff have perfected friendliness to an art. Concierge Chandra Mogan says he's a relative newcomer to the hotel – he's been here only 18 years – whereas many of the rest of the staff have been here for at least 40.

THE ROOM

An infallible guide to the quality of a room hangs in its wardrobe: the design and number of coat hangers provided. Top marks here in my deluxe suite in the Valley Wing for both the solid wooden quality and the quantity … 22! From here, things just keep getting better. The space is elegantly furnished and absolutely huge, with a vast lounge room, dining area and bedroom and two bathrooms – one with a double sink and a bath (joy of joys!) with a TV at its foot. The bed is also a super-king, and there are big windows looking out on to the pool and lush gardens.

THE FOOD

My big weakness on holiday is afternoon tea, and this one is magnificent, with dainty finger sandwiches, warm scones with butter, jam and cream, pastries, cakes, mini cookies, gourmet chocolates and champagne, served in the foyer. The first day, I'd just finished when a waiter approached. "We're now serving canapes," he told me. "It would be my pleasure to bring you some." If you manage to get away, the food at each of the three restaurants is pretty amazing, from the Tandoori fish at the international The Line to the steamed scallop and radish knotted with string bean, and braised lobster at the Cantonese Shang Palace, and the excellent pizzas at the Italian The Waterfall.