Seville can be a delight no matter what sort of budget you are travelling on.
Grab a chocolate-filled pastry at Horno de San Buenaventura (hornosanbuenaventura.com; $2) before walking over to the humungous main university building (Universidad de Sevilla, us.es). It's a former tobacco factory that features in Bizet's Carmen and free tours at 11am are story-packed. A $13 grilled tuna lunch at fabulously old-fashioned Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa is a great introduction to the atmospheric old Jewish quarter – Barrio de Santa Cruz. Get lost among the cobbled streets and orange tree-filled squares before heading south to the meticulously landscaped gardens and photogenic, pompous monuments in the Parque de María Luisa. Buzzy, contemporary tapas bar Eslava (espacioeslava.com) is the spot for dinner, costing around $17 for four choices – one of which should be the honey-glazed ribs. Bed down in the nearby Hotel America (hotelamericasevilla; from $76), a solidly comfortable three star close to both the nightlife and shopping areas.
Easy does it
Eggs any style with bacon and cheese at La Azotea Mateos Gago (laazoteasevilla.com; $13) should fuel a two-wheeled ride around harder-to-reach areas of the city – Centerbici (centerbici.com) does day-long bike rentals for $18. Check out the ceramic factories in Triana before heading back to the centre. Taste tapas at family-owned Bodeguita Romero (bodeguita-romero.com; $19) – the "pringa" pork sandwich is sensational – then pedal to the Cathedral (catedraldesevilla.es; $12). It's a giant, Gothic monster, and the hugely decorated organ and Christopher Columbus' OTT tomb are the star attractions. Enjoy dinner on the terrace at Vinería San Telmo (vineriasantelmo.com; $29) then watch authentic flamenco performance in an evocatively intimate venue – Casa de la Memoria (casadelamemoria.es; $26). Stay at the Hospes Las Casas Del Rey De Baeza (hospes.com; from $196), a tranquil spot that wraps gorgeously around peaceful courtyards.
Kick off at the newest Game Of Thrones filming location – Seville's extraordinary Alcazar (alcazarsevilla.com; $14). A network of sumptuously decorated palaces and fountain-filled gardens, it shows off just how rich Seville got when the city had monopolistic control over Spain's trade with the Americas. Enjoy a Michelin-starred degustation lunch at Abantal (abantalrestaurante.es; $80) before clip-clopping through the Barrio de Santa Cruz for an hour on a horse and cart ($66). They can be found outside the Cathedral. Finish the afternoon by relaxing with thermal pools, aromatherapy and an hour's massage at the restored Arab Baths (airedesevilla.com; $125). Dinner is an odyssey of discovery, hopping between some of the lesser known, but supremely high quality, small plates joints with Azahar Sevilla's tapas tour (azahar-sevilla.com/tapas-tours; from $87). Sleep at the ridiculously OTT, palace-like Alfonso XII (hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com; from $440, including a lavish breakfast).