Adventure ... Pepe and Lucia Schravesande ride out from the coral.Credit: Julie Miller
Julie Miller climbs into the saddle to explore the sights, sounds and flavours of the countryside around a 400-year-old colonial village.
WE REIN in our horses to admire the view, Lake Avandaro twinkling through pine trees silhouetted against an azure sky. In the distance a paraglider floats on invisible thermals, its rainbow arc slowly sinking like a deflated beach ball. As we watch, our mounts languidly swish their tails, grateful for the pause in proceedings. They've worked hard carrying us to this lookout on Monte Alto, 2200 metres above the reservoir that provides Mexico City with its water supply.
But one of our party is missing the visual feast - our host Pepe's young horse is having a moment further down the trail, refusing to step over a large white bag blocking its path. Despite the fact that his stablemates walk calmly by, the youngster is convinced the bag is a monster, its unknown contents likely to jump out and bite his legs as he passes.
As Pepe gently cajoles him, letting him take a good look at the offending bogeyman, I make a stupid joke about the horse discovering a valuable stash of marching powder - and immediately regret my words.
In Mexico, drugs are no laughing matter. Not only has the government's ongoing battle with the powerful drug cartels brought the economy to its knees but it has effectively crippled the country's tourism industry.
No one is more aware of this than Pepe and Lucia Schravesande, owners of the luxurious bed and breakfast Finca Enyhe in Valle de Bravo, two hours west of Mexico City. From this colonial-style hacienda tucked into the hillside of the 400-year-old town, the couple also run Cabalgatas La Sierra, one of the most highly regarded horse-trek companies in the world, which offers week-long rides through the glorious countryside of this mountain retreat.
Despite being internationally acclaimed by the equestrian community, business has been lean over the past few years. On the back of the swine flu scare, a volcanic eruption and the global economic crisis, recent safety concerns have seen business plummet as nervous Americans, in particular, heed dire warnings about travelling to Mexico.
Slowly, however, the battle is being won and as it becomes clear the Mexican government is serious about exterminating the drug blight visitors are returning, embracing the many positives of a holiday in this vibrant, fun-loving and irrepressible destination.
For Pepe and Lucia, reassuring clients of the safety of their delightful corner of the country is paramount. Guests are encouraged to take advantage of a door-to-door transfer service from Mexico City, avoiding driving or public transport. They have also adjusted some of their riding routes to stay within the confines of Mexico State, avoiding any potential trouble spots in neighbouring Michoacan.
As one of the wealthiest areas of Mexico, Valle de Bravo is also arguably one of the safest, with heightened security and a visible police presence. The overwhelming desire is for local children and tourists to be able to wander the hamlet's sleepy cobblestone streets without a care, soaking up the colonial atmosphere and enjoying a welcome respite from city life.
From my elevated position in a hand-carved charro saddle, I certainly feel a world away from the violent images shown on evening news reports. The Mexico I'm experiencing is one of peace and tranquillity, of laughter, gracious hospitality and vibrant colours, sounds and flavours. These forest trails, pungent with the sweet smell of pine, present a delightful snapshot of rural life - a burro and a mule stand beside a mustachioed, sombrero-wearing cowboy, characters straight out of a spaghetti western; mariachi music wafts on the breeze, pumped out of a distant car radio; while in the village below, church bells sound to celebrate Dia de las Madres (Mother's Day).
Occasionally we reach an alpine meadow, fragrant with wildflowers - here we can give our eager horses their heads, stretching out in a joyous canter. The pace slows as we approach villages, children staring in awe at the approaching cavalcade. Lucia and Pepe's horses are a handsome string, beautifully turned out in their western tack, while our hosts are equally impressive in their traditional charro riding outfits, Pepe complementing his broad-rimmed sombrero with a wonderfully cliched cigar.
Lucia, meanwhile, is a font of information about horses and riding, a brilliant instructor happy to give helpful tips along the way. Riding with her is not just a pleasure, it's an education, with most guests leaving as more competent riders.
