By Keith Austin
Timeless appeal: The refurbishment of London's Savoy Hotel has enhanced its art deco charms. Credit: Richard Bryant
THE LOCATION
Sitting on a bend of the River Thames as it takes a sharp southern turn in the middle of London, the Savoy is within easy walking distance of Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden and the Royal Courts of Justice. The Savoy Court entrance is set back from The Strand proper, but you can't miss it as it's the only street in Britain where vehicles drive on the right. The rear of the property opens onto pretty Victoria Embankment Gardens.
THE SPACE
The Savoy first opened in 1889, and underwent a three-year £220 million ($370 million) top-to-bottom closure and refurbishment from 2007 to 2010, opening again to thankful cries of same-same-but-different. The changes were subtle and designed to bring the venerable old flagship up to modern standards but the classic bones – Edwardian decor Thames-side and art deco on the Strand side – remained the same.
New design features include the lovely stained-glass cupola above the garden-style gazebo in the Thames Foyer (where the classic afternoon tea is served), a new teashop, patisserie, and the swanky, sexy black-and-gold art deco theatrics of the Beaufort Bar.
Unchanged, sensibly, is the iconic American Bar. Walking in here is like wandering onto a film set or through a time warp to the 1920s – and the cocktails are excellent. Just nearby there's a small room that doubles as a museum featuring fascinating bits and bobs from the hotel's archives.
From the chic Lalique fish fountain at the front entrance to the traditional elegance of Kaspar's dining room (formerly the River Restaurant) at the rear, everything here screams old-style sophistication and class.
THE ROOM
My room is at the back of the building, overlooking Victoria Embankment and the Thames itself and reached via quiet corridors lined with striped beige-and-gold wallpaper. This is the original, Edwardian section of the building and as such the design and decor is less fussy than the more ornate art deco extensions.
There is a beautifully old-fashioned feel to the room – you can imagine it wasn't much different to this when actor Janet Leigh stayed here in the 1950s and 1960s – while still being thoroughly modern (free WiFi, flat-screen TV, Nespresso pods and the like).
In the harlequin floor-tiled bathroom, for instance, the marble-topped twin sinks are housed in a wooden vanity unit and the free-standing bath is exquisitely deep and suitably claw-footed. There is a separate toilet and a shower with a rainfall showerhead should you be one of the modern philistines who eschew a long soak in a proper bathtub.
The bed is enormous. You will need crampons to get onto it and belay ropes to get down in the morning. It is, as you would expect, terribly comfortable.
THE FOOD
The three main dining areas in the hotel are Kaspar's Seafood Bar and Grill, Gordon Ramsay's Savoy Grill (classic British with a French twist) and the Thames Foyer for afternoon tea. Kaspar's has been redesigned in a thoroughly modern version of a 1920s bar/restaurant and serves up a cornucopia of seafood dishes. If you go, do not go past the signature seafood pie, which comes with fish, prawns and scallops all bubbling and jammed under a parmesan and potato crust. The Atlantic cod fish and chips are simple but the freshness of the fish is evident. If you book a table for 13 the staff will dig out the large black Kaspar the cat statue and seat it at the table, complete with napkin and place setting, to avoid that unlucky number.
STEPPING OUT
Really, you're in the middle of London; just walk out the door and you're bound to bump into something. If you don't want to go too far the Savoy Theatre is practically inside the building and the lively theatre district is minutes away, as are Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery and Covent Garden.
There are plenty of pubs in the area if you want traditional British fare, but for a change you might take in an affordable cafe lunch in the crypt of St Martin-in-the-Fields church.
The Victoria Embankment Gardens are good for a stroll on a fine day and there are several places to stop for a snack or a cold drink. You might be lucky to catch a lunchtime bandstand performance (free entrance and no charge for the deckchairs).
THE VERDICT
One of the most iconic hotels in London is now managed by the Fairmont hotel group and deserves every one of its five stars. From the jaw-droppingly impressive foyer to the professional staff and beautifully refurbished rooms, the Savoy is excellence made concrete.
ESSENTIALS
The Savoy, Strand, London, United Kingdom WC2R 0EU. Deluxe double rooms from £445 ($750) inclusive of VAT. See fairmont.com/savoy-london for more details.
HIGHLIGHT
The American Bar is such a jewel in the Savoy's crown that when changes were needed to the space during the refurbishment they put everything back exactly as it was. You don't mess with perfection.
LOWLIGHT
The gym, pool and spa above the Savoy Theatre feel crammed and perfunctory. More than two people in the gym and it's crowded.
Keith Austin was a guest of the Savoy.
Our Rating: 5 out of 5
TripAdvisor Traveller Rating: 4.5
Sign up for the Traveller newsletter
The latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.