River drifting on the Atnarko River.
THE TRIP
NAME
Susan Packer and Jamie Nicolai, Ascot Vale, Victoria
THE TRIP
Tweedsmuir Park Lodge Grizzly Bear Safari, British Colombia
THE ITINERARY
Seeing a bear in the wild has been on our wish list for years, so when visiting Canada recently, we booked this trip to give us the best chance.
Tweedsmuir Park Lodge is in a remote area of the Great Bear Rainforest; surrounded by salmon-filled rivers and glacier-topped mountains.
To reach Tweedsmuir, we flew from Vancouver to Bella Coola. It was an adventure in itself to fly up the rugged coastline and inland over the mountains.
There we were met by Woody, a laconic and gentle Tweedsmuir guide who seemed so attuned to the outdoors that he could survive with only pocket knife if needs be.
Woody drove us to the lodge and after lunch he took us for a "river drift" – floating down the river in a sturdy row boat, watching salmon pushing their way upstream and *SQUEAL* seeing our first grizzly bear, crossing the river ahead. Friends have asked since if we were scared. We were in such experienced hands that we felt awestruck, not fearful.
This set the tone for the rest of our five-night stay. Every day we went out with a different guide to walk or row along the river, or drive to more remote areas. Some were locals who knew every inch of the landscape and others were qualified naturalists. All were united by their daily wonder and enthusiasm for this untamed wilderness. Overall, with their guidance, we saw six grizzly bears and a little black bear.
Our accommodation was in a stylish cabin facing a grand central lawn. Evenings were spent in the welcoming main lodge with its huge leather couches and magnificent stone fireplace.
On arrival, one of the staff teasingly told another guest that no one is on a diet at Tweedsmuir. We soon realised why – all meals are included in the package and they were delicious and made from local produce. Packed lunches were provided when we were out in the field and eating lunch in the sunshine out along the river was unforgettable.
BEST BITS
The salmon run is an extraordinary natural phenomenon and worth seeing in its own right.
We did an add-on helicopter flight up to the glaciers and lakes on the top of the mountains. It was great fun.
WORST BIT
Dawn and dusk are good times to see bears. Be prepared to be up early!
BEST TIP
Book in January if you want to visit in the warmer summer months.
WHERE TO NEXT
After Tweedsmuir we took the Rocky Mountaineer to Jasper. It's reignited a love of train travel and next we plan to take the Ghan to Darwin.
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