This was published 2 years ago
Australian cruising returns: The best sailing itineraries to book now
By Brian Johnston
Despite a pandemic being declared two years ago, the resumption of cruising overseas in that time has seen 8 million passengers sail to more than 80 countries, according to Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA).
Here in Australian waters cruising was mostly suspended during the pandemic but now, in an announcement considered long overdue by cruise devotees and the industry itself, the federal government is to finally lift its cruise ban from April 17 after a two-year suspension of most cruising in Australia.
But it's not quite "anchors aweigh" just yet. State and territory governments have to finalise their health protocols and major cruise lines have already cancelled cruises through to the end of May. And it takes time to redeploy ships and sell cabin space.
The majority of Australian cruises aren't likely to return before the start of the 2022/23 summer season, although P&O Cruises Australia is flagging an optimistic return from May 31 (subject to approval) with the staggered launch of sailings from Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney.
Certainly there's an appetite for Australian cruises and increasing demand for longer itineraries.
Holland America and Princess, for example, have already sold out their epic month-long Australian circumnavigation cruises towards year's end, and bookings across the industry have been surging.
"Over the past few months we've seen a steady increase in demand for most of our key destinations, with domestic voyages being strong for the remainder of 2022," says Craig Bowen, managing director of Cruise Traveller, which represents 54 small-ship, river and expedition cruise lines.
With an ever-increasing range of itineraries and destinations on offer, a huge variety of ship sizes and holiday styles, and no need for the complications of international travel, Australian cruising looks set for fair winds and following seas.
Here's Traveller's special guide to all you need to know about the great Australian cruise restart including the best and most rewarding dinki-di destinations to which to set sail.
THE DESTINATION
The Kimberley, WA
THE CRUISE
Non-existent roads mean there's no other way to explore premier the Kimberley's wild coast and river gorges than on an expedition ship and by Zodiac. The landscapes and waterfalls are staggering, but so too is the Indigenous rock art and bird life. Cruises usually operate between Broome and Darwin.
DON'T MISS
Montgomery Reef is one of Australia's most unusual natural wonders, where tides dropping over reefs create mid-ocean waterfalls. Mitchell Falls, though reached by an expensive add-on helicopter flight, is a thundering wonder amid arid red rock.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Cruise on foreign-flagged vessels and you have to make an unnecessary detour to Indonesia. Home-grown Coral Expeditions is a Kimberley expert and extends some cruises to outstanding dive spots Rowley Shoals and Ashmore Reef.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
12-night Kimberley Icons cruise from Darwin to Broome or reverse. Departs September 12, 13 and 28, 2022. From $9290 a person, see coralexpeditions.com
THE DESTINATION
South Australia
THE CRUISE
Believe it or not, SA is the new frontier of Australian cruising with an increasing number of expedition ships exploring destinations such as Kangaroo Island, the Eyre Peninsula, Coffin Bay National Park and wildlife-rich islands such as the Pearson and Gambier islands.
DON'T MISS
Streaky Bay, a coastal town on the western side of the Eyre Peninsula, 303 kilometres by land north-west of Port Lincoln has voluptuous sand dunes, pink granite outcrops and sapphire waters, as well as interesting pioneer history and terrific seafood.
WHAT'S MY LINE
The vessel True North is as close as you'll get to the billionaire-yacht feeling unless you're a mining magnate. It hosts 36 passengers and carries six adventure boats and a six-person, air-conditioned helicopter.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Eight-night Southern Safari cruise from Adelaide to Ceduna (with charter flight back to Adelaide). Departs January 9, 2023. From $9995 a person, see truenorth.com.au
THE DESTINATION
Great Barrier Reef, Qld
THE CRUISE
Usually sailing from Sydney or Brisbane, these cruises involve sunny destinations, swimming and snorkelling with days at sea to indulge in the varied entertainments of larger ships. There are however expedition alternatives that escape to quieter outer reefs and islands.
DON'T MISS
An excursion to famed Whitehaven Beach, where powdery sand swirls into peacock-blue waters, or to Hardy Reef's pontoon for a plunge among wrasse, groupers, turtles and multi-coloured fish. On some itineraries, urban centres like Brisbane, Townsville or Newcastle provide a change of pace.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Royal Caribbean operates the world's largest cruise ships, perfect for those keen on super-relaxing, sociable resort-style holidays with restaurants, bars, big shows, water slides, swimming pools and other entertainments all in one package.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
10-night Great Barrier Reef cruise return from Sydney. Departs November 22, 2022. From $1511 a person, see royalcaribbean.com
THE DESTINATION
Cape York, Qld
Queensland cruises can be predictable but expeditions ships that head north from Cairns will suit those looking for a more off-beat and rugged experience. Itineraries often visit mainland Cooktown and Cape York, various Barrier Reef islands, and Thursday Island.
