This was published 4 years ago
Which cruise ships go to Antarctica? A travel guide to Earth's final frontier
By David McGonigal
Antarctica, a continent covered in pure ice and populated by penguins, is truly the planet's outstanding last frontier. Its isolated position and the fact that it's surrounded by savage oceans has historically protected it from all but the most intrepid visitors.
But that remoteness is rapidly changing. The summer of 2000 was the first season in which Antarctica had more than 10,000 visitors. Indeed, when I first visited in 1995 (on an assignment for an early incarnation of this title) I was one of less than 100,000 people known to ever have seen this mystical land of ice and heroics.
Last summer - almost 25 years later - more than 56,000 people visited the continent, including some 10,000 on large cruise ships not capable of landing passengers. The great majority of visitors (98 per cent) travelled from South America to the Antarctic Peninsula. It's estimated that this coming summer will see almost 80,000 Antarctic visitors and the following summer's visitation may exceed 100,000.
Scenic Eclipse.Credit:
The nature of Antarctic tourism has evolved greatly, too. When Lars-Eric Lindblad, the late pioneering explorer and entrepreneur, took the first 57 tourists to Antarctica in 1966 it was on a basic Argentine navy vessel. The millennium boom was largely on-board Russian research vessels that were comfortable but not luxurious.
Today there are more than 40 new expedition vessels either being built, on the drawing boards, or sailing to Antarctica for their first season that offer unprecedented levels of technology and luxury. Among those new builds coming to Antarctica is Seabourn Venture, which launches in 2021, and Viking has its first expedition vessels on the way. There's also a clear shift to new ships with excellent ice performance, Oceanwide Hondius and Antarctica XXI's MV Magellan Explorer reflecting that trend
What does this all mean for prospective visitors? Well, the food on the ships is much better than the past when providers in Ushuaia, Argentina, the world's southernmost city and the nearest departure point to Antarctica, would deliver crates of soggy lettuces to the dock. Communal bathrooms have given way to marble ensuites and ships use cleaner fuel.
MS Roald Amundsen.
In 2000, 21 ships and yachts landed about 14,000 passengers on Antarctica. This year it's expected that 63 vessels will land more than 59,000 visitors. Much of the Peninsula foreshore comprises sheer cliff faces and towering glaciers with limited landing spots.
Fortunately, there's a system in place to allocate who goes where. Antarctica is controlled by all the nations who have signed on to the Antarctic Treaty. When Antarctic tourism first took off in the early 1990s the operators formed the self-regulating International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO).
Each ship comes to Antarctica with each excursion of season pre-booked. Once a ship has reserved a spot another can't book it. However, wind, waves and ice can force a change of plans on the day. Flexibility is lost when every site is booked. And "climate change is giving us more windy days with stronger winds," a veteran polar captain told me.
Kayaking in Antarctica between icebergs.Credit: iStock
Darrel Day, the owner and skipper of the yacht Spirit of Sydney, has taken passengers to Antarctica since 1999. "Yachts work outside the IAATO ship scheduler but it's impossible to miss the growth in ship traffic. Anchored at a popular site like Cuverville Island we may see three ships, one after the other, disembarking at that one landing beach."
Several solutions have been suggested, from limiting ships to a single landing each day to allocating a points system to the most popular sites.
Will more tourism affect wildlife? Fortunately, the Antarctic Treaty administration issues detailed guidelines for most sites to minimise impact by stating where and when you can go and how many ships of what size can visit each day.
A seal rests on an iceberg.Credit: iStock
There's an overriding rule that a maximum of 100 passengers are allowed ashore at one time, plus expedition staff. Ships carrying more than 200 passengers are restricted to certain sites and ships with more than 500 passengers are not permitted to make landings at all.
At a time when polar ships are getting bigger, ships carrying fewer that 100 guests will become the new luxury as everyone will be allowed ashore at once, rather than waiting on staggered landing times.
Every visit to Antarctica is special. Wild and untamed it is so remarkable that, in more than 100 voyages south, I've never met anyone who says they weren't changed by it. From your first iceberg to sailing glaciers-lined bay and being greeted ashore by penguins, it's an unmatched experience. To be in a small rubber boat when a whale surfaces a metre away is unforgettable.
Antarctica: The planet's outstanding last frontier.Credit: iStock
No doubt, those who have already been there will regard themselves as pioneers to dismiss the greater comfort and technological offerings of new generation vessels.
The Antarctic is too expansive and the weather too fickle to ever be tamed. The rapidly growing number of visitors will have to be managed and, as yet, no one has said how that will be achieved. Now really is the time go and, to that end, we provide this detailed guide to how to make it a reality.
