When size matters

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This was published 13 years ago

When size matters

Well proportioned ... Seabourn Sojourn in Sydney.

Well proportioned ... Seabourn Sojourn in Sydney.Credit: Janie Barrett

Julietta Jameson joins the glamour set aboard the 450-passenger Seabourn Sojourn.

At dock on a sweltering Sydney Sunday afternoon, the Seabourn Sojourn is a soothing sight. Her cool white bow and clean lines are gleaming crystalline, like an ice castle untouched by the heat.

The newest of luxury small-ship operator Seabourn's fleet is on a maiden around-the-world voyage that began in Los Angeles. I'm joining her for four nights, from Sydney to Adelaide via Melbourne, to see how she fares.

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Already, here at the dock, for me it's a little bit of love at first sight. As Katharine Hepburn said of the yacht the True Love in The Philadelphia Story, "She's yar, all right."

Well, with her aura of grand glamour, the Sojourn does make me feel like quoting Hepburn. I'm not even on board yet and I'm beginning to come over a bit old Hollywood, fancying myself a figment of the golden era, when travel was an event and grace and good manners flowed effortlessly.

This is precisely what is happening on land next to the Sojourn. Porters are whisking our luggage away and men in white gloves hand us champagne cocktails. My travelling companion, my sister, and I clink our glasses.

The Sojourn's marina.

The Sojourn's marina.

Then we spy them. They are heaving their luggage from the boot of a cab: the young woman with the tattooed bosom spilling out of a tight, sparkly top, her boyfriend's inked calves bulging from low-slung denim shorts.

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Another girl in laddered black tights and a dress that is losing its battle to cover her buttocks alights as well. The rosy glow of good cheer drains from my face.

As quickly as can be, however, and most politely indeed, the party is made aware they are at the wrong dock.

My relief is as swift. Elitist? Moi? Let's just say I have certain expectations of my time on the Seabourn Sojourn and hard-partying kids don't figure in them.

The Seabourn brochures I have seen are full of Ralph Lauren-clad grown-ups living the lovely life in elegant, understated luxury.

The list of the Seabourn's accolades is long and impressive. The company wins awards for things such as food and spa services and has notched up best small-ship gongs from the likes of Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and Porthole magazines.

The menu of available Seabourn voyages reads like Aristotle Onassis's travel journals and includes Greek islands inaccessible to larger ships, South American ports off the beaten track such as Chile's Puerto Montt or Uruguay's Montevideo, glamorous European and Pacific islands and some classic ports such as Fort Lauderdale, Southampton and Rome.

Port excursions are small and tailored, such as a private visit to the Peggy Guggenheim museum in Venice, or "caviar beach parties" that involve jumping on tenders to secluded island spots.

The cruise line's ships are small by today's standards. The fleet includes three 208-guest, 10,000-tonne ships and the two new vessels launched in 2009 and last year, Seabourn Odyssey and Sojourn, both 32,000 tonnes and capable of carrying 450 guests. (They'll be joined by a third in May.)

Consider the likes of Carnival Splendor, which carries 3000 passengers, and you get the perspective. Consider also that Seabourn has virtually one crew member for each guest and you get an idea of the level of service offered.

A classy-looking parade of passengers is ushered into the Grand Salon, the main showroom where sandwiches, cookies and champagne are flowing, glasses topped up deftly and frequently, a theme that continues throughout the cruise. (Wines and spirits are included in the fare.)

We are escorted by a crew member to our suite on the sixth deck. It has a big balcony with generously proportioned sun loungers, a full-sized sofa, a good-sized table and a sizeable sleeping area with two single beds.

Another bottle of champagne is awaiting on ice just in case we are still thirsty.

Two more surprises are in store: a roomy walk-in closet and a seriously big-for-a-ship bathroom with double-basin vanity, an almost regular-sized shower bay and a full-sized bath tub. And this is not top-of-the-line accommodation. This is a balcony suite; there are two, roomier and more luxurious classes of accommodation above it.

The decor, like the rest of the ship, is muted luxury; quality finishes, tactile fabrics and a colour palette that blends rather than offends.

Our housekeeper, Lisa, checks in to make sure everything is to our satisfaction. She is intelligent, friendly, efficient and attentive. She's all that and tipping is neither required nor expected. I get the sense - which is backed up by an off-the-record chat with another crew member - that Seabourn treats its staff well and so can recruit and hang on to good people.

