UnspecifiedCredit: New Zealand Tourism
Though still favoured by adventure seekers, Queenstown is developing more sophisticated pleasures. Robert Upe finds 10 reasons to love the place.
New Zealander Henry van Asch surprised the world 19 years ago when he and A.J. Hackett coaxed people to jump off high bridges. They would tie a rubber thing - an elasticised lifeline - around the jumper's ankles and encourage them to take a leap of faith into thin air.
We now know it as bungy jumping but back in 1988 when van Asch and Hackett opened the first commercial bungy jumping at Kawarau Bridge, outside Queenstown, it was regarded as madness.
In a sense, van Asch was a wild child. He was also racing on the European speed-skiing circuit, where he reached a top speed of 194kmh.
The bungy partnership with Hackett has since split but van Asch still operates bungy at Kawarau Bridge.
However, his latest venture near the bridge - The Winehouse and Kitchen - is attracting attention.
Queenstown has matured, as has van Asch. The high adrenaline of Queenstown's adventure activities (everything from riding a rocket suspended on a wire to jet boating on the Shotover River) is now complemented by gravitas in indulgence.
With body pampering at day spas, eating Bluff oysters, drinking New Zealand sauvignon blanc or partying at chic late-night bars, Queenstown is much more than adventure and skiing.
Van Asch's Winehouse and Kitchen is new but it is already at the top of our "must visit" list for Queenstown.
The Winehouse and Kitchen
This restaurant and cellar door in a restored century-old farmhouse has character. There are rooms with leather sofas and open fires, the main restaurant has a retro feel with laminex tables and outside you can sit under big umbrellas, play bocce or wander around the garden. Platters are a house speciality; a sauvignon blanc platter for two includes seared Akaroa salmon and mussels for $NZ48 ($42). There are three wine ranges offered: the Freefall, Rock Ferry and the van Asch. The founder says his favourite is the 2006 Freefall sauvignon blanc ($NZ17.90). "It's made from fruit grown in our estate vineyard in Marlborough ... if you have ever been boating in the Marlborough Sounds it is beautiful, and this is the wine you want when you pull the boat up on to the shores of the beach and relax," he told Traveller.
See http://www.winehouse.co.nz.
Milford Sound
Forget the day-long road trip to Milford Sound, the way to go is by helicopter. Whiz by snow-capped peaks and along isolated mountain valleys to the coast and into the grandeur of the sound, where mountains and waterfalls plunge into the sea. The Over The Top helicopter company conducts the flights (from $NZ695).
Helicopter picnic
In summer, pack a gourmet picnic and get dropped off by helicopter on an isolated mountain top ($NZ640 a person with two flying). After lunch, call the pilot and the chopper will return to chauffeur you back to civilisation.
Onsen Hot Pools
Tony Williams and his wife Mitsi once lived a high-stress life involved in the computer industry in San Francisco. Then they bought a yacht, sailed away and settled in Queenstown. With relaxation in mind, they have just opened six private hot pools at the base of Coronet Peak snowfield. Each hot pool is in a cedar-enclosed bathing room with mountain views. After you settle into your spa (with the temperature set to your preference) you can press a button to retract the roof and front wall. The pools are constantly replenished by spring and rainwater and can be booked by the hour.
4WD adventure
New Zealand is famed for its white-knuckle mountain roads and there's no better way to get off the bitumen than with Nomad Safaris. Four-hour excursions include remote Skippers Canyon, with gold panning and drinks and snacks included.
See http://www.nomadsafaris.co.nz.
Sofitel
The five-star hotel, opened in 2005, is all about pampering. This winter the hotel unveiled its million-dollar LeSpa, which features a range of beauty and massage treatments, including a Maori treatment that wraps you in honey and Rotorua volcanic mud. Skiers are spoilt with a SoSki program with a ski concierge to arrange mountain transfers, escorted ski days, daily mulled wine and head-and-shoulder massages. You can even be fitted with hire gear while you sip a glass of pinot in the comfort of the hotel. In room, Sofitel has a Bathology experience. Arrive in your room to find your spa bath surrounded by candles and filled with soothing lavender, frankincense and chamomile essential oils. Lie back, relax and watch the television above the bath. The bed is special, too, a customised luxury cocoon with extra thick mattress and down padding.
See http://www.sofitelqueenstown.com.
Skiing
Snow conditions have been less favourable than expected this winter but when the going is good the closest snowfields to Queenstown - Coronet Peak and the Remarkables - have terrain to suit everyone. A favourite run is the black diamond Homeward at the Remarkables. It drops off from Shadow Basin and provides a 1.5-kilometre, off-piste descent before finishing at the access road for a shuttle pick up.
See http://www.nzski.com.
Bardeaux
Think of the biggest open fire you've ever seen, double it and that's what you'll find at Bardeaux. This is one of Queenstown's swankiest bars and the roaring fire is a focal point. The dimly lit Bardeaux heats up as the night goes. Explore the alleyways a bit further and you'll find other sophisticated drinking options such as Barmuda and Barup.
Joe's Garage
If actor Sam Neill isn't tending the vines for his Two Paddocks pinot noir label, local rumour is that he drops into Joe's Garage with the rest of Queenstown's "in" crowd. Frommer's Guide aptly describes it as "an American-style roadie cafe that meets Queenstown hip". Some locals say Joe's has lost a bit of its mojo since moving from the original garage it occupied, but it's still worth pulling up a stool at the long counter for people-watching and a breakfast of a bread roll packed with scrambled egg, bacon and sausage.
The Cow
People sometimes queue for hours to get into this little stone pizzeria oozing cosiness and warmth, fuelled by a big open fire. The Cow has taken on legendary status since it opened in 1976 and securing a table is as satisfying as the large pepperoni pizza ($NZ28.90).
Robert Upe travelled courtesy of Qantas and Sofitel.
FAST FACTS
Queenstown is on New Zealand's South Island. It nestles beside Lake Wakatipu and is surrounded by the spectacular Southern Alps, 486km from Christchurch.
Getting there
Qantas and Air NZ have regular flights direct to Queenstown from Melbourne and Sydney, and daily flights via Christchurch or Auckland. Return fares start at $742 including taxes.
Staying there
Sofitel has a LeSpa Celebration package until October 31 for $NZ340 ($298), which includes accommodation for two, breakfast and a $50 voucher to LeSpa. See http://www.sofitelqueenstown.com.
Eichardt's is another top-shelf hotel choice, with double rooms starting at $NZ1375 during winter. See http://www.eichardtshotel.co.nz.
Side trips
Closest snowfields: Coronet Peak, 18km; the Remarkables, 28km; Cardrona, 58km; Treble Cone, 96km.
There's great shopping in Queenstown.
Rug up in a jacket and have a vodka cocktail at the minus 5 bar.
The Fergburger serves the best burgers in Australia or NZ, enveloped in a big bun and wrapped in a brown paper bag.
Cruise Lake Wakatipu on the TS Earnslaw steamship.
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