David McGonigal, the author of several books on Antarctica, is a polar veteran who has worked as an Antarctic Expedition Leader for more than 20 years and over 100 voyages. He has worked with Peregrine, Quark and One Ocean Expeditions.
THE NEW GENERATION SHIPS
SCENIC ECLIPSE, SCENIC CRUISES
THE SHIP
The much-anticipated launch of Scenic Luxury Cruises' Scenic Eclipse ushers in a new era of polar cruising. It will be followed by Scenic Eclipse 2.
MAXIMUM PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
200
LAUNCHED
August 15, 2019
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Azipod propulsion system resulting in the lowest noise levels of any available system.
WHERE IT GOES
Antarctic Peninsula, Falklands, South Georgia. Also voyages from Lima and Valparaiso that include the Chilean fiords and Antarctica.
ON THE SHIP
The Scenic Eclipse has an almost 1:1 staff-to-guest ratio and 114 spacious, elegant suites. Up to 10 dining options provide a multicultural culinary adventure and Senses Spa is expansive. The Discovery Team is a multi-disciplinary group of experts that reveal Antarctic to you.
OFF THE SHIP
Excursions include exploratory guided tours on board Zodiacs and tandem kayaks.
DON'T MISS
The Scenic Eclipse is equipped with sophisticated helicopters and a six-person submarine that can descend to 300 metres.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $17,660 a person. See scenic.com.au
HANSEATIC INSPIRATION, HAPAG LLOYD CRUISES
THE SHIP
Long the standard setters for high-end Antarctic cruising, Hapag Lloyd Cruises reaches new heights.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
199
LAUNCHED
October 2019
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Two propellers, 4 MGO (Marine Gas Oil) diesel engines. Marine Gas Oil is cleaner and contains less sulphur than the IFO (Intermediate Fuel Oil) that was once used.
WHERE IT GOES
From Ushuaia to Antarctic Peninsula; Falklands, and South Georgia. Also has voyages: Ushuaia to Cape Town via South Georgia, 20 days in February 2021 and semi Circumnavigation Antarctica, Ushuaia to Bluff, 36 days in February 2022.
ON THE SHIP
Berlitz Guide to Cruising 2020 rates the identical German-language-only HANSEATIC Nature as 5-star. There's lots of open deck space, a convenient elevated bow walkway and two retractable glass floor balconies on Deck 8. There are three restaurants, a pool with retractable roof, and no sharp edges on any furniture. Highly qualified lecturers come from universities and institutions around the world.
OFF THE SHIP
There are enough Zodiacs (including two electronic ones) to get everyone off the ship so one group is ashore while the other cruises.
DON'T MISS
The interior design sets new standards for all cruise ships, not just expedition vessels.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $16,560 (Euro 10,250) a person (single surcharge of only 20 per cent on all cruises to Antarctica). See hl-cruises.com or landmarktravel.com.au
MS ROALD AMUNDSEN, HURTIGRUTEN
THE SHIP
Hurtigruten is pushing the technological envelope with new generation hybrid-powered vessels to reduce fuel usage and CO2 emissions. They can also run on battery power for a limited time. MS Fridtjof Nansen will launch in 2020 and a third hybrid sister ship in 2021.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
500
LAUNCHED
July 2019
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Hybrid battery engines
WHERE IT GOES
From Punta Arenas through the Chilean fiords and Cape Horn to Antarctica and the Falkland Islands. Some voyages include Patagonia.
ON THE SHIP
MS Roald Amundsen is named after the renowned Norwegian polar explorer and features contemporary Scandinavian design. Dining options include the main dining room, Scandinavian fine dining and casual international dining. The wellness centre has an infinity pool and the science centre has a wet area for presenting and preparing samples.
OFF THE SHIP
Excursions include ice camping, a polar plunge (ice swimming), kayaking, hiking and snowshoeing.
DON'T MISS
Hurtigruten has a 126-year polar history and the world's greenest ship so you are leaving a small footprint and your voyage supports scientific research.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $13,596 a person. See hurtigruten.com.au
CRYSTAL ENDEAVOR
THE SHIP
Crystal Cruises' first expedition ship will bring the company's renowned luxury to Antarctica.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
200
LAUNCHED
August 2020
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Azipod propulsion system with optimised energy management
WHERE IT GOES
East Antarctica from Hobart to Lyttleton and return in 20-21 season; Ushuaia to Antarctic Peninsula and the Falklands in 2021.
