Voluntourism in Fiji: Worth getting your hands dirty

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This was published 9 years ago

Voluntourism in Fiji: Worth getting your hands dirty

By andrea black
Beach at Outrigger on the Lagoon.

Beach at Outrigger on the Lagoon.Credit: Ross Eason

Sure, simply swinging on a seaside hammock hoisted between two palms while watching crabs skittle across the sand is one way to experience Fiji. Anyone who lands at Nadi International Airport and takes a transfer to a resort can expect carefree days of lolling about, of cooling spearmint scented hand towels, pools, cocktails and sunsets. But to get to the real essence of Fiji beyond a bobo massage and the friendly "bula" greeting it's worth seeking out a cultural connection to the land, really get your hands dirty.

So here I am with shovel in hand, toiling on the banks of the Sigatoka River on the Coral Coast. Down the steep embankment, in the water, Fijian women are diving for mussels, they head out with an inner tube which acts as the basket for their bounty. Further upstream, on the banks, subsistence farmers are harvesting yams. We're at the Conua District School where a community bure for the local village is being built. We're here to help. It's a programme instigated by Outrigger Resorts Area General Manager, Peter Hopgood.

Let's be clear from the outset, when I say helping, it's really just digging a few holes. The white gloves we are issued with – to prevent blisters – only turn slightly beige and we all have enough puff to sing songs - instigated by Kini Sarai, the activities manager at Outrigger - while digging. Later, when the structure gets off the ground, future volunteers can choose to do a spot of painting, maybe some sweeping up. We leave the technical work to the local experts. What the project does do is give visitors a vested interest in respectfully learning about village life in Fiji. Best is meeting the school children and learning their stories as well as the local community leaders.

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"It's really great for families to see their kids interact with the children here," says Kini who tells us that recently an Under 14 rugby team from Sydney's Newport helped build a covered path with their fathers and the Conua school children and their dads. He tells us that former Olympian swimmer, Shane Gould is a regular visitor, teaching local villagers how to swim.

Important in any form of voluntourism is knowing that the needs and wishes of the recipient community is the first priority. After an hour's digging and a tour of the school, a ceremonial reed mat is laid on the floor of a nearby hall where, hats off and shoes outside the door, we sit with village elders for the kava ceremony and a chat. The root is soaked in a large bowl, then sieved and served in coconut shells. Seconds and thirds of the tongue numbing concoction are passed around as well as stories about village life. We learn about crop harvesting and weather patterns. Afterwards we present the school principal with gifts for the students including textas, pencils, colouring books and balls, a small gesture for having us.

According to the International Voluntourism Guidelines, one of the most important questions anyone should ask before signing up to take part in a project is what percentage of the money they are paying is going into the project. At Outrigger adults pay $100fjd (A$60) and children aged 5 to 15 $60.00fjd (A$35) of which 30 per cent is retained to cover expenses whilst the other 70 per cent goes into the building fund to pay for materials. It's expected the community hall will be completed within 18 months.

Outrigger on the Lagoon from the sea.

Outrigger on the Lagoon from the sea.Credit: Ross Eason

Part of the day includes a picnic lunch at Tavuni Hill Fort, a semi-restored ancient Fijian fort and National Archeological Site overlooking the Sigatoka Valley. We're here on a special occasion, owner of Sigatoka River Safari, expat Australian Jay Whyte has chosen this as his wedding venue. Walking up toward the Latamai Scenic View, signs such as 'happily ever after starts here' mark the spectacular path to the ceremony. It's a fitting venue, as his enormously successful company uses the Sigatoka Valley - Fiji's 'salad bowl' – to take tourists up the waterway to local villages to learn of local customs and legends.

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After lunch, we set out of the village slowing down to make way for a group of teenagers brandishing their rugby team's flag while riding bareback on a herd of horses. Like them, we are heading to a local rugby match – a religion here – where Nadi are playing the local team, Nadroga.

A sign outside the gate of the sports field warns barrackers that under no circumstances can glass bottles be brought onto the grounds, or corn. Behind the fence, in the trees, the teens sit and watchLike them, their trusty steeds patiently wait. A pre-game brass band wearing traditional sulu - the male wraparound skirt with shark's-tooth hemline – is performing. We're in good company for our afternoon of spectating, Kini Sarai is an ex-Fiji International player. We sit in the stands sipping Fiji Bitter and cheer for the local team, who emerge victors on the day. Near the ground, villagers are stocking up on spices, fruits and vegetables from the valley's 'salad bowl' for their week ahead at the busy Sigatoka municipal market.

