Where to eat in Napa Valley, California: Chef Ryan Squires

The star of Queensland's restaurant scene, Australian Ryan Squires is chef-owner of Esquire, Brisbane's only three-hatted restaurant. He cooked at both Urbane and the Buffalo Club in Brisbane, El Bulli in Spain, at noma in Copenhagen and with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in Napa Valley, an area he loves. See www.esquire.net.au.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN NAPA?

The problem with this area is that between Napa, Calistoga, Rutherford, St Helena and Yountville (all the tiny towns that make up the Napa Valley), there are so many brilliant tables, from casual grass settings at the likes of Taylor's Refresher at Ferry Building Marketplace to the world's best restaurant tables. However, every last day of the week, without hesitation, you would see me at the bar at Bar Bouchon, eating dozens of the most pristine local native micro oysters washed down with a glass of Maudite beer. See www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com; www.thomaskeller.com.

THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?

Benu in San Francisco. Corey Lee was my immediate boss while working in Napa, so it's always going to be interesting what chefs do after leaving a restaurant like The French Laundry. What he has created at Benu is a beautiful mix of great trendy northern Californian while keeping in touch with his heritage. See www.benusf.com.

WHAT IS THE NAPA VALLEY'S BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET?

Check out the gorgeous side roads that run across and up and down the valley from Napa and Calistoga, where you can find micro wineries and little rivers to relax next to.

PLACE TO GO ON A DAY OFF?

I loved to drive through beautiful redwood forest to Russian River and fish for white sturgeon, steelhead trout or Chinook salmon – meanwhile watching out for brown bears. I'd go to Bodega Bay to shuck some oysters, pull up a few deck chairs, open a cold riesling – done.