Airport review: Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thailand

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This was published 1 year ago

Airport review: Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thailand

By John Borthwick
The airport, which opened in 2006 is a long, low structure that resembles a series of angular, wave-like forms.

The airport, which opened in 2006 is a long, low structure that resembles a series of angular, wave-like forms. Credit: iStock

THE AIRPORT

Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok, Thailand

THE FLIGHT

Qantas flight QF24 Bangkok to Sydney, economy class.

THE ARRIVAL

Suvarnabhumi (pronounced soo-wanna-poom) Airport, aka Bangkok Airport, is 35 kilometres by road from central Bangkok. The easiest way to arrive is on the Airport Link train direct from downtown Makkasan or Phaya Thai stations, a 26-minute trip costing 45 baht ($1.80) that delivers you to the basement level of the airport. Alternatively, a taxi that takes a little or much longer, depending on traffic, costs around 400 baht ($16) and brings you to the departure hall doors.

THE LOOK

The airport, which opened in 2006 is a long, low structure that resembles a series of angular, wave-like forms. The world's tallest free-standing control tower looms 132 metres over it. Departures sits at the highest of the airport's five levels. An open-plan space with very high ceiling, departures never feels claustrophobic or frantic even when the airport is busy. Nevertheless, as Thailand's principal domestic and international air hub, and servicing over 65 million passengers in a normal year, Suvarnabhumi does get busy, so plan accordingly. The airport is wheelchair-friendly, has electric buggies by arrangement, lifts to all levels and accessible toilets. Face masks are no longer mandatory.

CHECK-IN

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Check-in rows for the multiple airlines stretch across the entire, lengthy departures hall. Signage in English and information screens direct you to the appropriate row. Traffic flow is efficient but Suvarnabhumi is spread-out so take account of the long walking distances in the full departure sequence. If you've bought eligible goods and hold the necessary VAT refund papers you need to have the items inspected (don't pack them in checked luggage) and forms certified while still "landside", ie before security and immigration. This VAT processing desk is at the far righthand end of the departures hall.

SECURITY

After checking-in you proceed to security at the mezzanine level and then to immigration, where queues can be long. Tip: towards the righthand side of the departures hall is a dedicated but low-key entrance for Buddhist monks, infirm passengers and "Over 70" seniors, including foreigners. Definitely use it if you're eligible. Security is thorough and involves the usual laptops out, belts off, no liquids, and similar regimen. But it doesn't end there. Later, at the boarding gate to Australia-bound flights there is a final, manual inspection of carry-on items for all passengers. Allow plenty of time.

PASSING TIME

Having cleared immigration you descend a wide ramp, at the foot of which is a large, colourful sculpture from Hindu mythology depicting an episode called the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Other than this there are few features of Thai cultural note, with shopping and imbibing being the main events; or heading to an airline lounge if you have access. Free Wi-Fi is available in most areas.

FOOD AND DRINK

"Landside", on airport level three before security and Immigration there are numerous restaurants, bars and cafes. Similar outlets are also located "airside", offering Japanese, Western, Korean, franchised and of course Thai food.

RETAIL THERAPY

After immigration, if you're eligible for a refund present your documents at the dedicated VAT desk. You'll be paid in Thai baht, which you can then spend on more goods such as duty-free spirits, electronics, photographic gear, cosmetics and brand-name apparel, although nothing is notably cheap. Several large outlets specialise Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, silks and packaged foods.

THE VERDICT

During the currently lower numbers of international travellers, this well-designed and well-run airport is a very workable gateway to Thailand. In anticipation of returning tourist numbers a third runway is under construction. See bangkokairport.net

OUR RATING OUT OF FIVE

★★★★½

John Borthwick travelled as a guest of Four Seasons Bangkok Hotel at Chao Phraya.

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