This was published 7 years ago
Aman's latest Japan resort: Ise-Shima National Park, Honshu
By Ute Junker
Amanemu, Aman's new resort within the Ise-Shima National Park on the southern coast of Honshu.
Aman's newest resort has only been open a few weeks. Yet when today's guests arrive, emerging from the sleek limousine that collects new arrivals from the nearby train station, the general manager welcomes them with a cry of, "So good to see you again!"
In the world of Aman, there are many old friends. For the company's ferociously loyal clients, known as Aman junkies, their next holiday destination is wherever Aman opens its next resort, be that Sri Lanka or Montenegro or Morocco. As Aman rotates many of its employees through its properties, there is a good chance that guests will encounter at least one familiar face on arrival.
What is it that has Aman junkies hooked? The formula matches spectacular locations with minimalist interiors, superlative restaurants and spas with astonishingly attentive service. Aman resorts are typically so welcoming that many guests never leave the property. Not that Aman necessarily encourages cocooning; each resort has a range of activities designed to showcase the area's attractions and culture.
Aman's new resort within the Ise-Shima National Park on the southern coast of Honshu.
None of this comes cheap, although prices vary depending on the destination. At one end of the scale, room rates at Amanjiwo in central Java start at about $US670 ($884) including breakfast. At the other, a stay at Amangiri in Utah will set you back at least $US1500, although that does include three meals a day. Amanemu, which opened earlier this year, falls somewhere between the two, with a room rate of JPY109,836 ($1394) that does not include any meals.
The company's second Japanese property, after Aman Tokyo, is located away from the usual tourist route, inside Ise-Shima National Park on the southern coast of Honshu. Within Japan the area is known for its seafood and pearl farms, and as the home to some of Japan's most important Shinto shrines.
The area's tranquil bays and forested hills are certainly pretty, but the location lacks the wow factor that distinguishes many of Aman's other properties. So what made Aman choose this particular site? The answer is buried underground: a set of hot springs that provide superb soaking opportunities for guests.
The hot springs are just one of the Japanese traditions on which the property draws. The grounds have been planted with Japanese maples and cherry blossoms; the 24 guest suites and four two-bedroom villas, designed by Aman's favourite architect, Kerry Hill, adhere to Japanese design principles with their low-slung silhouettes, clean lines and use of natural materials.
One un-Japanese touch is the size of the suites. In this crowded country, space is considered a luxury, and it is one that Amanemu offers in abundance. Each spacious suite, clad in hinoki cypress, opens onto a deck overlooking the bay. The scene-stealer, however, is the spacious bathroom, where the toilet raises its lid when you approach, and where the black basalt tub has a third tap that pours piping hot spring water into your bath. Beware: at a scalding 60 degrees, you will do yourself an injury if you don't add some cold water before jumping in.
Alternatively, you can do your soaking in the spa. This 2000-square-metre complex, a quick buggy ride from the rest of the resort, is centred around an al fresco pool of mineral-rich waters. This is definitely a westernised take on the onsen tradition: there are day beds, shaded pavilions and an outdoor fireplace, and – in contrast to traditional practice – swimwear is very much required. If you're like me, you could easily spend the best part of the day lounging around here. For those with a shorter attention span, there are also yoga classes available, as well as a range of seasonal spa treatments including a foot scrub of wasabi and crushed pearls.
The resort's restaurant and bar are located in twin pavilions overlooking the bay. The bar showcases Japanese beverages, with a superb collection of whiskies, sakes and teas. The restaurant has a lovely curved ceiling and a Japanese menu, courtesy of chef Masanobu Inaba, that does a sterling job of showcasing hero ingredients such as spiny lobster, squid and Matsusaka wagyu beef, famous for its exquisite marbling.
If you are craving a taste of home, the breakfast and lunch menus include Western choices, but the dinner menu does not, although you can order up the usual suspects on room service. Pushing to meet a tight deadline one night, I do just that. My burger – which is accompanied with potato chips rather than french fries – is fine; the price, not so much. Room service is never cheap, of course, but $87 for a burger? Seriously?
Aman resorts always offer a program of activities showcasing local landscapes and culture. Here in the heartland of the Shinto religion, it's no surprise to find several temple visits on offer, including a trip to the most sacred shrine of all, the Ise Grand Shrine. I opt to explore the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, forest trails that connect atmospheric shrines such as the lovely Kamikura Jinja. There is a lot of driving involved and I'm disappointed that – in contrast with excursions at other Aman resorts – the vehicle is not one of the resort's cars, but a local taxi whose driver speaks no English. (We pick up an English-speaking guide along the way.)
Other popular activities include a seafood lunch hosted by the area's traditional female divers, some of whom are more than 60 years old. Alternatively, guests might opt to play a round on the 18-hole golf course next door, hike the area's verdant woodlands, or simply laze by the infinity pool.
Amanemu is certainly a relaxing haven, but it is unlikely to become one of the company's star performers. Even by Aman standards the experience is expensive – especially once you factor in meals – and the resort lacks the knock-your-socks-off element that sets Aman's best properties apart. Still, Aman junkies will be keen to tick this one off their list.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Amanemu is 300 kilometres from Tokyo, a trip that takes about four hours by train.
STAYING THERE
Rates start from JPY109,836 ($1394).
Ute Junker was hosted by Aman Resorts (but paid for the burger).
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