DON'T MISS
Friendly Cooktown, further north of Cairns, offers a fascinating history related to Captain James Cook, the gold-rush and early Chinese settlement. Thursday Island has World War II and pearling history but, above all, Indigenous culture. Be sure to visit Gab Titui Cultural Centre for its art gallery and cultural artefacts.
WHAT'S MY LINE
APT is best known for Kimberley cruises but also offers interesting Australian alternatives. Its ship Caledonian Sky carries 99 passengers on an intimate, all-inclusive experience with excursions made by Zodiac.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Nine-day Cape York and the Great Barrier Reef Expedition return from Cairns. Departs October 17 and 25, 2022. From $9995 a person, see aptouring.com.au
THE DESTINATION
Murray River, SA, Vic, NSW
THE CRUISE
The Murray provided trade and transport routes crucial to Australian history. River-cruise ships are modest but sail an interesting range of itineraries from various ports, some concentrating around Echuca and Swan Hill, others exploring rugged lower-river reaches. Enjoy former frontier settlements, cellar doors, homestead visits and an abundance of birdlife.
DON'T MISS
At Ngaut Ngaut Conservation Park, Indigenous guides conduct tours that explain rock art, oral histories and the environment. Loxton has a lovely riverside setting and a historical village that recreates 45 fully-furnished European settler buildings.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Murray Princess has cruises aboard a 120-passenger paddle-steamer that focus on the wildlife, culture and history of the South Australian section of the Murray.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Seven-night Murraylands and Wildlife cruise from Blanchetown to Murray Bridge. Regular departures year-round except December and January. From $2379 a person, see murrayprincess.com.au
THE DESTINATION
South-east Australia, NSW, Tas, Vic, SA
THE CRUISE
Larger cruise ships offer various itineraries out of Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide that nip between cities, visit the occasional small in-between port, and often detour to Hobart. These are good short introductions for cruising first-timers, and relaxing getaways for anyone needing an easy, everything-organised break.
DON'T MISS
Outside Hobart, the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) has a magnificent setting and startling collections of contemporary art. From Adelaide, you'll want to nip into the Barossa Valley for wine tasting.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Celebrity Cruises operates large but not mega-ships in a premium niche that creates a great balance for those keen on combining destination cruising with relaxing resort-style experiences and entertainment during days at sea.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Nine-night Australian Wine cruise return from Sydney. Departs Feb 7, 2023. From $1748 a person, see celebritycruises.com
THE DESTINATION
Southern Australian coastline, WA, SA, Vic, Tas, NSW
THE CRUISE
A whole range of cruise ships redeploy from the Pacific to Asia via Western Australia, which results in occasional, and interesting, longer cruises along the southern coastline. Typical smaller ports are Eden NSW, Kangaroo Island, SA and WA's Esperance, Albany and Busselton for the Margaret River region. Regular days at sea allow you to relax and enjoy the sailing experience.
DON'T MISS
Albany's King George Sound is a magnificent harbour and, as WA's first European settlement and a whaling port, has absorbing history. The National Anzac Centre is a must-visit, and the coast is splattered with national parks.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Azamara's mid-sized ships operate itineraries that emphasise destination and longer (sometimes overnight) stays in port. Dining choices and service levels are impressive; a luxury feel comes with a mid-range price-tag.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
14-night Australia Intensive Voyage from Fremantle, WA, to Melbourne, Vic. Departs December 21, 2022. From $6289 per person, see azamara.com
THE DESTINATION
Tasmania
THE CRUISE
Doing Tassie on a big ship out of Sydney or Melbourne barely gets you beyond Hobart and Port Arthur; beware the "scenic cruising" day at Freycinet without disembarkation. A much better option is a small-ship or expedition cruise whose longer itineraries get you into Tasmania's wild coastline crannies and include cultural attractions.
DON'T MISS
King Island's wind-whipped cliff tops, rolling hills and chilly cloudscapes are exhilarating, so take a hike to the nearest lighthouse. Zodiac excursions off the Tasman Peninsula allow for seal, whale and penguin spotting beneath spectacular cliffs and rock formations.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Ponant is an elegant French cruise line that combines luxury and fine dining with expedition destinations. Teams of knowledgeable wildlife and other experts enrich the experience.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
11-day Food, Wine & Yacht Race cruise return from Hobart. Departs December 23, 2022. From $11,540 a person, see au.ponant.com
THE DESTINATION
Coral Coast, WA
THE CRUISE
The Kimberley hogs the cruise limelight in WA but magnificent alternatives lie further south on expedition cruises, often out of Broome, that explore the Dampier Archipelago, remote reefs and islands, Shark Bay and elsewhere. Expect lots of swimming and snorkelling, abundant wildlife and remote, unusual destinations of clashing blue seas and red earth.