With its peak season from November to May, Cabalgatas La Sierra offers several different holidays for riders of varying abilities. For those who just want a few hours' riding a day, the Relaxed Ride allows plenty of time to chill by Finca Enyhe's pool, laze in a hammock in the sunny courtyard or explore the village.
The Classic Ride is for more experienced riders and includes up to six hours a day in the saddle, each day bringing a new and spectacular highlight - riding along the edge of the man-made lake, admiring the mansions of Mexico City millionaires and celebrities; the all-white village of Atezcapan; or the majesty of a rocky knoll known as Los Tres Reyes - "the three kings". Between November and March, the itinerary also includes a visit to the Monarch butterfly sanctuary to witness the amazing natural phenomenon of millions of orange-winged butterflies flitting in dappled sunlight deep in the forest. It's a magical, surreal and some say spiritual experience, the whirr of fluttering wings reverberating through the still air.
During the Classic Ride our horses are stabled along the trail, resting with a solid feed after their efforts of the day.
The riders, however, are transported back to the comforts of Finca Enyhe, where a gourmet four-course meal and jugs of freshly made margaritas await. Pepe and Lucia are congenial hosts, brilliantly bilingual and well informed about local history, culture and politics. Lively conversations often continue late into the night. Then - such bliss after a long day in the saddle - it's time for a hot shower before falling into a cosy bed, the rural silence engulfing us before the morning rooster crows.
Even for non-riders, Finca Enyhe is a delightful place to spend a weekend or longer.
The colonial-style hacienda, built around a central courtyard with a bubbling fountain, features seven spacious suites, each decorated with Mexican antiques and featuring an open fire and tiled floors. The stunning infinity pool is surrounded by climbing bougainvillea and wisteria, flowering prickly pear and citrus trees, while just a short walk away is the village, charming with terracotta-roofed stucco buildings, bustling markets and a zocalo watched over by a towering cathedral. The lake is also a major drawcard - boat tours are available and there are several restaurants and bars on its picturesque edge.
Weekend and midweek packages with full board provide the perfect introduction to Mexican hospitality.
But even if you are not an experienced equestrian, take the opportunity to saddle up and absorb the nuances and traditions of Mexico, not just as an observer but as part of the country's heritage.
The writer was a guest of Cabalgatas La Sierra.
Trip notes
Getting there
Several airlines fly from Australia to Los Angeles, with transfers to flights to Mexico City. Finca Enyhe is 2½ hours' drive from the city, with car transfers included in the weekly rate.
Staying there
A two-night package, including three meals, at Finca Enyhe costs 3080 Mexican pesos ($247) a person, with longer packages available.
The Relaxed Ride costs from $US1900 ($1850) a week (including all accommodation, meals, transfers to and from Mexico City and daily riding), while the Classic Ride costs from $US2150.
Further information
Three other ways to enjoy Valle de Bravo
1 From the water The largest body of water in central Mexico, Lake Avandaro, is abuzz with watercraft, from luxury yachts to kayaks, on any given weekend, as Mexico City residents escape the heat of the concrete jungle. An affordable way to explore the lake's pretty coves is to rent a boat and driver from the municipal dock for between 200 and 400 pesos an hour ($14-$29).
2 From the air With reliable thermals, mountain-clear air and stable weather patterns, Valle de Bravo is Mexico's premier paragliding destination and home to the annual World Paragliding Flight Championships. Enjoy unbeatable views of the lake and village as you soar silently from the mountaintop, with tandem flights available. High season is from April to December but flights are available year-round.
3 Go shopping The village's main street, the Avenue Juarez, is lined with boutiques and galleries as well as cafes catering to the weekend tourist clientele; while the Mercado de Artesanias, three blocks from the zocalo, features tapestries, embroidery, linens, pottery, wooden items and basketry all hand-made by the colourfully dressed indigenous Mazahua people.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.