This was published 8 years ago
The other side of Jaipur – Dera Amer elephant camp and Amber village heritage walk
By Rob McFarland
Water carriers at the step well.Credit: Getty Images
As the third instalment in India's popular Golden Triangle itinerary, Jaipur doesn't get the same attention as big-hitters Agra and Delhi. It might not have the Taj Mahal or Delhi's magical mayhem, but there's plenty to keep visitors entertained for a few days.
Start by ticking off the spectacular Amber Fort, the lavish City Palace, the fascinating Jantar Mantar outdoor observatory and the intricately honeycombed Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds). Then, when you're ready to venture off the beaten track, check out these two immersive experiences.
DERA AMER ELEPHANT CAMP
It's a churlish gripe but drinking a gin and tonic on elephant back is surprisingly difficult. During a trek through Dera Amer's lush farmland, we pause at a raised platform where a pair of immaculately dressed waiters proffer two ice-cold G&Ts. It's a lovely touch but the reality of drinking one perched aloft three tonnes of lumbering elephant is rather different to the elegant image in my head. Perhaps I just need more practise.
After reading concerns about the treatment of the elephants that ferry tourists up and down the steep approach road to Amber Fort, I was keen to find a more humane elephant experience. Banyan Tours suggested Dera Amer elephant camp, a 30-minute drive from Jaipur in the foothills of the Aravalli mountains.
As soon as we stroll through the property's arched entrance, we're greeted by Laxmi, one of the camp's three resident females. I offer her a banana, which she deftly takes in the crook of her trunk and curls into her mouth.
Laxmi ambles away and we're introduced to 35-year-old Rangmala. Elephants can drink up to 50 gallons of water a day and her mahout, Anif, shows us how to fill up her trunk with a hose.
Next up: bath time. Using a stiff brush I scrub Rangmala's forehead and trunk, her hide thick and coarse. I'm worried I'm pressing too hard but Anif reminds me that in the wild elephants rub themselves against boulders and trees far more vigorously.
Lastly, we get the chance to decorate her trunk using water-solvent vegetable paints. While I clumsily colour in the design Anif has outlined, he constantly talks to Rangmala, patting her and gently cradling her trunk. They've been together for three years and the bond and affection between them is touching.
While Rangmala is prepared for our trek into the forest, I chat to Dera Amer's owner, Udaijit Singh. He knew nothing about elephants when he converted the 120-hectare property into a sanctuary in 2004, but as a keen animal-lover he wanted to provide a nature experience rather than build a resort. Now, he considers the three elephants "part of the family" and the camp offers a range of immersive experiences including meals, bathing and the occasional elephant polo match.
Even to the casual observer, it's clear the animals are well-looked after. Many of the elephants we've seen on the streets of Jaipur are wide-eyed with apprehension; here they're calm and relaxed.
I was reticent about doing an elephant ride but Udaijit explains that their biggest challenge is giving them enough exercise. In the wild they'd walk 30-40 kilometres per day and even on a property of this size it's hard to recreate that. Unlike the elephants trudging up the steep cobbled street to Amber Fort, here they're walking on flat, soft ground.
We clamber onboard the cushioned box seat on Rangmala's back and set off through the forest in the dusky twilight. Anif sits behind her head, providing directions via taps with a wooden stick.
We follow a meandering sandy path that takes us past a 500-year-old temple to our drinks stop. I manage to imbibe about a third of my G&T; the rest ends up on my pants.
Eventually, we arrive at a small, torch-lit clearing with an open-sided thatched hut and a roaring fire. It's a magical setting – a sheltered, secluded spot where the only sounds are a soft musical accompaniment from an unseen musician and the crackling of the fire.
All the food at Dera Amer is prepared onsite using fresh, organic ingredients from the camp's garden. After snacking on barbecued chicken and tasty fried potato balls, we sit down to a lavish Indian feast of tandoori chicken, lentil dal, goat curry and creamy palak paneer (spinach with cheese).
When it's time to go, we begrudgingly stroll back to camp, reluctant to leave this fairytale forested enclave. Soon guests won't have to. Udaijit plans to build two safari tents and will deliver guests to them on elephant back. My only tip: serve drinks once they've got off.
AMBER VILLAGE HERITAGE WALK
"Be careful of holy cow and holy shit," jokes Nagender, as we pick our way through Amber's quiet, dung-strewn streets. We're only 11 kilometres from the centre of Jaipur but the city feels a lifetime away.
