What the haka is this all about?

Next, to get a real hit of Maori culture, we drive three hours up to Waitangi in Northland (the pointy bit that sticks up above Auckland). It was here the first Maori migrants probably landed more than 700 years ago. In 1840 this was the site where Maori tribes agreed to terms with the British crown by signing the Treaty of Waitangi.

The treaty grounds, "the birthplace of our nation", are open to the public, free to Kiwis, though foreigners pay a toll plus extra fees for guides and performances. I opt for the Make My Day package, which includes a tour of the grounds and an interpretative walk through the surrounding nature.

When I arrive for the first tour of the morning, it turns out I'm the only customer, though other visitors join us later. Maori guide Vern tells me the story of the place. He explains how his ancestor, Kupe the explorer, first discovered the land of the long white cloud about 900AD and carried the story back to his native Hawaiki, thought to be near present-day Tahiti.

On the spreading lawns, with great views over the Bay of Islands and the Maori flag fluttering overhead, I learn of the negotiations between the Maori chiefs and British resident James Busby, a "man-o'-war without guns". Busby had a good rapport with the local people but when the first treaty was proposed, the chiefs "spat on it".

Then after days and nights of deliberations, they signed an amended version.

Decades of warfare followed. "Why did that happen?" I ask. "Aren't treaties supposed to stop that sort of thing?" It's a tough question and Vern doesn't have a satisfactory answer.

"It was a start and it showed our people had rights," he shrugs, "but some of them still aren't satisfied. They want more, even today."

At night on the treaty grounds, Culture North stages a two-hour drama and light show, dramatising New Zealand history. Sad to say, it's a bit of a let-down. Is it an immutable law of travel that cultural performances staged principally for tourists must leave us slightly underwhelmed? Or is it our own slightly lazy fault for not seeking out something with better artistic credentials?

After all, if we want to introduce visitors to Aboriginal culture, a performance by Bangarra Dance Theatre will be far more satisfying than some phoney corroboree featuring boomerang throwing and average didgeridoo playing.

The Culture North show begins well. The director gathers us at the gate to teach us the protocol. Three rather embarrassed older gentlemen are selected from the audience to be our "chiefs" to face down the challenge as we approach the meeting house.

Traditionally dressed warriors appear in the light to scream at us in Maori, threatening us with clubs and spears. They throw leaves on the ground and our chiefs, as instructed, step forward to pick them up. "Then stand your ground," warns the director. "A step back is a sign of weakness and taking your eye off the warrior shows disrespect."

It is a genuinely powerful theatrical moment. Once we have been accepted as friends, we remove our shoes and shuffle into the meeting house, adorned with beautiful carvings, to sit on none-too-comfortable plastic chairs.

The show begins - more hakas and poi dances but this time performed with variable concentration and skills. The linking dialogue, as a grandfather tells his granddaughter the potted history of their people, is stilted and awkwardly delivered and we even catch a performer stifling a yawn. None of which would matter too much, except we've paid the sort of money that would have bought a ticket to a terrific Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu concert.

We clap politely at the end; these people have no doubt done their best and other audience members seem more impressed than we are. They queue to be photographed with warriors brandishing weapons and sticking out their tongues.

Over the course of our stay in New Zealand we meet a number of international tourists who've been to various Maori hangis (traditional feasts of steamed food) and concerts and most have the same response - it was nice enough but a bit forced and plastic.

So we're left with as many questions as answers. How did a deeply spiritual people, so aware of their own history and proud of their culture, living on their own land and speaking their own language, become disadvantaged, despite having serious political clout in modern New Zealand?

To find the answers, we'll have to read some books. The Maori tourism experience has at least sparked our interest. It's a start.

TRIP NOTES

Getting there

Emirates flies from Sydney to Auckland return for about $500, including taxes.

Touring there

Performances at Auckland War Memorial Museum cost $25, including entry; see aucklandmuseum.com. Waitangi Treaty Grounds entry is $20; guided activities and shows cost an extra $12 each; see waitangi.net.nz. Cheaper packages available for groups and families. Culture North's Night Show costs $60 a head; see culturenorth.co.nz.