Rice fields surround the pool at Sanak Retreat Bali. Credit: Michael Gebicki
THE LOCATION
The retreat sits towards the north coast of Bali, buried amid the steep slopes of the Buleleng region close to the town of Banyuatis. The setting is overwhelmingly rural. Rice fields creep into the retreat and the mountains are covered with coffee and cacao plantations with lime-green clove trees towering above them. Everywhere is the sound of running water, Bali's theme song, and a thousand froggy voices fill the night air.
THE SPACE
The retreat steps down gently from the villas at the top to an infinity swimming pool in the middle and a rice field below, where farmers work industriously in the mornings. Overlooking the pool is a pretty, open-fronted timber pavilion with multicoloured tables, decorated with artefacts sourced from throughout the Indonesian archipelago by Sanak's French owner. Eco-consciousness runs high. It's beautifully maintained and totally plastic free, with only the lightest of footprints on its surroundings. On the other side of a tumbling stream is the massage pavilion, with treatment rooms on the upper level. The massage ladies are expert and prices are reasonable.
THE ROOM
There are just 11 timber villas with one to three bedrooms. Decorated with Balinese motifs, each sits in its own garden setting and has a big private patio, though the one-bedroom villas are tight. After our first night we mentioned this to Sebastian, the manager, and were moved next door to a spacious two-bedroom villa, which was perfect. Sanak works hard to minimise its environmental impact and the lack of airconditioning means the villas warm up in the afternoon but evening brings cool relief. There are no TVs but Wi-Fi is decent.
THE FOOD
It's east-west fusion food with fresh as its focus on a menu that also borrows from the Thai table. Rice, vegetables and fruit are all locally sourced, some from Sanak's own garden. The retreat is close enough to the coast to benefit from the local fishing fleet and tuna is a standout. A specialty is ayam betulu – moist, fragrant, smoked chicken steamed in a banana leaf for which a day's notice is required. An a la carte breakfast is included, the fruit juices are squeezed to order and there's an espresso machine as well as local-style coffee.
STEPPING OUT
The guided half-day walk through the rice fields is well worthwhile but start no later than 8am. Grand finale is a walk down a deep ravine to a waterfall with a cool and delicious swimming hole. The early-morning drive to the bustling market at Seririt is worth the trip, even for Bali aficionados since it's authentic, with no concessions to the tourist trade. A visit to the nearby hot springs rounds off the morning – take bathers. The closest town is Banyuatis, about a 10-minute stroll, and foreigners are rare enough to attract second glances. In late afternoon a gamelan orchestra composed mainly of women sometimes rehearses in the space behind the town's sacred banyan tree and the music drifts all the way to the retreat. You can hire a scooter and explore the coast road and beaches around the Lovina resort area but beware the steep "nature" road to the coast – it's not for the fainthearted, especially on scooters with less-than-perfect brakes.
THE VERDICT
For anyone who cherishes memories of the southern side of Bali as it once was, Sanak is a trip through the time tunnel. It's a deeply soothing chill zone, a window on a quieter, simpler Bali, but definitely not for anyone who wants nightlife and shopping.
ESSENTIALS
Banjar Dinas Menagung. Desa Kayuputih, Buleleng, Bali Indonesia 81152. Doubles from $US146 ($189) plus 21 per cent tax. See sanakbali.com
HIGHLIGHT
The stage below the swimming pool, where local schoolgirls come just before sunset twice a week to practise the fluid movements of traditional Balinese dancing under a watchful tutor.
LOWLIGHT
Hanging and storage space in the one-bedroom villas is barely adequate for one.
Michael Gebicki stayed at his own expense.
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