Conua Project.

Conua Project.Credit: andrea black

Tonight at the Outrigger on the Lagoon we will be sampling the best of the locally sourced cuisine. At Ivi, Chef Priya, who has been awarded best chef in Fiji, is preparing kokoda, diced raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut cream served in a coconut shell. In 2013, the restaurant - named after the 100-year-old tree that blooms adjacent – won the Best Fine Dining Restaurant in the annual AON Fiji Excellence in Tourism Awards. Here, in the thatched roof setting, the wooden French shutters allow the scent of lime and frangipani to waft in. Waiters - trained by the Australian Butler School - prepare crepe flambé tableside. At the next table, a troupe of singers serenade a couple for their wedding anniversary. It's also their last night at the resort so they get a back-to-back farewell song as well, a moving tradition here. Ivi offers a more modern take on Fijian cuisine. In the past, perceptions of local cuisine conjured up images of a lovo – a pit dug into the earth for smouldering hot rocks to steam through spiced taro, pig and reef fish wrapped in banana leaves. Ivi is bringing in more of the spices, serving aromatic curries influenced by the large Indian community whose members descended mostly from plantation workers imported by the British. If you're here on a Thursday you can take part in the popular cooking class. All Outrigger resorts are guided by an approach that embraces authentic cultural programs, traditions and amenities.

On this weekend, the resort is at 98 per cent capacity, yet you wouldn't know that there are nearly 750 guests here. It was one of the first resorts on the Coral Coast and is set on a large swathe of land. When the first wing was built, the Fijian edict was that the hotel be no higher than a coconut palm. Families are sitting by the pool, others are playing tennis, there's a wedding a day, yet, there is enough space for everyone to feel like they're staying in boutique accommodation. There are also adults-only designated areas including the Vahavu Bistro and a pool with a swim up bar. Here, bridesmaids and groomsmen mingle over 'Lost Bikini' cocktails. Next door to the resort is the Kula Eco Park, a 28-acre property set in three valleys showcasing flora and fauna. We felt like we had the park to ourselves in the two hours spent wandering the elevated walkway spying rainbow-feathered tropical birds, peacocks running wild, turtles and lizards. It's also the only captive breeding facility in Fiji for endangered Fiji indigenous species.

Up a steep hill via golf buggy is the Bebe Spa Sanctuary, wedding chapel and Bar Kalo Kalo which cleverly sits atop a camouflaged water tank. The spa lounge is full of robed couples enjoying a spot of pre-treatment tea and a spectacular view of the Coral Coast. Plonking down in one of the eight treatment rooms, I opt for the most Fijian treatment on the menu, a Fresh Sugar Cane Body Glow.

It's even quiet at the Sundowner Bar, the best vantage point to see the sunset. The warrior torches are lit and a local family is gathered on the ocean steps singing spirituals. It's Sunday. Holding hymn books, the younger kids at the front are getting restless. They squirm, yawn and poke each other but continue to sing sweet, goosebump-inducing harmonies. Their parents, standing behind singing the low notes, laugh and beam with pride.

The writer travelled as a guest of Outrigger Hotels and Resorts.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

fiji.travel

GETTING THERE

Jetstar, Virgin Australia and Fiji Airways fly to Nadi. http://www.jetstar.com, http://www.virginaustralia.com, http://www.fijiairways.com

STAYING THERE

Outrigger on the Lagoon Fiji has Stay Pay packages including Stay5Pay4, Stay7Pay5 and Stay10 Pay 7. Rates include welcome drink on arrival, Talei Butler Service for bures, suites and deluxe ocean view rooms, complimentary use of kayaks, paddleboards, snorkelling equipment, daily activities including aqua aerobics, torch lighting ceremony, Fijian dancing, choir, fire dancing, use of gymnasium, tennis courts, golf training facility, use of Kids Club - Little Riggers program 3 - 7 years, Beach Riggers program - 8 - 12 years and Teens Activity Program - 13 years + (a nominal fee applies).

Meal plans are available from $155 per day for adults and $78 for children - AUD$90 /$45 (A $FJD$30 (A$17) surcharge per person applies to Ivi Restaurant)

You can sign up to help build the community bure once at the resort.

outriggerfiji.com or reservations@outriggerfiji.com.fj

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