From his early morning caffeine fix through to stumps, Mark Chipperfield finds much to enjoy in this elegant, laid-back capital.
Adelaide is perhaps Australia's most misunderstood capital city – either seen as a bastion of conservatism or as a mecca for artists, gourmands, wine-lovers and other hedonists.
Either way, the visitor will find much to enjoy in and around this elegant, compact and supremely laid-back city, which can easily be explored on foot or by hopping on a tram to the seaside suburb of Glenelg – although a hire car is handy if you want to explore the nearby Adelaide Hills.
8am
Adelaidians know their coffee, so you won't have to go far for a caffeine fix. Felici (Italian for happiness) Espresso Bar is a funky little cafe serving delicious snacks, salads, smoothies and hearty breakfasts (try the scrambled egg, spinach, prosciutto and provolone cheese in a ciabatta roll, $9.50) at the groovy end of Rundle Street. Diners eat at a long communal bench and there are daily newspapers for non-texting types.
Felici, 261 Rundle Street, city, (08) 8223 3389, felici.com.au. Open daily.
9am
No trip to the southern capital is complete without spending at least a few minutes (but you'll want to stay longer) at Adelaide's bustling Central Market. Now celebrating 140 years of continuous operation, the covered market is wedged between Gouger and Grote streets – an easy stroll from the centre of town. You'll find just about every type of produce here – from local olive oil and exotic mushrooms, smallgoods (kranski, fritz and mettwurst) and freshly baked bread to organic coffees. Excellent guided tours are available (adult cost: $52).
Adelaide Central Market, Gouger Street, city, (08) 8203 2703, adelaidecentralmarket.com.au. Open Tuesday to Saturday.
10.30am
Just around the corner is the JamFactory, an institution of quite a different kind. The centre has been exhibiting Adelaide's most exciting ceramics, furniture, glass and other contemporary craft work for more than 30 years. The JamFactory stages regular exhibitions of emerging artists and craft workshops, while the shop is a great place to pick up that tasteful souvenir.
JamFactory, 19 Morphett Street, city, (08) 8410 0727, jamfactory.com.au. Open 10am-5pm Monday to Saturday and 1pm-5pm Sundays.
11.30am
For cricket lovers around the globe the Bradman Collection Museum, housed at the Adelaide Oval, is regarded as a sacred site. The collection brings together an astonishing collection of memorabilia personally given to the people of South Australia by Sir Donald Bradman – including 52 scrapbooks documenting his playing career. The exhibits include photographs, menus, balls, trophies, items of clothing and telegrams.
The Bradman Collection, Adelaide Oval, North Adelaide, (08) 8300 3800, cricketsa.com.au. Open Monday to Friday, 9.30am-4.30pm; admission is free.
12.30pm
As lunchtime approaches, the visitor is faced with the sternest challenge of the day. Where to eat? One option is to follow the locals to Cafe Mykonos, a family-owned Greek restaurant in North Adelaide, famous for its seafood and chargrilled meat platters, moussaka and Greek desserts. Mains $20-$29. For something a little more formal book a table at Enoteca. The new-look menu is the talk of the town.
Cafe Mykonos, Shop 9/157 O'Connell Street, North Adelaide, (08) 8367 0633. Enoteca, 262 Carrington Street, city, (08) 8227 0766, enotecacucina.com.au. Open for lunch Wednesday to Friday.
2pm
Sadly, most people confuse the Adelaide Hills with the tourist honey pot of Hahndorf with its German-style country inns, strudel bakeries and knick-knack shops. For a different take on this region, follow Greenhill Road from the city – you'll discover pristine countryside, quaint villages and, of course, some of Australia's finest cool-climate wineries. Starting point for most tours is the Mount Lofty lookout, which offers bracing views over the plains to Adelaide. Lovers of the grape will be spoilt for choice. There are more than 30 vineyards to visit, including Shaw & Smith, Nepenthe and the Hahndorf Hill Winery, many with their own restaurants. Pick up a vineyard map along the way.
Mount Lofty Summit, Mount Lofty Summit Road, Crafers, (08) 8370 1054, mtloftysummit.com. Open daily, 9am-5pm.
4.30pm
On the return leg to the Torrens you might just have time to visit another great Adelaide institution: the R.M. Williams Outback Heritage Museum. Until 1972 this site in Percy Street was the engine-room of a retail empire. Today it is dedicated to Reginald Murray Williams, inventor of the world's most famous elastic-sided boot. The museum has a huge and often eccentric collection of artefacts, while the retail space sells a full range of R.M. Williams merchandise.
R.M. Williams Outback Heritage Museum, 5 Percy Street, Prospect, (08) 8344 8191, rmwilliams.com.au. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 5.30pm and 9am to 4pm Saturday.
8pm
As darkness falls all thoughts turn to ... dinner. A personal favourite is the Sparrow Kitchen & Bar in North Adelaide, a sociable eatery serving everything from tapas to gourmet pizzas, local seafood and prime South Australian meat, such as Coorong Angus Sirloin ($32), and wicked desserts (try the treacle tart and goat's cheese ice-cream, $7.50). Alternatively, sit at the bar with a glass of sherry and a few slices of "reserva" jamon ($18). For something a little more intimate check out the Thali Room, a dimly lit space serving Indian curried snacks (or thalis). Or pop next door to British India for something more substantial from the Anglo-Indian menu, such as braised beef & rhubarb ($22) or Rogan Josh ($17).
Sparrow Kitchen & Bar, 10 O'Connell Street, North Adelaide, (08) 8267 2444, sparrowkitchenandbar.com.au. Open for lunch and dinner.
British India, 270-276 Morphett Street, city, (08) 8212 2411, britishindia.net.au. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, from 6pm.
Mark Chipperfield travelled courtesy of South Australian Tourism.
Qantas has regular flights from Sydney to Adelaide from $258 (return). Phone 13 13 13 or see qantas.com.au.
The Clarion Hotel Soho has modern studios and suites, starting at $195 a night. Phone (08) 8412 5600 or see clarionhotelsoho.com.au.
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