The Vineyard Retreat, Blewitt Springs accommodation review: Weekend away

The location

McLaren Vale is widely regarded as the most experimental wine region in South Australia. While its reputation hinges on shiraz, the region is now making a wonderful range of Spanish and Italian varietals, such as tempranillo, nero d'avola and fiano. The advent of local cheeses, olive oil, game meats, craft beer and other niche products is further adding to the region's reputation for excellence, purity and heart. But McLaren Vale is not defined entirely by food and wine. As part of the Fleurieu Peninsula, there are plenty of outdoorsy things to keep the teetotaller amused - cycling, golf, yachting, surfing, scuba diving and sea kayaking are all popular activities.

The place

The Vineyard Retreat is set on a small working vineyard at the northern end of McLaren Vale. The property comprises four purpose-built holiday cottages, each enjoying pleasant vineyard and valley views. The Strand, where we stayed, is the smallest of the four and offers a comfortable bedroom with ensuite bathroom, lounge room and a galley kitchen. The wood-burning heater is a welcome addition. Interiors are fresh and contemporary, with good-quality beds, sofas and well-chosen pieces of furniture, artworks and ornaments. The Strand has recently undergone a refurbishment, but couples needing more space should probably book The Ardmore. Families will want to reserve The Manhattan, the largest of the four guest houses.

The experience

Although John Reynell planted the first vines here in 1838, McLaren Vale still feels like an emerging wine region. With this freshness comes a more edgy, contemporary vibe evident at newer cellar doors, such as Primo Estate, Hugh Hamilton, Mitolo and Ekhidna Wines. At some of the more boutique wineries, such as Oliver's Taranga and Samuels Gorge, you'll probably meet the winemaker across the counter. To get the most out of your stay, it's worth signing up for a guided tour. Two of the best are the well-established Wine Diva Tours run by Greg Linton and the newer Off Piste 4WD Tours, which combine wine tasting with some off-road, craft-beer and culinary adventures.

Don't miss

Nearby Gulf St Vincent is spectacular, with both Sellicks Beach and Aldinga Beach offer safe swimming and modest waves for surfing - you can also park your car on the sand. Afterwards drop into the Victory Hotel at Sellick Hill for a laid-back lunch (try the Victory Beef Burger or beer-battered King George Whiting). The Willunga farmers' market is held every Saturday morning and features more than 55 stalls selling everything from sourdough to local venison. Continue your culinary safari at nearby Fino, which serves beguiling Italian-inspired fare using fine local produce.

Need to know