The Tripologist

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This was published 7 years ago

The Tripologist

By Michael Gebicki
Tea time: Sri Lanka tours cover similar ground.

Tea time: Sri Lanka tours cover similar ground.Credit: Getty Images

WE ARE TWO LADIES HIRING A CAR TO DRIVE AROUND SOUTH ENGLAND FOR 13 DAYS IN LATE AUGUST. WE HAVE BOOKED ACCOMMODATION FOR THE FIRST SIX NIGHTS; SHOULD WE PRE-BOOK FOR THE REST? WE HAVE AN EARLY FLIGHT FROM HEATHROW — ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR STAYING NEARBY? ALSO, ANY TIPS ON MAPS AND DRIVING, AND WHERE TO EAT WITHOUT SPENDING A FORTUNE?
C. BROWN, LANGWARRIN, VIC

If you know where you’re going to be spending the last days of your trip, pre-book – late August is still peak holiday season. A GPS is essential and for a 13-day hire, it might be less expensive to buy one locally. I use Sygic’s Western Europe (www.sygic.com), which you can download to a smartphone or tablet for $37.99, with no global roaming charges. Rather than staying near Heathrow I’d suggest a hotel close to Paddington Station from where you can catch the Heathrow Express (heathrowexpress.com) to the airport terminal in 15 minutes. A reader recommends the Lancaster Hall Hotel (lancaster-hall-hotel.co.uk). You can eat well in many pubs throughout the country for about $15 for lunch and about $25 for a main dinner course. In London, in Jamie Oliver’s Recipease cafes, for example, a Thai green curry costs about $13.60.

MY WIFE AND I ARE PLANNING A TRIP TO SRI LANKA EARLY NEXT YEAR. WE WANT TO GO ON A GUIDED, ALL-INCLUSIVE TOUR BUT THERE IS A CERTAIN SAMENESS TO THE TOURS WITHIN OUR MID-RANGE BUDGET. WE'RE IN OUR 60s AND REASONABLY FIT AND ADVENTUROUS, WE LIKE EXPLORING CULTURES AND EXPERIENCING DIFFERENT FOOD, BUT WE DON'T LIKE TRAVELLING EN MASSE. WE'RE PLANNING TO SPEND ABOUT TWO WEEKS. IS THERE A TOUR FOR US?
P. BRADSHAW, COFFS HARBOUR

Due to the country's topography and the location of its main attractions, the clockwise loop tour that is the standard fare in Sri Lanka is almost impossible to escape, but some tour operators go out of their way to give you a genuine taste of the things you're looking for. Bunnik Tours (bunniktours.com.au) has a 17-day tour, A Taste of Sri Lanka, that might suit you. This is available either as an escorted small-group tour or, at a higher price, with a guide and driver for just the two of you. Another option is Byroads' (byroads.com.au) 12-day Secrets of Sri Lanka, scheduled for March. As well as the beaches, tea plantations, Buddhist sites and the elephant orphanage at Pinnawala, this tour also visits the country estate of renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa. Accommodation in several places is in colonial-style hotels, many with history written into every fibre.

AFTER VISITING MOST OF THE PACIFIC ISLANDS OVER THE PAST 15 YEARS, MY WIFE AND I STARTED INVESTIGATING THE SOLOMON ISLANDS. IT APPEARS THAT TOURIST INFRASTRUCTURE THERE IS QUITE PRIMITIVE. CAN YOU CONFIRM THIS AND ADVISE US ON THE BEST RESOURCE TO HELP PLAN OUR HOLIDAY THERE?
G. OP DEN BROUW, LIVERPOOL

You’re right about the infrastructure, but that makes it more rewarding for intrepid travellers. Flexibility is required, but if you go with the flow, you should have an amazing experience, and come back with great stories to tell. Even finding out what you might do there can be difficult, but diving, snorkelling, World War II history and immersion in a Melanesian culture that survives almost intact are some of the possibilities. For research, you might see our Traveller website (smh.com.au) or check out Travel Solomons (travelsolomons.com), Welkam Solomons (welkamsolomons.com) and Extreme Adventures (solomonadventures.com). Tourism Solomon Islands (visitsolomons.com.sb) has a list of travel agents and tour operators, or possibly read The Solomon Islands by Thomas Booth.

FEEDBACK: OVER TO YOU

The question ‘‘What’s the weirdest thing you have eaten on an overseas trip?’’ elicited only a single response, but it’s a cracker.

‘‘I was in Shanghai recently and the hotel meal was laid out on tables in dozens of dishes, some labelled in English and others in Chinese. I found one with a Chinese label that looked interesting. It was so good I returned for more, but the kitchen staff saw me and panicked.‘No! No! Must cook first!’ ‘Why?’ I asked.‘It is raw horse throat and it must be cooked!’ Sadly, when it was cooked, it did not taste as good.’’ Thanks to L. McAuliffe. Your choice of a guidebook from the Lonely Planet range is well deserved.

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It often seems that locals save their most pungent dishes for foreigners as a kind of insider joke. Memorable moments from my Asian food misadventures have included snake soup (Hong Kong) and chrysanthemum leaf fried in a light batter (Japan). One culinary misstep you might want to avoid is a sinister Japanese breakfast product called natto. Made from fermented soy beans, natto consists of small brown pellets floating in a gooey paste, which forms mozzarella-like strings as you try to hoist it to your mouth. The smell is distinctive, the taste not easily forgotten.

Next question — what do you do to make your in-flight experience more comfortable? Lonely Planet guidebooks for all published responses.

SEND US YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS

Include your name and your suburb or town and send it to tripologist@fairfaxmedia.com.au. Questions appearing in print will be answered. All published questions will win a Lonely Planet guidebook.

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