DON'T MISS
The Houtman Abrolhos Islands are ringed by the Indian Ocean's most southerly coral reefs, have spectacular seabird colonies, and allow for great fishing for coral trout, snapper and grouper.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Coral Expeditions operates very small ships which are smart, well-run and perfectly designed to get you into small bays and among scattered archipelagos and reefs.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
12-night Exploring Ningaloo, Montebello and Abrolhos Islands cruise from Fremantle to Broome or reverse. Departs October 10 and November 30, 2022. From $9290 a person, see coralexpeditions.com
THE DESTINATION
Australia circumnavigation
THE CRUISE
Larger ships and very occasional expedition vessels tackle the full tour. This is a fantastic have-it-all cruise for the unhurried and those who crave variety, from big cities to small coastal towns and occasional islands. Some itineraries call at Bali or Komodo. Most circumnavigations are already sold out for 2022, so make big plans for 2023.
DON'T MISS
Busselton, with its long heritage jetty, is gateway to the Margaret River and has abundant excursion options, including visits to wineries and the limestone landscapes of Cape Naturaliste. Ngilgi Caves have dramatic stalactites and stalagmites and rich indigenous stories.
WHAT'S MY LINE
The vibe of Princess Cruises is family-oriented but with plenty to suit adults and some adults-only areas its ships provide great multi-generational holidays.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
28-day Round Australia cruise return from Sydney. Departs October 25, 2023. From $5998 a person, see princess.com
THE DESTINATION
New Zealand
THE CRUISE
OK, New Zealand isn't a domestic destination, but who's quibbling when it comes to our beloved near neighbour? Port towns in this spectacular nation are made for scenic sea approaches, and if you cruise out of Australia then local ports such as Eden, Burnie or Hobart are an added bonus.
DON'T MISS
Burnie on Tasmania's scenic northern coastline. Rolling farmland provides great farm-door opportunities and eye-catching fields of poppies. Launceston and seaside Devonport are popular excursion destinations.
WHAT'S MY LINE
Norwegian Cruise Line is sending its completely revitalised Norwegian Spirit to Australia for the first time in December 2022. With 10 bars and lounges, 14 dining options and an expansive spa, the ship appeals to indulgent adult cruisers.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
12-day "Australia and New Zealand" cruise from Sydney to Auckland. Departs Dec 22, 2022 and Feb 8 and 4 Mar, 2023. From $3160pp, ncl.com
FIVE OF THE BEST AUSTRALIAN PORTS
PENNESHAW, SA
Kangaroo Island's cruise port provides access to an outstanding destination recovering from its dreadful bushfires. Cliffs, dunes, windswept beaches, lagoons and rolling farmland combine in lovely landscapes. Excursions visit local wine, honey and eucalyptus-oil producers and thriving sea-lion colonies. See tourkangarooisland.com.au
HOBART, Tas
This salty, sea-gazing city oozes maritime history, from the historic cottages and pubs of Battery Point to the Salamanca Place warehouses now turned into cafes and craft shops. Excursions take in Georgian-era town Richmond, Mt Wellington, Port Arthur and gloriously scenic Bruny Island. See discovertasmania.com.au
BROOME, WA
Red earth meets turquoise ocean in this Kimberley town where jetsetters, backpackers and rugged outback types mingle. A tiny Chinatown reminds of its 150-year Asian heritage, while Pearl Luggers relates Broome's pearling industry. Enjoy a pre-cruise stay at Cable Beach, renowned for its sunsets. See visitbroome.com.au
TOWNSVILLE, Qld
Australia's largest tropical city is overshadowed by Cairns but has a charming town centre, lively restaurant scene, terrific waterfront and relaxed vibe. Sights include Reef HQ Aquarium, Museum of Tropical Queensland and nearby Magnetic Island. Waterfall-draped Paluma Range National Park is an hour north. See townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au
EDEN, NSW
One of Australia's more recent cruise ports sits on the sumptuous Sapphire Coast with Ben Boyd National Park just around the bay. Walk into town to sample oysters before visiting the Killer Whale Museum. Whale-watching is a popular excursion; penguins and seals are also spotted. See visiteden.com.au
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