ON THE SHIP
Crystal Endeavor has a 1:1 staff-to-guest ratio, a two-storey glass-enclosed solarium, the Crystal Life Spa and the only casino on an expedition ship. There are six restaurant options from Italian and Nobu's Japanese-Peruvian to casual meals within the solarium. Explorers and scientists help you understand Antarctica and all-suite accommodation provides private verandahs and butlers.
OFF THE SHIP
Antarctic experts will accompany guests on cruises and landings by Zodiac and kayak.
DON'T MISS
Crystal Endeavor's two helicopters and submarine.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $23,283 a person See crystalcruises.com.au
LE LYRIAL, PONANT
THE SHIP
The Ponant has a busy Antarctic program. Le Lyrial is a sister ship of Le Boreal (2010), L'Austral (2011) and Le Soleal (2013). Two new Explorer-class ships come to join the existing four but none is yet deployed in Antarctica; the icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot arrives in 2021.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
200
LAUNCHED
2015
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Four diesel engines
WHERE IT GOES
From Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falklands and South Georgia.
ON THE SHIP
Ponant offers the French touch throughout with menus developed in conjunction with Ducasse Conseil, an open bar (including house Charles Heidsieck champagne) and Hermes toiletries. There's SOTHYS spa to ease tired muscles. Lectures and presentations provide in-depth information and context about Antarctica.
OFF THE SHIP
Ponant has an award-winning zero-impact protocol with the ambition of zero impact on the visited ecosystem. There's kayaking, Zodiac shore visits and exploration with the expedition team, hikes, visits to research stations and wildlife observation.
DON'T MISS
The young fleet brings the latest in eco-responsibility and environmental sensitivity to these pristine areas.
ESSENTIALS
Ocean Endeavour is not a new vessel but it marks the welcome return of Australia's Peregrine Adventures (part of Intrepid Travel) to Antarctic voyages.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
199
LAUNCHED
1982
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Two MGO-fuelled diesel engines
WHERE IT GOES
Out of Ushuaia from October 2020 to the Antarctic Peninsula, Falklands and South Georgia. Some voyages begin with a flight to meet the ship in Antarctica.
ON THE SHIP
Ocean Endeavour provides lots of outer deck space as well as spacious interiors. The restaurant has large panoramic windows and there's an onboard wellness centre. Two Zodiac gangways on each side of the vessel ensure disembarkation with minimal waiting.
OFF THE SHIP
Excursions aim for less accessible landing sites and longer hikes ashore. There's also sea kayaking, an icy 'polar plunge' and camping.
DON'T MISS
Industry-leading double offsetting carbon emissions, sustainably-sourced seafood is served, no single-use plastics and only biodegradable, phosphate-free cleaning products are used onboard.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $10,300 per person. See peregrineadventures.com/en-au
GREG MORTIMER, AURORA EXPEDITIONS
THE SHIP
Aurora Expeditions' Greg Mortimer with its X-Bow has been long anticipated. The Norwegian design is to smooth sea crossings and reduce fuel consumption and emissions. A sister ship may be announced later this year.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
120
LAUNCHED
October 2019
MEANS OF PROPULSION
MGO-fuelled diesel-electric
WHERE IT GOES
The Greg Mortimer operates out of Ushuaia but also offers flights to meet the ship in Antarctica. It sails to the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falklands and South Georgia.
ON THE SHIP
To be connected to the environment there's lots of indoor and outdoor viewing areas, an open ship's bridge and two unique hydraulic viewing platforms. A library, multi-media room, lecture theatre and wellness centre complement the two bars/lounges and airy restaurant.
OFF THE SHIP
Four Zodiac platforms and 15 Zodiacs plus an activity platform get you onto the water quickly. Specialist activities include diving, kayaking, ski touring, stand-up paddleboarding and climbing. You also have the chance to snowshoe and camp on the ice.
DON'T MISS
Appreciate the X-Bow in the Drake Passage and the virtual anchoring technology to hold the ship in place without the need to drop anchor.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $15,220 (US $10,500) per person. See auroraexpeditions.com.au
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ENDURANCE, LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS
THE SHIP
Lindblad Expeditions' purpose-built polar expedition vessel, named in honour of Shackleton's ship, has an X-Bow to slice through waves for a smoother ride.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
126
LAUNCHED
April 2020
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Diesel-electric Azipod for minimal noise
WHERE IT GOES
From Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falklands and South Georgia and semi-circumnavigations of Antarctica from Ushuaia to Dunedin and return.
