This was published 15 years ago
Anchors aweigh at Bora Bora
Kay O'Sullivan joins the international wet-set, cruising among the lesser-known islands of French Polynesia on a very posh yacht.
By Kay O'Sullivan
IN 1891, the French artist Paul Gauguin wrote of his adopted home of Tahiti: "On the 17th degree of latitude at the antipodes, all nights are beautiful."
Gauguin's spare description does no justice to the perfection that is a Tahitian night.
More than a century after the painter's death, the abundance of glories that inspired Gauguin to greatness in art, if not in life - he died suffering from syphilis while awaiting prison - are barely diminished.
Tahiti is one of those increasingly rare destinations where the imagery is matched by the reality, and this despite decades of tourism.
My visit is during the second month of the wet. For most of the week the sun wins the day. The nights are still and (ahem) beautiful. The rains, when they sweep through, cannot dilute the colours of day and do nothing to diminish the pleasure of night.
The men of the Bounty had six months on the island of Tahiti. Poor old Captain Bligh did not stand a chance.
French Polynesia consists of 118 islands; the best-known grouping of the archipelago is known as the Society group: Tahiti, home to the capital, Papeete; Moorea; and on the leeward side of the archipelago, Bora Bora, with its jutting peaks, over-water bungalows and famous lagoon - like Gauguin's work, instantly recognisable.
But for this story Bora Bora is just the beginning. The destination is moored outside Bora Bora's jade-green lagoon, the Ti'a Moana, a 70-metre yacht, which does a weekly run around the lesser-known islands of the archipelago: Taha'a, Huahine and Raiatea.
Tahitian transport magnate Mehiti Degage engaged top Swedish marine designers Tillbert to build the Ti'a Moana. She asked for three things: a yacht imbued with the spirit and style of her beloved country; one that would replicate a luxury private yacht experience; and that could fit into snug coves and shallow lagoons, sidling up to shores just metres from local bakeries. She got it.
The integration between international style and Polynesian ambience is beautifully executed. All the hallmarks of five-star luxury are present. The crystal gleams, the sofas are soft and plush. There is a spa, gym, several bars, two jacuzzis, varied sitting areas. The wines are from all over the world, the food definitely something to write home about. In the cabins there are plasmas and DVDs. My only quibble is the squeezy bathrooms and gym.
The library is filled with books on the rich Polynesian history and culture, and hand-crafted bowls spill over with the blossom of the tiare, a form of gardenia, the floral emblem of Tahiti.
By cruising standards, the Ti'a Moana is small, 50 guests waited upon by 44 crew.
It takes me a few days navigating my way around the public spaces and up and down the four levels to decide upon my favourite spot - the aft deck with its padded seats and French flag fluttering behind.
There are precious few rules on board. This is the Tahitian way and, I am reliably informed, the way of the superwealthy on private yachts. There are no organised activities or entertainment deemed to be integral to cruising. On the Ti'a Moana, the food, wine, company and surroundings suffice - brilliantly.
If you are hungry, you eat. Fancy a swim? Then the tender appears to whisk you off to a beach where your spot is marked with a square of colourful cotton, a comfortable chair, water, towels and sunscreen.
Set times are left back at home ports. So are shoes. When we board, the captain greets us in wrap sunglasses, shirt, wrap-around pareo and sandals. Most of the cheerful crew go barefooted; the passengers happily imitate.
But that is not to say you can't dress up. This is, after all, a cruise, albeit one cleverly disguised as a private yacht. Dressing for dinner is part of the fun.
Dedicated cruisers might be disappointed at the time spent on the open sea. The big runs were done early in the morning or late at night. The longest journey was 21 kilometres and over seven days the Ti'a Moana travelled about 300 kilometres, in the main hugging the island's curves or puddling about in lagoons.
Still, those who want to get up close to Tahitian life will be well satisfied, as sailing is scheduled to optimise sightseeing and activities. One day we travel a mere couple of hundred metres to seek out a perfect beach. A sunset cruise around Taha'a is designed to catch the best view of the string motus or islets that hang off the north-west edge of the island.
Another night we drop anchor off Tevairoa motu and are tendered into the most exotic of cinemas - a canvas screen strung between palms. Fruity concoctions are served up along with the 1928 film, Tabu, a deliciously overwrought tale of illicit love and revenge, which was filmed in Tahiti and Bora Bora, the backdrop to the screen.
Another motu - or islet - another night, this time on Hana iti, the smaller of the two islands of Huahine, known as the isle of the bards, a group of Tahitian women and children sang before supper was served to us at tables set on the water's edge. The crew, who daily performed miracles and anticipated every eventuality, could do nothing about the rain that bucketed down after the first course. Forced to give up our beachhead by the forces of nature, we retreated to the boat and continued our five-course dinner.
Then there was my Diana moment, when I dived off the back of the boat, did a lap around it, and was handed a thick towel and cool drink as I clamoured back.
Snorkelling expeditions are also part of the deal on the Ti'a Moana. Optional extras include diving, power-skiing, horseriding and island excursions.
Life on Taha'a island seems relatively simple. There are few fences, the yards are full of chooks, dogs and children all scrabble around together. There's an occasional shop but not much more. The houses are basic but there are an amazing number of antennas and even satellite dishes.
Maeve, seven kilometres away, was the seat of royal power and more than 30 buildings have been excavated and restored.
At Tahiti's second-biggest town Uturoa, on Raiatea, the boat is loaded with provisions, which gives us a couple of hours to explore the town. There are vestiges of French influence all around, in the buildings, the lights, the food, language and drink, but the Frenchness is a backdrop, not the dominant force.
Tahiti is its own country and to paraphrase one of its most famous expats in one word: beautiful.
Fast facts
Getting there: Air Tahiti Nui has direct flights from Sydney to Papeete on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. The Wednesday flight is via Auckland. Phone 1300 732 415.
Cruising: G.E.T Cruising is offering an advance purchase package for a six-night cruise on the Ti'a Moana, which includes business-class return air fares with Air Tahiti Nui to Papeete from Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane for $11,895. The deal includes flights, transfers, the six-night cruise, gourmet meals, complimentary wines with lunch and dinner each day and use of sporting equipment. The normal price is $13,795. Advance package with economy air fares is $10,476 and the normal price is $11,401. Advance tickets must be purchased 120 days before departure. The Ti'a Moana leaves Bora Bora on Mondays.
More information: Contact your local travel agent or G.E.T. Cruising on 1800 354 283 or log on to boraboracruises.com, airtahitinui.com.au, or tahiti-tourisme.com.
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