Shoal Bay Resort's apartments and pool.
Shoal Bay, once the scene of vast World War II military exercises, offers a peaceful welcome to Daniel Scott.
'Romance, remember that?" asks my partner as we gaze over Shoal Bay. The scene is as Tahitian as it gets in NSW: a semi-circle of vanilla-coloured beach lapped by a glinting turquoise ocean, with the gnarly, volcanic Tomaree Headland as the backdrop.
It's early afternoon and with our eldest busy with a colouring-in book and our infant having a nap, we're sitting on the balcony of our two-bedroom apartment at Shoal Bay Resort & Spa, enjoying a rare respite from parenthood.
An advertisement from earlier times.
But all I can think of is World War II. I'm imagining this tranquil bay full of landing craft and up to 20,000 American, British and Australian troops carrying out amphibious training manoeuvres. I'm also looking at the headland, picturing a fort, naval guns and torpedo tunnels.
It has been four years since my partner and I were at Shoal Bay, on the south-eastern shore of Port Stephens and about 2½ hours' drive north of Sydney. For the next two days we're aiming to take advantage of the resort's facilities and steal some couple time.
However, ever since reading that the Shoal Bay Country Club - founded in 1934 and around which this modern resort has evolved - was requisitioned by the US military during the war, I've been woefully off-message.
Wartime beach exercises.
"They reckon the country club was the headquarters for the Joint Overseas Operations Training Services or JOOTS," I say, sharing my excitement, "and they had maps of the Pacific war running right around the dining room."
My partner sips her pinot grigio and feigns mild interest.
"It's where they made the plans for the Pacific campaign," I say, "then took them to General MacArthur in Melbourne."
Relaxing in the spa.
As she sighs, my brain catches up with my tongue and I drop my narrative on Shoal Bay's history. Thankfully, that afternoon we're back on track as we adjourn to the resort's spa, a $5.5-million complex and one of the mid-north coast's most impressive. It's an inviting, light-filled space, with a 25-metre heated lap pool, three thalassotherapy mineral spa pools, a cardio-fitness centre and several massage and aqua-therapy treatment rooms.
The spa menu is as exotic as the resort's surroundings, promising such treats as a Waterlily Spiced Chai Tisane wrap and a Pink Frangipanni Creme Body Polish.
Taking turns at minding the children, we book back-to-back, 90-minute "complete wellbeing" massages. During our treatments we both fall asleep but emerge with a healthy glow to our cheeks.
I've not been a fan of big resorts in the past (Shoal Bay has 200 apartments and so many facilities that you never have to leave). However being this close to pools, a family games room, four restaurants and three bars now seems like a splendid idea. On the first day we spend hours at the kids' wading area and adjacent pool. Then, in the evening, after tucking the children in bed, we hand them over to June's babysitting service.
As we guiltily close the apartment door behind us, we can scarcely believe we're headed for our first dinner "a deux" in living memory. However at Catch, the resort's a la carte restaurant, the sweeping views over Shoal Bay from our window table, a glass or two of Hunter Valley wine and our lobster and soft-shell crab mains help us get the better of our anxiety.
The next day follows much the same pattern as the first, only with both parents singing from the same song sheet: a big buffet breakfast at the Promenade Room - the country club's original dining room - a light lunch at the resort's Sandyfoot cafe, another visit to the spa and back to Catch for dinner.
However, today we do at least leave the resort to enjoy some of Port Stephens' natural highlights. Carrying our youngest in a backpack, we slowly hike nearby Tomaree Headland. It's a 160-metre climb on stairs and along elevated walkways but we're rewarded with views over Port Stephens, the coast and Cabbage Tree and Boondelbah islands. We spot dolphins, watch as a humpback whale and her calf enter the bay and I try not to show too much interest in the summit's World War II radar site or the gun emplacements lower down Tomaree Headland.
In the afternoon, we drive to Tilligerry Peninsula, beside Tanilba Bay. The peninsula's a hotspot for koala sightings and, sure enough, it takes just a short amble among the coastal forest to find several curled in trees. The children are thrilled and remain so when we take our four- wheel-drive for a spin on the powdery dunes of Stockton Beach, which runs south of Port Stephens for 32 kilometres.
