Is it safe to visit Kerala - and how do we get there form New Delhi?

FOLLOWING A CONFERENCE IN NEW DELHI IN MARCH MY LONDON-BASED BROTHER-IN-LAW HAS INVITED US TO JOIN HIM IN KERALA. CAN WE TRAVEL SAFELY AND EASILY IF WE GO INDEPENDENTLY? WHERE SHOULD WE GO? THE SMARTRAVELLER WEBSITE EXPRESSES CONCERN. D. SWIFT, ERSKINEVILLE NSW

I would have no hesitation recommending Kerala to anyone. The southern Indian state is a calmer, less chaotic version of the spirited subcontinent, with a landscape that owes more to the liquid green of south-east Asia than the dusty plains of the country's north. Christianity rules the hearts and minds of Kerala as much as Hinduism. What you might do is fly into Kochi, which you can do on a one-stop flight from Australia with Singapore Airlines, and spend a few days in Fort Cochin. As it has been for the past 1000 years, Fort Cochin is a spice port and a fascinating place, a languid, ramshackle melange of Arab, Portuguese, Dutch, Jewish and British cultural cross-currents. There are several heritage hotels in Fort Cochin and Le Colonial rates as a real find, a gorgeous, mostly-white mansion once owned by the Dutch governor, now converted to a stylish and very private little hotel. neemranahotels.com

You could also take a cruise along the backwaters in a converted rice barge. All but the most basic come with solar-heated showers while sleeker versions sprout multi-layered roofs, air conditioning and mezzanine decks with bamboo lounges. Most houseboat journeys begin in Alleppey, but one night will give you only a taste. Plan two or three nights to escape the crowds and sample life along the narrower and less visited waterways.Another option is the tea plantations and spice farms around Munnar, a few hours drive inland.

I like to travel independently in India. It's not expensive to hire a car and driver and use local guides to show you around.I've just come back from a self-funded trip to India organised by Magic Tours of India, magictoursofindia.com. Everything about this trip was five-star except for the price, truly outstanding in every way.

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