Locked up in history ... the high granite walls of the notorious Beechworth Gaol.
Sue Wallace takes a guided tour of Beechworth Gaol, once the "home" of Ned Kelly, Harry Power and Carl Williams.
A shiver runs down my back as I stand in the cell where Ellen Kelly and her four-day-old daughter, Alice, were locked up in Beechworth's notorious gaol. The feisty mother of bushranger Ned Kelly was a prisoner in the historic gaol after she and two friends were sentenced for attacking Constable Alexander Fitzpatrick with a "shovel or a skillet" in 1878.
In defence, the Kelly family claimed they were protecting a young girl, Kate, from the lecherous Fitzpatrick. The tiny cell was home to Ellen and her baby for three months and, as a concession, authorities gave her the use of a cell with a door directly to the exercise yard, to take the baby outside for fresh air.
For the first time in 156 years, the secrets of the Beechworth Gaol have been unlocked and curious visitors and locals are lining up for the 60-minute tours that reveal tales of violence, executions and escapes.
"I'm sure everyone who has ever driven past Beechworth Gaol's high granite stone walls and stately facade has wondered what it is like inside - and now there is the chance to have a look," Beechworth Gaol tour guide Darren Sutton says.
Dressed in a warden's uniform, Sutton delivers an insight into the early days of the gaol, which opened in 1860 and closed in 2004, when 100 medium-security prisoners were moved to other prisons.
Not surprisingly, the most popular lock-up is where Ned Kelly served time, cell 101.
A frequent visitor - he was imprisoned three times - his first stay was in 1870 after an assault conviction then again in 1871 for horse stealing. Finally, he stayed in 1880 during his committal trial for murder, before being sent to Melbourne for trial and eventual execution.
Our tour starts with a "dressing down" by our warden - just like prisoners would have received - and we are marched into the prisoner arrival reception area dating from 1986. Here we are shown where modern-day prisoners were stripped, searched, measured and photographed.
We enter the exercise yard and are instructed to line up for muster just like the prisoners had to - one prisoner per square printed on the asphalt. Next, we climb the steep stairs to the guard tower - one of four. "The guard would enter through a door on the outside of the building, preventing prisoners from entering the tower," Sutton says. From the tower you can see the grounds where honey-coloured granite was once quarried and used for many of Beechworth's buildings.
Sutton tells of the gaol's rich history.
When it opened in 1860 as a general receiving prison, there were only a few staff - a gaoler, a matron, seven male turnkeys and one female warden. The first governor was John Buckley Castieau, who later left to become governor of Melbourne's Pentridge Prison in 1869.
In the 1860s and 1870s crimes such as stealing gold, embezzlement, assault and robbery, receiving stolen goods, cattle and horse stealing incurred sentences of between one and four years of hard labour. Indecent assault, arson and manslaughter incurred sentences of five to seven years and prisoners were put to work building roads or assigned hard labour. Those convicted of rape were sentenced to death.
Inside the gaol, it's freezing.
"Even on a hot day, the temperature is cool," says Sutton, who points out the walls are so thick no outside sound could penetrate.
As we walk along the upstairs landing we stop in front of the gallows where eight men lost their lives. Until 1865, prisoners sentenced to death were sent to Melbourne but from 1865 until 1881 there were eight executions carried out here.
Just a few metres away from the gallows is cell 104, which was reserved for condemned prisoners. "It's larger than other cells because there had to be room for the warden and a minister and executioner, who tied the victim up tightly," Sutton says. "Also, a few days before execution, the prisoner would be visited by family members in the presence of their warden."
Official ticket-holding witnesses were invited to watch the hangings. Notorious past inmates include bushranger Harry Power (who was suspected of being a role model for Kelly) and, more recently, Carl Williams.
As for prison escapes, there have been more than 50 over the years, including eight prisoners who fled at midnight on July 28, 1947. They overpowered a warden and locked him in a cell.
"The escape wasn't discovered for seven hours and is still regarded as one of Victoria's biggest breakouts, even though by August 1 six of the escapees were recaptured," Sutton says.
We also visit the modern solitary cells, the kitchen yard used originally for kitchen deliveries, the original solitary exercise area and burial yard. A swimming pool was installed in 1958.
The eight men executed in Beechworth Gaol are buried adjacent to the wall, on the west side of the exercise yard.
Sutton says the gaol is an eerie place at times with loads of history and maybe even a few ghosts. "There have been a few strange things happen, like odd noises in the cells and beds turned up on end when no one has been about," he says.
"But it's the lure of history and the curiosity factor that attracts people to the gaol and most are amazed at what prisoners endured."
As the gates close behind us I can't help thinking - if only those walls could talk.
Sue Wallace was a guest of North East Victoria Tourism
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Beechworth is about 300 kilometres north of Melbourne, travel on the Hume Freeway and turn off at Wangaratta.
Beechworth Gaol tours are held Wednesday to Sunday and public holidays from 10am. Saturday evening tours start from 6pm. Day tours are $22.50 for adults, $17.50 for children 16 and under, $75 for a family of two adults and up to three children. Evening tours are $25 for adults, $20 for children 16 and under and $80 for a family. Phone 1300 774 766, see beechworthgaol.com.au.
Staying there
Albertines Beechworth at 12 Albert Road has five luxury suites. Set in landscaped gardens, it's a short walk from cafes and boutiques. Weekends and public holidays $270 per double (one-night stay) and $510 per double (two-night stay). See albertinesbeechworth.com.au.
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