On our final day we wake to such a perfect spring morning that we phone reception to arrange a later check-out time, hire resort bikes (with children's seats) and follow cycle trails through Tomaree National Park to Fingal Bay. We build sandcastles and play in rock pools before heading back to the resort's heated pools one last time.
The Shoal Bay Resort may not be the most glitzy place for a romantic break, but for stressed parents looking to rediscover their mojo, it's hard to beat. "Let's not leave it so long until the next time," my partner says as we leave. "Then we can find out more about MacArthur's war plans," she adds, giving me a playful slap.
Daniel Scott stayed courtesy of Shoal Bay Resort.
FAST FACTS
Getting there Port Stephens is 2½ hours' drive north of Sydney via the F3 freeway. Continue on the Pacific Highway beyond the Newcastle turnoff and over the Hexham Bridge, then take the Richardson Road exit for Nelson Bay. This will take you first to Nelson Bay, then Shoal Bay. Williamtown airport in Newcastle is 30 minutes' drive south of Shoal Bay and is served by Brindabella Airlines.
Staying there Shoal Bay Resort & Spa has an early-bird family deal from $306 a night, midweek, based on two adults and two children, for stays until December 22, if booked a month in advance. Weekend supplements apply. Phone 1800 181 810; see shoalbayresort.com.
Eating there The resort has four on-site eateries. The seaside restaurant, Catch, has a four-course degustation menu (including four Robert Oatley wines) for $79. Also on-site are Sandyfoot Cafe and the Country Club Hotel.
Touring there Tilligerry Habitat at Tanilba Bay is an ecotourism information centre that organises guided walks including koala spotting; 90-minute tours cost $15 adults, $10 children (under fives free). Phone 4984 5677, see tilligerryhabitat.org.au.
More information See portstephens.org.au.
Beyond beach or pool
Port Stephens for families
Meet an assortment of farm and roaming animals at Oakvale Farm and Fauna World. Children can bottle-feed lambs and baby goats, milk Daisy the cow and pat koalas and kangaroos. Open 10am-5pm daily. Family passes cost $55 (two adults, two children), adults $18, children (3-16) $10. At Oakvale Drive, Salt Ash, just off Nelson Bay Road. See oakvalefarm.com.au.
Until next month, take a whale-watching tour and spot humpbacks returning to Antarctica with their newborn calves. Sightings off Port Stephens are almost guaranteed, with dolphins also common. Moonshadow Cruises has tours on vessels fitted with three viewing decks and underwater video cameras.
Tours take place at 10am and 1.30pm daily. Adults $51, children (4-14) $21.25. See moonshadow.com.au.
For the ultimate soft adventure, go sandboarding on Stockton Bight's enormous dunes. Port Stephens 4WD Tours runs regular sandboarding shuttles, departing from Anna Bay, with boards and instructor provided. Family passes cost $74 (two adults, two children), adults $26, children (4-14) $19. See portstephens4wd.com.au.
At the Australian Shark and Ray Centre at Bobs Farm, children as young as two can get into the shallow aquarium (with their parents) and hand-feed rays and friendly sharks. Open 9am-5pm daily.
Adults $29.50, children $19.50.
See ozsharkandray.com.au.
With its toboggan rides, rock-climbing wall and maze, the Toboggan Hill Park is Port Stephens' best option for letting off steam. Entry prices $8 (for all "kids" over eight years of age) or $5 for children aged 4-7. See nelsonbay.net/toboggan.
Port Stephens for lovers
Take a picnic to the top of Gan Gan Lookout for 360-degree views over Port Stephens bay, which is more than four times the size of Sydney Harbour. In spring, the wildflowers around the lookout, particularly the giant burgundy-coloured Gymea lilies and the orchids, are spectacular.
Paddle a double kayak on the bay as the sun goes down. Blue Water Sea Kayaking has 90-minute sunset tours, with sparkling wine, for $35 a person. No experience necessary and life jackets provided.
See kayakingportstephens.com.au.
Check the tides and take a walk across the spit to enjoy the seclusion of Fingal Head. Hurry back before the tide changes or you might be there all night.
Take a sunset camel ride at Anna Bay. Oakfield Ranch has hour-long safaris by appointment, for $60 a head.
See oakfieldranch.com.au.
If nothing else is working, visit Holberts Oyster Farm at Salamander Bay and buy a dozen powerful aphrodisiacs with which to woo your loved one.
See holbertsoysterfarm.com.
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