Tintaldra, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

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Tintaldra, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

Tintaldra, VIC

Tintaldra, VIC

Tintaldra is a picturesque village situated beneath the Snowy Mountains on the southern banks of the Murray River which forms the state border. It is 434 km north-east of Melbourne, 138 km east of Albury and 22 km north-east of Corryong.

In 1837, when a severe seven-year drought first hit the Monaro district, Charles Huon de Kerrilleau was but one squatter who went in search of fresh grass and water. He became the first known white man in the Tintaldra area when he was led to this district on the Murray River by an Aboriginal guide. Deciding to take up a lease in the new country he returned to Tumut where he spread the word. The story reached the ears of local landowner Rowland Shelley who dashed off to claim the 'Tintaldra' run for his brother William and the 'Weleregang' run for himself. These cattle stations were the first white settlements on the Upper Murray.

The family later took up more runs adjacent 'Tintaldra' for other family members but, apart from the odd cattle-herd, the only occupants of the property were cattle.

William Shelley died in 1845 and the family gradually withdrew from the area. 'Tintaldra' changed hands several times until taken over, in 1854, by Sydney Grandison Watson who is effectively the town's founder.

By this time the Victorian goldrush had been going for three years. It caused a phenomenal amount of immigration and when the alluvial gold ran out in the 1860s thousands of former prospectors began to fan out across the countryside in search of land and other means of making a living. As the era of the selector dawned and the number of people in the area increased Watson decided to replace a storage shed on his run with a proper store and so the Tintaldra store, which is still standing, was erected in 1864.

A hand-hauled punt was established across the river at this time by Christian Vogel fromTumbarumba. Vogel, a blacksmith, carpenter and dentist, built a house for his family. Watson had his own home built, along with a hand-made brick hotel.

Tintaldra experienced a boom period in its early days for a few simple reasons: the punt service was the only one on the Upper Murray and thus drew much traffic to the new town; it was on the main north-south route; being at the border it had a customs house to collect duties on interstate goods; it had the only supply store in the district; the post office, which opened within the store in 1867, served an area as far south-west as Cudgewa and as far north-west as Walwa; all new selectors had to have their land applications signed by the policeman at Tintaldra; it had a doctor, blacksmith and wheelwright, and the local Road Board met at Tintaldra.

However, after its excellent start the town did not really grow as hoped. Some of the reasons probably lie in the development of other local centres. A tin mine opened at Walwa, a store opened at Corryong, road patterns changed and state customs were abolished with Federation in 1901.

In 1892 a bridge replaced the punt service across the Murray and a butter factory opened at Cudgewa, providing a fillip for local farmers who transported their milk for processing at Cudgewa.

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2000 acres of the 'Tintaldra' run were bought up by the Repatriation Department after the First World War. They were divided up into 200-acre blocks and sold by ballot to ex-servicemen with repayments to be made over 40 years. The department supplied building materials but the men had to do the rest.

A bakery operated behind the store from 1927 but it closed due to lack of manpower in the Second World War.

Schooling at Tintaldra had started in the home of one of Watson's employees as he refused a request for a school to be built on his property. It later moved into a hall. A proper school building was not erected until well into the 20th century and it was soon burned down by the 1939 bushfire. It was some years before another school building appeared and it was burned down again by the 1952 bushfire. However, a consolidated school was established at Corryong that same year.

Things to see

Waltons Tintaldra General Store
The general store, in Main St, was built in 1864 at the behest of Sydney Grandison Waton who owned the 'Tintaldra' run. It was the first substantial dwelling at Tintaldra and represented the nucleus around which the town was to grow. The store was constructed from columns of red gum which supported red-gum beams, red-gum rafters and wooden shingles. The walls were vertical slats of red stringybark. All of the wood was cut locally. In the 1930s the north side was extended, the side sections raised and a plate-glass window installed. The interior was lined with patterned tin.

Today it features a craft shop and museum section with a collection of artefacts and historic photographs. Gifts, provisions, refreshments and tourist information are also available. It is open daily, tel: (02) 6077 9201.

Tintaldra Hotel
The other main building in town is the Tintaldra Hotel which overlooks the river. It is not the same as the public house which was built by Watson opposite the store c.1864. The present structure was in existence by 1874 and was originally known as the Pet Lamb.

Farrans Lookout
About 6 km along the road to Corryong is a turnoff to Farrans Lookout. A little further south is Towong (see entry on Corryong).

Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park
Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park (18 095 ha) is a steep, rocky, remote and highly scenic area which consists of two blocks containing very different types of vegetation. There are 180 bird species, including lyrebirds, as well as wombats, kangaroos and wallabies. Possible activities include scenic drives, bushwalking, abseiling and bush camping.

