Thailand cycling tour, Ayutthaya: Ancient treasures

The 25-kilometre, largely flat trail begins in Ayutthaya Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991. It is scattered with weathered layers of burnt bricks that are the remnants of a grand city sacked by the Burmese who rampaged through the ancient capital, slaughtering its inhabitants, setting fire to buildings and looting the city's treasures.

Happily, peace reigns as we wander past endless statues of Buddha – reclining or sitting cross-legged, some dressed in saffron robes, others decorated in gold leaf – and seek relief from the hot sun under bougainvillea and frangipani trees.

Just north of Bangkok and easily accessible by road, or boat along the Chao Phraya River, Ayutthaya replaced Sukhothai as the capital in the mid 14th-century.

The new rulers were ruthless and disciplined, building a regal city of stately palaces, wide moats, stupas and spires (known as prangs).

What the regal builders did not count on was the spongy soils into which their buildings slowly subside. Yo reckons Ayutthaya is Thailand's answer to the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

There are several stupas and prangs tilting at rakish angles at our next stop at Wat Phra Mahatat, its entrance guarded by an ice-cream vendor selling exotic flavours such as pandan, durian and coconut.

We pass bare-footed boy monks more interested in their smart phones than ancient ruins. They're lucky. Yo tells us monks have to abide by 227 rules, while nuns have only eight rules to adhere, including eating only two meals a day.

Shaded by acacia and jujube trees, this site is renowned for a sculpted head ensnarled in tree roots that looks as if it belongs in The Hobbit not ancient ruins.

It is also where our peloton begins our two-wheeled expedition, headed by Yo who confesses his favourite sport is Facebook.

In contrast to the mayhem of Bangkok, Ayutthaya operates at a sedate pace. There is little traffic as we cycle past ancient crumbling city walls, spires pointing crookedly to the sky, moats shaded by red-flowering peacock tail trees and tourists rocking uneasily on top of elephants.

Our next stop, Wat Chai Wattanaram​, is on a curve in the river close to one of the churches built by European traders anxious to buy Thailand's silk and spices, precious metals and teak.

Ringed by stalls selling the usual tourist tat (does anyone still buy sequinned elephant bags?), the site is nonetheless peaceful and somewhat eerie given the blackened, headless Buddhas surrounding the large prang in its centre.

Back in the bike saddle, we begin a long stretch away from the crumbling ruins into the countryside, passing rice paddies and villages where children shout out hello and laugh at our exertions.

A mini-van follows us with drinks, snacks and the opportunity to bale from the tour if the going gets too tough. Happily, a light breeze and frequent stops to take photos and drink water make the ride a pleasure.

Lunch marks the halfway point of the Tour de Ayutthaya, where we swap the heat of the road for the heat of red curries and tom yam.

However, with the sumptuous royal palace at Bang Pa-in to visit before its early closing time, we are soon racing towards the finish line at a river crossing.

An hour later, we slide off our bike seats, flushed and drenched in sweat. Yo and Por have barely a hair out of place, let alone unsightly sweat patches, yet they are adamant they felt the heat.

"Thai people can understand the situation when we see western tourists getting hot and sweaty on a bike as Thai people we also have the same experience," Yo says.

"Thailand is a hot country so we can understand this very well."

SpiceRoads operates a number of half- and one-day cycle tours in and around Bangkok. Historic Ayutthaya begins with a hotel pick-up around 7am and ends at 5pm, cost is from $120 for adults and $95 for children aged 5-11. See spiceroads.com

The author travelled at his own expense.