24 hours in Doha

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This was published 13 years ago

24 hours in Doha

Sands of time ... the Museum of Islamic Arts looks back to the city.

Sands of time ... the Museum of Islamic Arts looks back to the city.Credit: John Elk III/Lonely Planet

Penny Watson discovers labyrinthine souks, full mezze plates and high-end shopping in the waterside city.

Doha, the glistening, skyscraper-studded capital in the sand-hewn Arabic emirate, Qatar, is an ideal stopover city. Merging Arab culture and tradition with contemporary lifestyle, the city is small enough to size up in a matter of days and big enough to entertain in the process. And with a focus on the five-star experience, a short stay allows for some well-deserved luxury without putting too much strain on the budget.

9am Wake amid the old-world opulence of the Grand Hyatt, the latest addition to the city's luxury hotel line-up. This one has been lavishly designed in the tradition of an emir's palace, with soaring geometric ceilings, carved woodwork and a museum's worth of teapots, water urns, copper trays and other artefacts referencing traditional Islamic art. The exterior echoes fortress architecture typical of a desert landscape and covers a vast area, with palm trees, private courtyards, swimming pools and water features. It has a private beach complete with deckchairs and sun umbrellas. Have a dip before heading out into the heat.

Grand Hyatt, West Bay Lagoon, rooms from 900 riyals ($270), see www.doha.grand.hyatt.com.

10am Private hotel cars are common in Doha but hailing a local turquoise-coloured taxi, known as a Karwa, will save cash in a city where public transport is limited. Head to Souq Waqif, Doha's ''standing market'', redeveloped in 2004 under the auspices of Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al Thani. Fear not, this isn't a tourist trap. Based on old plans, maps and the memories of those who lived in the original souq, Doha's heartbeat is equally the haunt of locals as visitors. Within the maze of traditional architecture (built to withstand desert heat that commonly reaches 45 degrees in summer) are artisan and craft shops; large wholesale markets selling hessian bags brimming with beans, lentils, rice and dried fruit; tailors touting traditional Qatari dress; restaurants; and open-air stalls for vendors with a souvenir bent. In the bird market, crepes laden with creamy cheese and honey are Doha's cheapest breakfast, costing just four riyals.

11.30am Within walking distance of Souq Waqif and gracing the Doha Bay waterfront is the outstanding Museum of Islamic Arts, popular as much for its architecture as its art. Pritzker Prize laureate and architect of Paris's Louvre Pyramid, I.M. Pei, travelled the Arab world for inspiration and found it in the ablutions fountain in the Mosque Ahmed ibn Tulun in Cairo. The building's cubist geometry upholds the essence of Islamic architecture, catching the sun and playing optical games with its angular shadows. Tiptoe around exhibition pieces that date back as far as the seventh century or, for a less cerebral approach, sit in the magnificent five-storey atrium and enjoy a spectacular view across Doha Bay to the city.

Museum of Islamic Arts, the Corniche, +974 422 4444, see www.mia.org.qa.

1.30pm Time for a walk around the Corniche, Doha's proud 7½-kilometre promenade, which is marked at one end by the museum and at the other by the city. This manicured green strip with adjoining parkland and an avenue of palms is an oasis for locals, who gather on weekends to picnic, exercise, play sport, eat and talk. It's also a prime spot to take in the ultra-modern city skyscrapers looming in the foreground. For lunch, Balhambar Restaurant on the harbour is known for its Qatari cuisine (which is not a far cry from the type of delights to be found in Lebanon). And don't forget, you won't get a beer here. Because Qatar is an Islamic country, Doha's drinking establishments take a discreet position in the city's Western hotels.

2pm If you've walked the length of the Corniche, opt to take a boat back. Doha's dhows, original wooden craft that once served the fishing and pearling industries, now provide a means for tourists to joyride around the harbour. It shouldn't cost more than 80 riyals for a solo trip.

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3pm From the harbour, navigate past the giant pearl back to Souq Waqif to partake in a lively Middle Eastern custom. While some folk will be tucking into mezze plates laden with hummus, olives, stuffed vine leaves and pita bread, others will be ordering cups of thick, silty Turkish coffee to be enjoyed with a shisha pipe. The long smoke tendrils emanating from the flavoured tobacco and molasses concoction scent the air, providing patrons with an atmosphere ideal for socialising. Simply choose a flavour and the waiter will deliver an ornate silver pipe, individual mouthpieces and the foil-wrapped flavour of your liking.

4.30pm In a wealthy city such as Doha, shopping comes second only to, well, not much. Malls abound with international franchises and brands but for novelty factor, Villaggio has an indoor canal, a la Las Vegas, on which shoppers can take a gondola ride. For a higher-end shopping experience, the Pearl-Qatar is Doha's latest take on luxury living and lifestyle. Built on reclaimed land, the island is touted as Riviera Arabia, its central Porto Arabia lined with luxury cruisers and a promenade of designer shops stretching 2½ kilometres. Its half-finished status means a visit can be like walking through a five-star ghost town but the snapshot of an island being built from the ground - or the seabed - up makes a visit even more worthwhile.

7.30pm If the Pearl takes your fancy, stay on for dinner at Le Relais de l'Entrecote (+974 953 876), one of a boutique chain of French steakhouses that have gained a following for their distinctive menus. Diners are offered just one entree and one main - steak served with the restaurant's famed secret butter and herb sauce. Alternatively, Sky View, an outdoor bar on top of the La Cigale Hotel (60 Suhaim Bin Hamad Street, Al Sadd Area; +974 428 8888, lacigalehotel.com) floats above Doha's bright lights and boat-speckled harbour. Pop in for a snack and a sundowner and don't forget - passports are a requirement when drinking alcohol in Doha.

10pm Still going? Despite the rigid drinking rules, it is possible to party into the wee hours at Doha Marriott's Pearl Lounge, a chic nightspot providing all the right ingredients for a hangover. Just don't miss the plane.

Doha Marriott, Ras Abu Aboud Street; see www.marriott.com.

Penny Watson travelled courtesy of Qatar Airways.

Qatar Airways flies from Melbourne and Sydney to Doha (14hr) for about $2385 low-season return including tax. Royal Jordanian has good fares flying a partner airline to Asia, then Royal Jordanian. Australian passport-holders receive a tourist visa on arrival for up to 14 days for 110 riyals.

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