Amber village sits in the shadow of Jaipur's star attraction, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed sandstone and marble Amber Fort. A visit to this imposing hilltop citadel is a must but consider combining it with half a day exploring Amber and the surrounding Aravalli mountains.
As the former capital of Rajasthan, Amber is home to an astonishing 365 temples spanning 1100 years. We start at one of the oldest – Ambikeshwar, a 9th-century Hindu temple dedicated to the god Shiva. After removing our shoes, we descend a flight of stairs to the original level of the city and enter the temple's small, inner chamber. A local legend claims it's gradually sinking into the ground and will one day be lost forever.
Next we trek up to the Sun Temple, which dates from 954AD and is one of only two temples in the area dedicated to the Sun god. The simple brick and stone structure commands sweeping views over the village's jumbled rooftops towards the Aravalli mountains.
Walking back into town we pass several crumbling 15th-century havelis, grand old mansions once owned by wealthy traders. Conspicuous in their midst is a gleaming three-storey white residence with impressive wrought iron gates. Nagender tells us the owner used to be a barber but has since amassed a fortune selling souvenirs at Amber Fort. Clearly, trading still has its rewards.
The last of our temple trifecta is the most spectacular. Sri Jagat Siromaniji was built around 1590AD and is accessed through a towering, elaborately carved stone gate. The temple's exterior is similarly lavish, a clash of soaring sandstone columns and intricate sculptures. Amazingly, we're the only tourists here.
As we enter, a priest begins a ceremony, solemnly waving a candle while two musicians bang drums and play traditional instruments with faith-testing vigour. Nagender says it will last around 10 minutes. We manage four.
More serene is the town's step well, a 10-metre-deep square chasm with staggered flights of steps leading down to the water. They're a common sight in Rajasthan, where water is scarce, although with the advent of modern pumps they're preserved purely for their historical significance.
Next up is the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing. Located in a beautifully restored haveli, it explains the ancient tradition of producing colourful printed textiles using handmade teak blocks.
From the museum, it's a short drive to Sagar lake, wedged in a picturesque valley in the Aravalli foothills. We stroll along the foreshore to a collection of mud-floored, thatched dwellings belonging to the local Meena tribe. They've been in the area since the 11th century, surviving on what they can scavenge and hunt in the surrounding hills. The government is trying to move them into modern housing and Nagender suspects this will be the last generation to live this simple subsistence life.
We run out of time for an extended hike (which I'm secretly relieved about after learning the region has a healthy leopard population). Instead, we visit one last temple, a simple, sky blue building a short climb above the reservoir. We find the priest asleep on a cot underneath a shelf littered with empty bottles. Nagender explains that during the new moon, he works himself into a trance and locals ask for advice on how they can redeem their sins. What does he ask for in return? Alcohol. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.
FIVE MORE THINGS TO DO IN JAIPUR
BOLLYWOOD DANCE CLASS
Learn the hip sways, finger wags and pelvic thrusts of a Bollywood dance routine. See banyantours.com.
A ROYAL FEAST
Samode Haveli's new restaurant serves traditional Rajasthani cuisine in an intimate dining hall decorated with hand-painted murals. See samode.com.
KITE FLYING LESSON
Learn the art of competitive kite flying in preparation for the city's annual kite festival on January 14. See banyantours.com.
HOT-AIR BALLOON RIDE
Enjoy an aerial perspective of Amber Fort with an early-morning hot-air balloon ride (September to March). See skywaltz.com.
PALLADIO RESTAURANT
Reached your curry threshold? Have a night off with delicious Italian cuisine at this unashamedly romantic bar and restaurant. See bar-palladio.com.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
incredibleindia.org.
GETTING THERE
Air India is the only airline to fly direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Delhi and has connecting flights to Jaipur. Phone 1800 247 463, see airindia.in.
STAYING THERE
Once the home of Maharaja Man Singh II, Rambagh Palace exudes fairytale glamour with lavish marble interiors and 19 hectares of manicured grounds. See tajhotels.com.
A former royal residence, Samode Haveli is an intimate mix of secluded courtyards, verdant lawns and palatial rooms. See samode.com.
SEE + DO
Banyan Tours can create a tailor-made Indian itinerary including accommodation, transfers and activities, including the Amber village walk and Dera Amer elephant experience. See banyantours.com.
The writer travelled as a guest of Air India, Banyan Tours, Taj Hotels and Samode Haveli.
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