Without exception throughout our four days at sea, the quality of the crew we come across is exemplary. While they are trained to a high level of service, they also express personality and engage with passengers.

For our sail out of Sydney Harbour we head to the Observation Bar, where most guests gather. The waiters keep up with cocktail and individual wine orders - no red or white generic here - and that's no mean feat. Everyone is in the mood for imbibing and everyone is ordering something different.

The age range seems to run from late 30s to 90s but at this sail-out soiree, the bonhomie transcends age. We're all conversing, laughing and making introductions.

We chat with a fabulous Californian duo, a retired dentist and wealthy widow, who met on a previous Seabourn round-the-world cruise and who are now a couple. We can't believe he's nearly 90; I put him more like 70. I guess that's what sea air and luxury do for you.

Then we meet an intriguing, petite, elderly woman in lace bell-bottoms who hails from the English countryside, where, the Americans tell us, she has a huge estate. She's sailing around the world, too.

Everyone disperses for dinner and this being a casual night, we opt for the more relaxed of the ship's four restaurants, The Colonnade. Themed to the Sydney visit, on the menu is surf 'n' turf, beef tenderloin and grilled lobster tail with a bearnaise sauce, or a grilled fillet of salmon.

The seas are high so we retire for the night and experience the greatest downfall of a smaller vessel: its susceptibility to the foibles of the ocean. It's a rough old night and the morning, while better, is still a rolling affair.

All the same, I hit the gym, which is a challenge with the instability of the sea. It's well-equipped with treadmills, weights and exercise machines.

Seabourn knows its market and it's a health-conscious one. There are plenty of people taking advantage of the equipment, just as the decks are buzzing with power walkers.

Breakfast becomes our favourite meal of the day on the Sojourn. The Colonnade has a lovely alfresco area that faces aft. It's sheltered and sunny and staffed by an attentive bunch of waiters who simply won't let you carry a plate from the buffet back to your table. They intercept and do it for you. There are a la carte options and decent espresso. And again there's great conversation.

Guests pass the mornings playing bridge in the card room, playing trivia in the Observation Bar, listening to lecturers in the Grand Salon and gathering for board games, social time or quiet reading in Seabourn Square.

The square is a book- and sofa-lined space with a central office area where guest services staff tend to business such as booking tours. There's a coffee bar where alcoholic drinks are served as well and some top-line shops selling jewellery, resort wear, leather goods and gifts.

The sun-lovers congregate around the eighth-deck pool (there are other pools and sun areas but this is the most popular), where a couple of masseuses provide complimentary treatments.

There's a simple barbecue lunch poolside, or another buffet in The Colonnade featuring a different daily roast and changing culinary themes. The quality is outstanding.

On formal evenings, guests gather in their finery and the women (sporting various interpretations of formal) are taken by the arm by more of those white-gloved young waiters and are served the likes of foie gras, "hand-dived king scallop" and rack of lamb.

Those who don't feel like getting out of their robe can have the meal served in their suites, course by course. (There is all-day room service, too.)

There's a further dining option, Restaurant 2, which is the most zanily decked-out of the Sojourn's spaces, with purple velvet banquettes and red cushions. It features a set degustation of surprising flavours and textures. It's fun, mostly successful and it's a clever addition with its daily changing menu, particularly for those on board for months.

The Sojourn may be small but it dedicates a fair amount of space to that favourite cruising pastime: spa activities. Spa at Seabourn includes a partner suite, steam room and saunas. There are relaxation areas, more sun decks and an extensive menu of treatments.

At night, there's dancing in the small, uptown New York-style club, a little gambling in the tiny casino and some cabaret in the Grand Salon.

And then everyone does it again. Or goes ashore. And some do it for 90 days straight.

My sister would still be on board if she could be. "This is the life I was born to live," she says wistfully, as we disembark in Adelaide.

If you're going to be born to a life at sea, this is a pretty good one. Yar, even.

Julietta Jameson travelled courtesy of Seabourn Sojourn.

FAST FACTS

Sojourn is one of six Seabourn ships sailing various cruises during 2011-12. Fares for Seabourn's 2011-12 program start from $US4099 ($4114) a person twin share for a seven-night Baltic sailing on Seabourn Sojourn, departing July 15. Australians can also join Seabourn Odyssey's 2012 60-day Stars of the Southern Cross cruise from $US9015 a person twin share for 26 nights from Sydney to Los Angeles, departing on February 9. Phone 13 24 02, see seabourn.com.

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