This was published 7 years ago
The Watergate Hotel, USA: High end glamour and political intrigue, synonymous with The Watergate
By Margaret Easterbrook
The cab turns off Virginia Avenue, sweeps up the curved driveway and stops before the smartly dressed bellmen at the entry of the hotel.
The metre high lettering at the entrance leaves me in no doubt that I have arrived at the Watergate, a name synonymous with political intrigue, public betrayal and most recently, luxury.
I'm initially more excited to be seeing the Watergate up close, than about staying at this posh establishment. After all, few hotels can boast having helped bring down a president.
The Watergate Hotel Watergate Hotel to go with Margie Easterbrook feature on the redevelopment. SuppliedCredit: Ron Blunt
On the banks of the Potomac River in Foggy Bottom, one of Washington's oldest neighbourhoods, The Watergate's unusual almost austere façade belies the $A250 million that has been spent reviving it as a stylish destination.
Complete with custom-made retro furniture and sleek lines that evoke the understated elegance of the 1960s, the makeover features a whisky bar, cigar lounge, mosaic-tiled indoor pool, spa, and rooftop bar with 360 degree views of the US capital. Bold colours, bio-morphic shapes and moulded edges complete the theme.
The hotel opened in 1967 as part of a five building complex with apartments, offices, shops and restaurants set on four hectares of landscaped gardens with a swimming pool, sculptures and water features.
Over the years the apartments have attracted celebrity residents including Placido Domingo, Condoleeza Rice, Elizabeth Taylor, politicians, staffers and a notable intern - Monica Lewinsky who hid out at her mother's place during the Clinton impeachment.
The mid-century modernist style of Italian architect Luigi Moretti divided opinion at the time with critics claiming the flowing design jarred with Washington's many symmetrical neo-classical buildings. The project's scale also caused angst.
But the controversy over the exterior was nothing compared to the scandal created in 1972 by what is now simply known as "Watergate" which started with a bungled burglary at the Democratic National Committee headquarters located in offices next to the hotel.
A series of events exposed by The Washington Post, and subsequent Senate hearings linked the break-in to the Republican Administration and two years later led to the resignation of Richard Nixon – the first president in US history to resign.
While gaining notoriety through the scandal, over the years the hotel lost its allure as a playground for the rich and famous. It changed hands several times and underwent various reincarnations but the arrival of the global financial crisis effectively finished it off.
It closed in 2007, was left vacant for many years and subsequently fell into disrepair.
See also: Inside Donald Trump's hotel
In 2010 Jacquesand Rakel Cohen, a New York-based couple and their Euro Capital Properties forked out $A60 million for the site with plans to gut and rebuild. Jacques Cohen said at the time they wanted to make a statement, not simply build a "cookie-cutter hotel".
While recognising the allure of the Nixon link, their primary interest was in re-creating The Watergate's appeal as a glamour destination.
They brought in acclaimed Israeli-born, London-based architect Ron Arad, whose bold design has featured in exhibitions around the world including at New York's Museum of Modern Art, the Pompidou Centre in Paris and the Barbican in London.
Picking up on the Watergate's undulating exterior, which mimics the bends of the Potomac nearby, curves feature inside the hotel, not just in its furnishings but in the layout of the walkways which ensures natural light and a view from almost every aspect.
The long, sculptured brass reception desk and floor to ceiling stainless steel pillars in the lobby set the scene on arrival of 60s elegance mixed with modern flair.
In a cheeky and effective nod to the glamour of the period, the staff uniforms are the work of Emmy Award winning costume designer Janie Bryant who produced the wardrobe for the highly successful Mad Men television series.
The bar, restaurant, front desk, concierge and housekeeping staff each have their distinctive, Bryant-designed uniforms which are highly tailored in keeping with the period, yet smart and functional.
Off the lobby sits The Next Whisky Bar, an intimate retreat with walls consisting of hundreds of filled and base-lit whisky bottles emitting a cosy amber glow. Comfortable, red sculptured Moroso chairs add to the vibe.
The significance of the bar's name is not lost on fans of the 60s band, The Doors, who in Alabama Song sang "...show me the way/To the next whisky bar/Oh, don't ask why, Oh don't ask why".
I'm not much of a whisky drinker but this central location provided a comfortable spot for a bit of people watching and celebrity spotting (Stevie Wonder, in my case) while feigning to read the paper as I waited for friends.
One of the Cohens key achievements in the redevelopment was the re-creation of the grand ballroom. In a complex move, a rooftop garden was demolished and reinstated to enable the ballroom's ceiling, lit by thousands of sparkling LED lights, to be raised by just over two metres.
The Top of the Gate Bar with oversized lounges and views across the DC skyline is popular with hotel guests as well as locals for uninterrupted views of the sunset while sharing Asian-inspired tapas and having a pre-dinner drink.
The clientele is diverse and includes those in black tie catching up before heading to the Kennedy Centre across the road to take in a bit of ballet, Washington politicos chilling after work, and the young fashionistas working their way through the cocktail list.
A rather urbane looking man, wearing an Akubra, makes himself comfortable sipping a chardonnay while basking in the sunset. His choice of headwear and laid back demeanour suggest he is a well-travelled gent.
While there are no blatant references to the hotel's sordid past, political junkies won't be disappointed by a series of clever and witty acknowledgements of the notorious Nixon era and the mark it left on American political history.
Pencils by the bedside and on the desk in guest rooms bear the words "I stole this from the Watergate Hotel" in a clear invitation to be pocketed (which I did) while there is a gentle reminder to guests on room keys that there is "no need to break in".
Guests are treated to recordings of Nixon speeches when put on hold while seeking assistance from the front desk and, in a less obvious play on the theme, the customer service number ends in the digits 1972.
Like everything about The Watergate even these nods to its storied past are done with a certain sophistication which helps it meet the promise set out in its promotional material of being "unapologetically luxurious".
This place most definitely oozes 60s glamour and sex appeal but with an alluring hint of past seediness.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
www.thewatergatehotel.com/Washington DC
GETTING THERE
Qantas flies from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane to Los Angeles, with connecting American Airlines flights to Washington DC. Phone 131313 or go to www.qantas.com.
STAYING THERE
The Watergate Hotel is at 2650 Virginia Ave NW, Washington DC. Reservations can be made at reservations@thewatergatehotel.com. Rooms start at $A414. Phone (844) 617 1972.
SEE & DO
The hotel is close to historic Georgetown, 2.5 kilometres from the Washington Monument, and 2 kilometres from the Lincoln Memorial and the White House. The National Gallery of Art, the Newseum, the National Air and Space Museum and the other Smithsonians are about 4 kilometres away
Margaret Easterbrook stayed as a guest of Watergate Hotel.
See also: The best hotel designs in Australia
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