This was published 6 years ago

Jordan's Royal Automobile Museum: Fit for an actual king

By Kerry van der Jagt

August 25, 2017 — 9.00am

Royal Automobile Museum, Amman, Jordan, showcases an amphibious car, a Mercedes-Benz with gullwing doors and a 1946 Humber Super Snipe, all part of the private collection of the late King Hussein I of Jordan.Credit: Alamy

It turns out I like cars more than I thought. Especially when the vehicles include an amphibious car that can swim, a Mercedes-Benz with gullwing doors and a 1946 Humber Super Snipe, all part of the private collection of the late King Hussein I of Jordan.

Pulling up in front of the Royal Automobile Museum in Amman you'd be excused for thinking you were at the wrong museum – a 1947 De Havilland Dove aircraft marking the entrance rather than a car. But this is where it gets interesting – not only was the much-loved monarch a car buff, he was also a qualified pilot. A pilot who, at age 22, escaped two hostile Syrian MiG-17 fighters by landing his twin-engined plane in the Jordanian desert.

Given that during King Hussein's 47-year rule (1952 to 1999) he brokered peace in the Middle East, survived assassination attempts and developed a tolerant and stable society at home, it's only fair he was allowed to blow off some steam in his free time.

One of the Harleys King Hussein would take to the desert.Credit: Kerry van der Jagt

While a 1952 Aston Martin speaks of a man with a need for speed, a sturdy 450 SEL Mercedes-Benz was the king's car of choice when visiting Bedouin tribes. There's also a Ferrari F50, all sleek haunches and attitude, an Opel Ascona 400 rally car and a limited edition, Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Stirling Moss, one of the fastest cars ever produced. Yes, the king was a rev head.

Inaugurated in 2003 by King Hussein's son and successor King Abdullah II, the Royal Automobile Museum is home to more than 80 cars displayed alongside historic photographs and multimedia presentations. With four cavernous showrooms, excellent lighting and signage (in English) the museum is more contemporary gallery than garage.

"At last," says one visitor, standing back to admire a 1952 Lincoln Capri convertible, commissioned for the young prince's coronation in 1953. "A Middle-Eastern history lesson I can understand."

Cadillac Type 53 1916.Credit: Kerry van der Jagt

I too had struggled to understand how Jordan – sandwiched between Iraq, Syria, Saudi Arabia and Israel – had maintained stability amid such a messed-up neighbourhood.

The answer lies with the late king, a man committed to peace, tolerance and human rights since ascending the throne at age 17. As a testament to his negotiating skills, delegates from all political sides – the USA, Israel, Palestine, Great Britain, Russia, Iraq, Syria and Saudi Arabia – came together for his funeral on February 8, 1999.

Known to his people as Al-Malik Al-Insan (the ''Humane King'') King Hussein had succumbed, not to a fanatic's bullet, but to non-Hodgkin lymphoma.

A 1975 Mercedes Benz 600 LWB Pullman, the last car the king ever rode in, tells of the king's triumphant return to Jordan from the Mayo Clinic on January 19, 1999. Sadly, he died two weeks later. Out of respect the car was never driven again.

The weird and wacky also catches my eye, such as the "amphicar'', a cross between a red tugboat and an old Volvo, which the king would take on jaunts to the Gulf of Aqaba. And then there's the Czech-built 1937 T97 Tatra, a war-green, Volkswagen look-alike designed by Hans Ledwinka and coveted by Hitler.

The collection also includes more than 50 motorbikes, including a Harley-Davidson the king would ride through the desert to Wadi Rum, his American-born wife Queen Noor on the back, both smiling like extras from Easy Rider. Other bikes include a rare olive green 1916 Harley-Davidson used during the Great Arab Revolt and a 1952 Vincent Black Shadow, once the world's fastest motorbike.

Vincent Black Shadow 1952 - the fastest vehicle in its day.Credit: Kerry van der Jagt

For first time visitors to Jordan it's easy to be overwhelmed by the country's history and the place of the Hashemite dynasty in it. A few hours in a hillside museum ties it together, one set of wheels at a time.

TRIP NOTES

Part of the late king's motorbike collection.Credit: Kerry van der Jagt

traveller.com.au/jordan

visitjordan.com

FLY

Royal Automoblie Museum entrance. Credit: Alamy

Emirates Airlines flies to Dubai daily from Melbourne and Sydney, with onward connections to Amman in Jordan. See emirates.com

TOUR

Bunnik Tours' 25-day Egypt and Jordan in depth tour includes nine nights in Jordan visiting Amman, Jerash, the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum, Aqaba and Petra from $9,595, including international airfares. The Royal Automobile Museum is an included tour. Phone 1800 286 645. See bunniktours.com