24 Hours in ... Taipei

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This was published 15 years ago

24 Hours in ... Taipei

By Kristie Kellahan

Late-night jazz, early-morning congee as well as a romantic mountain top are some of the delights in Taiwan's capital city.

Ching-Yao Chen is a well-known Taiwanese baritone. He lives in Taipei and performs regularly at the National Recital Hall.

08:00

In a city of nearly six million people, timing is everything. Chen says 8am is a good time to start the day, as you will miss the early-morning office rush and still be on the road before the heat of the day sets in (Taiwan has a subtropical climate).

"Taipei is an unbelievably convenient city where you can find 24-hour convenience stores on almost every corner, selling nice, easy breakfast takeaways," Chen says. "Throughout Taiwan you'll also find east-west combination breakfast food stores. Pick up a sandwich or fried white radish patties to start the day: each has its own tradition and creative flavour."

10:00

If you visit on a weekend, next stop would be the Jien-guo Holiday Flower Market. "So many lovely things can be seen: bonsai, lotus plants, organic vegetables, miniature gardens," Chen says.

Nearby is the Jien-guo Weekend Jade Exhibition, the largest jade market in Asia. "You can buy jade here at different prices and levels of quality," Chen says. "Choose one for yourself to bring you good luck or as a gift. They make nice decorations for the home, too."

12:00

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Most Taiwanese workers will break for lunch between noon and 1pm. Adventurous diners will take Chen's suggestion to visit Fei-Chien Wu on Alley 121 near Chungshan Road, a local restaurant serving traditional dishes. "You must try the super-delicious sea eel rice, grilled in the traditional way over hot coals," he says. "The secret sauce will work up your appetite. Also, the grilled eel liver is absolutely mouthwatering."

14:30

During the autumn and winter months, many people like to visit the hot springs for relaxation and rejuvenation. "The area most well-known for its hot-spring culture is Xinbeito," Chen says. "Visiting the Beitou Hot Spring Museum can lead you back to the history of the hot-spring culture during the Japanese colonial period at the beginning of the 20th century. You can still feel the atmosphere from that glamorous period when important Japanese dignitaries would gather for hot-spring parties."

16:00

Taipei is located on the Danshui River, at the mouth of the Taiwan Strait. To escape the frenetic pace of the city, hop on the MRT (Metro) to Danshui station and take a stroll along the water to the end of the wharf.

"It's the perfect hour for watching the beautiful orange and purple colours across the sky and for breathing in the cool breeze," Chen says. "It's always my favourite spot, whether I'm in a happy or sad mood."

There's a cafe at the end of the jetty serving fresh juices and good coffee. "Sitting there, talking to friends or looking out to sea, is great therapy for life," Chen says.

18:30

Back in the CBD and the buzz at Shida Night Market is just starting to get louder.

"The wide variety of food here will tempt you to try many things," Chen says. "The most famous traditional street food in the night market is from a stall called Deng-Long Lu-Wei.

"Deng-Long means lantern. Lu-Wei refers to the method of cooking food including meat or fowl, stewed with soy sauce and strained before serving. People line up for metres for this food."

Pick up some douhua (tofu pudding) for dessert.

"It's served with sweet toppings like cooked peanuts, azuki beans, cooked oatmeal, tapioca, mung beans and a syrup flavoured with ginger or almond," Chen says. "In summer, douhua is served with crushed ice; in the winter, it is served warm."

21:30

Brown Sugar is a cool jazz club and restaurant featuring live music from international artists. "Taipei is really a jazzy kind of city," Chen says.

"Brown Sugar is a great spot to lose yourself in the music as musicians from all over the world deliver professional performances. Walk tall and dress nice to fit into this wonderland."

23:30

Calling all lovers. Taipei's most romantic canoodling spot is atop Yang-Ming Mountain. Just 10 kilometres north of the city centre, Chen says it's just the place to dance under the moonlight or simply count the stars in the sky. "This place will enchant you with its view of Taipei city by night," he says.

03:00

You can't help but love a city that never sleeps. Especially if you're a night owl and a book lover, in which case you're well catered for. "It's not only convenience stores that are open 24 hours a day in Taipei," Chen says. "You can also step into bookstores in the very, very early morning hours. Eslite bookstore is open 24 hours. Isn't it great!"

05:00

If book-browsing works up an early-morning appetite, Chen suggests a bowl of rice congee to fend off the hunger pangs. The porridge-like dish is a staple throughout Taiwan.

"You'll find many 24-hour restaurants on Fu Xin South Road serving white rice congee with plenty of small side dishes," he says. "It's nice to have a light snack after all the consumption of the day and night."

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