Where to eat in Oaxaca, Mexico: Chef Paul Wilson

Paul Wilson's past ventures include the Newmarket hotel and Acland St Cantina in Melbourne. He is now the creative director at several acclaimed restaurants including Icebergs in Bondi. The much-awarded chef and culinary ambassador's second book, Cantina: Recipes from a Mexican Kitchen, is out now ($49.95; hardiegrant.com.au).

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN OAXACA?

At a humble cantina called Itanoni, you will see the world's best chefs hiding in a corner, sampling Mexico's best masa delicacies – tacos, quesadillas, tamales, bocoles, sopes and other ancient snacks. The kitchen is supervised by Mexican elders, every dish and dough is made from scratch and cooked on an ancient comal in front of you and no one speaks English. You watch, taste and learn. The food is incredible. See itanoni.com.

THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?

At the Mercado 20 de noviembre you see so many unusual traditional foods. My discovery here was the carne asada, a feast for the senses, from its visual presentation to the enjoyment of snuggling up to the locals to eat it. The flavours are extraordinary, and for less than $5. See viveoaxaca.org.

PLACE TO GO ON YOUR DAY OFF?

Eighty per cent of Mexico's mezcal comes from Oaxaca as this is one of the few states where the blue agave is grown. Visiting a distillery to witness how this mysterious, ancient, organic spirit is manufactured will open your eyes to how resourceful the Mexicans are. Couple this with a tasting and tutorial from a mezcalaria.

FAVOURITE INDULGENCE IN OAXACA?