To gain access head south-west along the Cudgewa Rd for 16 km then turn right onto the scenic Cudgewa North-Walwa Rd (gravel but passable in a 2WD). After 7 km you can either continue on towards Walwa or take a left turn into Falls Rd which leads to Bluff Creek Picnic Area where there is a minor campsite. Bluff Falls are 2 km upstream. You can drive there or take the Bluff Falls Nature Trail from the picnic area (4 km return). An accompanying leaflet provides information relating to items of interest along the walk which are denoted by numbered posts. These include the creek, the falls, Cudgewa Bluff, local flora and fauna, logging remnants and a wombat's burrow. The leaflet can be picked up from the boxes at either end of the track.

A second walk (500 m one-way) starts from the Bluff Falls carpark and leads to Top Falls from whence a third walk (700 m one-way) continues on across the creek then up to a rocky escarpment known as Campbells Lookout (700 m one-way) which affords fine views of the valley with Mt Mittamatite, Corryong and the Snowy Mountains in the distance. The green flowers of the Pine Mountain grevillea can be seen near the lookout in spring. Both of these trails are steep and rough.

The turnoff onto the Ross Lookout track (3 km one way) is signposted on your right about 100 m after the Campbells Lookout track crosses the creek. This route furnishes outstanding views although it is also steep and rough. It passes stands of wild cherry trees and black cypress pines and there is an un-named lookout near the intersection of the walking track and the 4WD track. 600 m further down the 4WD track, to your left, is the short diversion to Ross Lookout.

Aside from the Bluff Creek Picnic Area there are two other minor campsites. The Bluegum Camp is not far from, and is accessible from, the Bluff Creek camp.

The turnoff to the Hinces Creek camping area runs off the Cudgewa North-Walwa Rd, about 3 or 4 km north-west of the turnoff into Falls Rd. The Hinces Creek walking track (3.5 km one way) heads south-west from the campsite along an old vehicle track then closely follows the creek. The walking conditions are good and the banks of the creek are picturesque, fern-laden and full of birdlife. This track takes the walker to Hinces Saddle, from whence you can head north on another track to Mt Burrowa (4.5 km one way) or south to Black Mountain (2.5 km one way). The route, in either direction, is marked with orange arrows on the trees but the tracks are ill-defined and the walks are steep and rough. No water is available along the route so it is necessary to take your own and ensure adequate daylight is available. Snow and strong winds can be encountered in winter so be sure to take warm clothes and a waterproof jacket. The walk takes in many changes in altitude, aspect and vegetation, including peppermint and gum forest, blue gums in the moist gullies, alpine ash on the sheltered southern slopes and snow gum on the ridges.

Another separate approach to Mt Burrowa (1300 m above sea-level) is by following the Cudgewa North-Walwa Road north-west of the Falls Road turnoff for 7 km then turning left onto an earthern vehicle track which connects with the start of a walking track. This track ultimately heads south to Hinces Saddle but there is a turnoff on the right, before you reach the saddle, which takes you up Mt Burrowa. It is 7 km (one way) from the Cudgewa North-Walwa Rd to the top of the mountain.

It is possible to drive to the top of Black Mountain along the Black Mountain Track but the last 1.5 km are 4WD only. The Black Mountain Track runs off the Jephcott & Jewell Rd which, in turn, heads north off the Murray Valley Highway 46 km from Tintaldra (about 3 km north of Berringama). Hinces Saddle can also be reached by vehicle along the southern section of Hinces Creek Track (4WD only) which is also accessed via the Jephcott & Jewell Rd.

The northern section of the park is dominated by the red granite monolith known as Pine Mountain (1062 m) which is visible from a considerable distance. It affords exceptional views of the Snowy Mountains and the Upper Murray River and is covered with black cypress pine. There are numerous rare and endangered botanic species in this section of the park including the phantom wattle. Access is via Sandy Creek Rd (initially covered with bitumen) which heads off the Cudgewa North-Walwa Rd from a point 3 km south of Walwa. At the end of Sandy Creek Rd is the start of the Pine Mountain walking track which, at this stage, is rough and steep and not very well-defined although there are plans to develop a picnic site and improve the track. It is 12-km return but the less dedicated will be rewarded with an impressive experience of the mountain's atmosphere after only 1 km of walking.

If you want to hike and thus camp in the bush you must contact the ranger first, tel: (02) 6071 2602. Park information and pamphlets relating to its designated walking trails can be obtained from Parks Victoria, tel: 131 963.

Activities
The area has a reputation for trout and Murray cod and there is an angling club in town, tel: (02) 6077 9261. The river, and creeks, are also ideal for swimming and there are campsites available, tel: (02) 6077 9201. Companies hiring out canoes and mountain bikes and offering white-water rafting trips, guided bushwalking and trail riding can be found at Walwa, 24 km to the north-west. Walwa was the home of Australia's first breed of beef cattle, the Murray Grey, which was widely exported.

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