In a spin ... teacup ride at Disneyland, California.Credit: AFP
Depending on your view of the world's most famous rodent, a plan to visit Disneyland in California and Disney World in Florida, one after the other, is either a dream or a nightmare. Those in support of an oversized mousetrap would warn that dragging an adventurous seven-year-old and a jet-lagged nine-year-old across the US to do it is a sign of madness.
Separated by seven states and a minimum 4½-hour flight, the two massive recreation parks - or "resorts" as they now call them - ooze Disney's saccharine flavours but are vastly different in scope, size and subtlety.
For most Australians, 34-hectare Disneyland - the original Disney park in California - is the best choice because of the ease of access from Australia and because Los Angeles has a lot of the other attractions: Hollywood Boulevard, Universal Studios, Venice Beach and the houses and mansions of actors or singers.
Disney World, outside Orlando, is like its own city, with a multi-faceted transport system taking guests between the four theme parks, 32 hotels and resorts, two water parks and five golf courses. It is the most-visited recreational park in the world. One of its theme parks, the Magic Kingdom (which alone is bigger than Disneyland), copes with 17 million visitors a year.
But here's what you cannot glean from the brochures. Disneyland, created in 1955 and the only Disney Park designed and built directly under the supervision of Walt Disney, is intricately and beautifully detailed.
The gardens are brilliantly planned and immaculately maintained. When you wait in line for a ride (and you will), there are plenty of details to catch your attention. It may be hidden Mickey Mouse ears carved into wood panelling or the cobwebbed caves on the way into the Indiana Jones ride. Sure, it's still the plastic world of Disney but it's done well.
Not surprisingly, sprawl. Even something as simple as the themed bathrooms stands out at Disneyland. Around the Nemo ride is a nautical theme, a Mexican theme in parts of Frontierland and "princesses and knights" around the castle. At Disney World, the bathrooms often look like they've been done on the cheap.
In drizzle at Disneyland we soar with Dumbo the elephant, find Nemo the clownfish on a submarine voyage, spin on Mr Toad's Wild Ride and fly with Peter Pan. Fuelled by soft drinks and bad coffee in an increasing haze of snack stops and rides, we cling to roller coasters, Ferris wheels and merry-go-rounds and have a multitude of "interactive 3D experiences".
Then, after jetting across the country to Disney World, we throw ourselves into stunt shows, different cultures at the Epcot Centre, missions to Mars, fireworks displays and everything else we can squeeze in. Tired legs begin to notice how much larger Disney World is and how much further it is between many attractions.
Disneyland will never have the huge number and range of attractions of Disney World - so if it's sheer number of rides that interests you, head to the latter. You could spend a week at Disney World and still not do everything. However, since 2001, Disneyland Resort visitors have had easy access to Disney's California Adventure Park - its gates are opposite Disneyland's - adding a huge number of attractions, including the Hollywood Pictures Backlot.
Many of the premier rides and attractions are the same or similar at Disney World and Disneyland. They both have a Space Mountain (a roller coaster primarily in the dark), a 13-storey Tower of Terror, Splash Mountain, Pirates of the Caribbean ride, the excellent Soarin' Over California experience and the interactive 3D shoot-'em ride based on the characters in Toy Story. At both resorts you can take half-hour animation drawing classes or put your children into a Jedi training school, where they can take on Darth Vader.
Disneyland reported a 20 per cent increase in visitors over the Christmas period compared with the previous year. It's good news for shareholders but it underlines the fact that queues are a nuisance at both parks. However, both resorts have a "fastpass" system on many rides, allowing you to return at a later time and jump to the front of the queue. Regardless of the number of rides, shows and experiences, there are limits to how much Disney most can take.
Sure, we meet Americans who devote themselves to Mickey and his girlfriend, Minnie ("I've been coming every year since it opened," one southerner at Disney World brags), but by 4pm on day five, my youngsters press stop. "I've had enough of Disney World and Disneyland, Dad," one pleads. "Can't we just go and have a swim back at the hotel now?"
Ken Eastwood received complimentary passes to Disneyland and Disney World.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Qantas flies non-stop to Los Angeles from Melbourne and Sydney (14hr) for about $1580. United Airlines has a fare for about $1720 to Orlando, flying from Sydney to San Francisco (13hr 30min) and then to Orlando (5hr). Melbourne passengers pay about the same and transit in Sydney. Fares are low-season return, including tax. Australians must apply for US travel authorisation before departure. See https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov.
Disneyland adult three-day theme park ticket $US184 ($204), Disney World $US219. For many ticket options, see disneyland.disney.go.com and disneyworld.disney.go.com.
Disneyland's Grand Californian Hotel and Spa from $US336 a night for a family of four. See disneyland.disney.go.com/disneyland/en_US/hotels/landing?name=Grand CalifornianHotelLandingPage. Disney World's Caribbean Beach Resort from $US149 a night family of four. See http://disneyparks.disney.go.com/disneyparks /en_US/index?name=HomePage
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