Where to eat in Sicily, Italy: Chef Joe Vargetta

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This was published 8 years ago

Where to eat in Sicily, Italy: Chef Joe Vargetta

By Juietta Jameson
Tuna carpaccio alla zingara with avocado puree, cucumber and fennel bread.

Tuna carpaccio alla zingara with avocado puree, cucumber and fennel bread.

Joe Vargetto honed his skills at Melbourne's iconic Florentino, with Michelin-starred star Gaultiero Marchesi in Northern Italy, and with French cuisine doyenne Philippe Mouchel, among others, before creating his own award-winning Melbourne restaurants. His latest is Mister Bianco in Kew. See misterbianco.com.au.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE TABLE IN SICILY?

One of my favourite Sicilian haunts is Ciccio Sultano, at Duomo in Ragusa, which is my father's home town. They offer exciting dishes like Ragusano​ cheese gnocchi with clams and these sensational pork and cuttlefish meatballs. But I look forward to visiting my aunts the most; they spoil me and I never cease to be overwhelmed by the amount of flavour in their slow-cooked dishes and local produce. See cicciosultano.it.

One of Joe Vargetto's favourite places is Taormina in Sicily.

One of Joe Vargetto's favourite places is Taormina in Sicily.

THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?

Recently, while I was walking around Modica admiring the breathtaking Baroque architecture that the town is famous for, I discovered some fantastic street food. My top recommendation is the panelle con pane – a bun with chickpea fritters and potato and mint croquettes inside. To find the best arancini in the country, go to Catania. There is actually a town called Misterbianco in Catania which is situated at the base of Mount Etna and used to be an old monastery – this is the town I named my restaurant after. See visitmodica.com; comune.misterbianco.ct.it

WHAT IS SICILY'S BEST KEPT FOOD SECRET?


The prickly pears (fruit of the cactus plant) are amazing when in season – the bigger the better. Be careful if you peel them yourself, as they are covered in small prickles, as the name suggests. As a seafood lover, I can't go past Sicilian sardines, especially when they butterfly them and stuff them with raisins, parsley, pistachio and breadcrumbs.

PLACE TO GO IN SICILY ON A DAY OFF?


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Taormina, is one of my favourite places on the planet, I love to drink a Campari out on the terrace in summer. They serve a great assortment of the freshest fish you can get, my favourites being swordfish and tuna, either smoked or in carpaccio style with traditional Sicilian accompaniments such as parsley, capers and lemons. See Taormina.it.

FAVOURITE INDULGENCE IN SICILY?


Ricotta gelati and brioche buns filled with gelati.

WHAT SHOULD A VISITOR AVOID FOOD-WISE IN SICILY?

Not so much what to avoid, as how to avoid that which should be. I always tell my friends to go where the locals go. Anywhere that is full of people from the neighborhood is a good bet. My tip – don't be afraid to venture in and listen to the rhythm and sounds of the restaurant and the language spoken. This will also give you a feel for the atmosphere.

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