A bolthole for bon vivants in Pokolbin

Superb food joins with fine wine and gracious surrounds at an estate dedicated to enjoyment, writes Sue Bennett.

History sometimes springs to life when you least expect it. Here I am, lying on a raised, king-size bed, supported by a swag of embroidered cushions, and I am suddenly transported back to the 12th century; to the time of Eleanor of Aquitaine, a ruler in her own right and, through marriages, Queen of France and later, of England.

I'm a million miles from that time and place but a recent reading of her biography and, bizarre as it may sound, this bedroom in the Hunter Valley turns my mind to the palaces she occupied.

There's a large tapestry, surrounded by smooth yet rough-hewn wood, on the wall behind my head. Lights are suspended from jutting beams beneath the vaulted roof. The tiled floor is dressed with rugs, tasselled cushions sit on the sofa and window seat, antiques abound and prints dress the thick, rendered walls. It is late afternoon on a cold winter's day and the large room's subdued lighting is enhanced by the warm glow from an open fireplace alive with burning logs.

Such a flight of historical fantasy is one thing but we are grateful to move forward nine centuries when it comes to central heating and a beautiful white-tiled bathroom with spa bath, walk-in shower, Moulton and Brown products and hot water at the turn of a tap.

Each of Tower Lodge's 12 suites bear the indelible hallmark of their creator, the late Len Evans. The hotel, close to the centre of Pokolbin, was the brainchild of this winemaker, judge and pioneer but, most of all, bon vivant.

Evans, who died four years ago, knew how to enjoy himself and today's visitors to the Relais & Chateaux-registered hotel would be hard-pressed not to do likewise.

There are the touches you would expect at this level of service - from 24-hour room service (afternoon tea in front of your fire? No problem) to early evening, complimentary cocktails in the vast main lodge or more intimate library.

Tower Lodge opened in 2000 but it took nine years before a restaurant opened on the premises. Nine is its theme and name. Off the main lounge, it's nine feet and nine steps below ground; the nine-course degustation menu changes nine times during the year.

Our "deep winter" menu includes a dish of venison loin, two perfectly cooked pieces served with home-made sauerkraut, baby vegetables and raisins, which add a touch of sweetness. Deboned pigeon is accompanied by crushed potato flecked with bacon and an outstanding port wine sauce.

I can still taste the light-as-air sweet carrot mousse served alongside a steamed jewfish fillet and the pure flavour of the pear sorbet, served in a cloud of dry ice.

The meal continued with a cheese course, steamed chocolate pudding and petit fours.

The menu is traditional - chef Daniel Hunt serves some wonderful sauces - with a touch of the modern molecular. But pre-writing a year's menus (diners are given a keepsake menu brochure) has its challenges, not least the unpredictability of seasonal food. So, the mushroom consomme is a delight but the accompanying highlight of truffle - shaved and served in pasta - is a disappointment because the truffle is immature and dull.

Nine may seem claustrophobic but there are 12 people dining this night and there is a happy hum about the place. Dinner is served on Friday and Saturday nights (a hefty $180 a person, $250 with wines).

On other nights, nearby Roberts restaurant is an option. It is owned by the same group as Tower Lodge and the cellar door and winery, Tower Estate.

The controlling shareholders include people who joined Evans at the outset - celebrity chef Rick Stein and the owner of R. M. Williams, Ken Cowley, are among their number.

The enclave, on the corner of Broke and Halls roads, includes Roberts.

At Tower Lodge, 12 new suites are to be built. Present accommodation ranges from the freestanding chairman's suite with separate sitting room; Oriental suite; deluxe and lodge rooms. New accommodation will be on the lines of the chairman's suite. "They will have absolutely everything you expect in the best hotels and no one suite will be the same," says the general manager, Andreas Breitfuss. "I want to do what the New Zealand lodges do but do it better."

He's introduced warm-weather dining options, too, so a table can be set on the Tower roof, by the pool or beneath the trees. But at this time of year, I'm just happy to take tea in front of a fire.

The writer was a guest of Tower Lodge.

Pokolbin
Trip notes
Where Tower Lodge, Halls Road, Pokolbin. (02) 9299 2280, www.towerlodge.com.au.
Getting there It's about three hours' drive from Sydney. Take the F3 to the Cessnock exit, then drive through Cessnock and follow signs to Pokolbin. A slightly longer, but more scenic, journey is via Wollombi Road, leaving the F3 at the Peats Ridge exit and following signs to Wollombi, then Broke, turning right to Pokolbin.
How much A lodge room is from $710 a night for two.
Style statement Indulgence on a grand scale with great attention to detail.
Perfect For anyone who loves luxury and individuality.
Take the kids? No, it's child-free.
Don't forget A good book. If you have a great hotel room, enjoy it.
A shame about The subdued lighting when reading. A good lamp would solve it.
Kudos Arguably the most luxurious accommodation in the Hunter.