ON THE SHIP
Endurance has almost 1000 square metres of windows, including 270 degree views from the dining room, just one of the restaurant options on board. There's a photo workshop area, an open-bridge policy, views from the gym and expansive decks.
OFF THE SHIP
As well as a fleet of Zodiacs and kayaks, Endurance has a Remotely Operated Vehicle with underwater video camera. The expedition style is active with long hikes and impromptu excursions.
DON'T MISS
X-Bow innovation in the Southern Ocean and National Geographic photographers to improve your craft.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $10,300 per person. See au.expeditions.com
WORLD EXPLORER, QUARK EXPEDITIONS
THE SHIP
Quark Expeditions first popularised polar travel and its newest vessel will be followed by Ultramarine in late 2020.
MAX PASSENGERS IN ANTARCTICA
172
LAUNCHED
April 2019
MEANS OF PROPULSION
Two hybrid diesel electric
WHERE IT GOES
Antarctic Peninsula (some fly-sail), Falklands, South Georgia.
ON THE SHIP
The Explorer is refined, roomy and fast. Every suite has a balcony, the spa is by L'Occitane and the restaurant can offer al fresco dining.
OFF THE SHIP
Excursions include kayaking, camping and stand-up paddleboarding..
DON'T MISS
Spending time taking in your surrounds from the Observation Lounge.
ESSENTIALS
Fares from $12,316 (US$8495) per person See quarkexpeditions.com
TEN TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL NEW ERA TRIP TO ANTARCTICA
WHEN TO GO
Summer is the time to visit. Early season has pristine snow, penguins nesting and sea ice; mid-season has penguin chicks; late season has whales and moulting penguins.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT ITINERARY
There are three main routes from South America. The most affordable is the east side of the peninsula. Add extra days for a voyage that crosses the Antarctic Circle. The longest route is to Antarctica via the Falkland Islands and South Georgia Island. Several voyages include the cost of internal or charter flights and some include a flight to Antarctica or the Falklands.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT SHIP
Though fewer in number now there are still some quite basic ships sailing to Antarctica while there are others offering butlers, helicopters and submarines. Visit iaato.org to find links to the websites of member companies and see traveller.com.au/antarctica
CHOOSE THE RIGHT EXCURSIONS
On Antarctic voyages excursions off the ship are included. Though you may need to select (and pay extra) if you wish to use a helicopter, dive, kayak or camp on the ice.
WHAT TO PACK
Everyone thinks Antarctica equals cold but for visitors the Peninsula equates to Australian ski resort cold. But travelling in small boats can be wet. Check if your chosen company supplies wet weather gear. Buy the best Goretex gloves you can find and pack a second pair for when they get wet. Take lots of camera memory.
HOW TO STAY HEALTHY
If you have a proven anti-seasickness remedy, pack it. Or take a range. The crossing south is the worst – it's smooth once you reach the ice and most have "sea legs" for the homeward voyage. Walk within your limitations, whether on a rocking ship or rocky shore. And everyone holds the hand rails so hand sanitise often.
DON'T LEAVE ANTARCTICA WITHOUT ...
SEE
South Georgia has colonies of half a million king penguins, the rugged island is beautiful and Grytviken is the gravesite of legendary explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton.
DO
A Zodiac cruise can be as rewarding as landing. Icebergs are like sculpture gardens and you may see whales and seals up close.
SEE
Most Peninsula voyages come within 100 nautical miles of the Antarctic Circle (66 degrees 33.6 minutes) but only a few voyages cross it. The landscape is different and icier down there and Marguerite Bay is wonderful.
DO
Global warming reveals more crevasses but there are still glaciers safe to climb. The view makes it worthwhile though it's embarrassing to be passed by penguins on the uphill slog.
SEE
Penguins lead simple lives: feed, breed, nest, feed young, fight with neighbours, moult. Watch a colony to understand their lives. Stroppy chinstraps are the most entertaining but Adelies are funny and kings elegant while gentoos emulate Homer Simpson.
DO
The most common mistake first time visitors make is to rush around. Try to put the camera away at least once and just observe.
SEE
Until Christmas it never gets dark so you decide whether it's sunrise or sunset.
DO
At the start of summer, bays may be filled with winter ice. If given the opportunity to walk on it, take it – you'll feel like a true polar explorer.
SEE
Whether on shore or on a Zodiac cruise look into the water to see wildlife from jellyfish to krill – and penguins are graceful underwater.
DO
Spend time in lectures and on the bridge. Each Antarctic voyage has a lot of knowledge on board. An open ship's bridge is a great place to watch wildlife with experts and observe ship operations.
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