This was published 7 years ago
Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico: The hotel where it only takes 10 minutes to decide you're in paradise
By Ute Junker
Drift into deep relaxation by the pool at Las Ventanas al Paraiso.Credit: Blake Marvin
Ten minutes. That's how long it takes for me to decide that Las Ventanas al Paraiso is one of the best hotels I've ever stayed in. And it's three little things that lead me to that conclusion.
First, there is the freshly made margarita shot that greets me on arrival (not to mention the very prompt offer of a follow-up). Secondly, there is the detour we take on the way to my room, stopping in at the spa for a complimentary 10-minute neck and shoulder massage. And thirdly, there is the fact that even before we even leave the lobby, a helpful staffer volunteers to – nay, insists on – carrying my handbag for me.
"You are here to relax," she informs, as takes the bag off me.
Colourful murals line the walls of La Paz.
Now that's what I call a welcome.
Here in Los Cabos, they have had plenty of time to perfect the art of the welcome. Located on Baja California, the thin peninsula that runs parallel to Mexico's west coast, the area is a favourite retreat for holidaymakers from the more famous California north of the border.
The twin towns of Cabos San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo are the best-known destinations, but the most exclusive properties lie between the two. That's where Hollywood A-listers like Aniston and Clooney have holiday homes – LA is just 2½ hours away by plane – and that's also where you will find such luxurious retreats as Las Ventanas.
La Paz's historic cathedral.Credit: Alejandro Rivas S?nchez
Las Ventanas is designed for cocooning couples. It even has a romance manager, who turns out to be pretty creative. Just last week, I'm told, he was asked to organise a surprise present for one guest's girlfriend. During their meal, a wrapped parcel was delivered to their table. Inside was a nondescript device with one large button. When she pressed it, it set off a massive fireworks display. Nice.
Here, doing nothing is an art form. Mornings are spent lying by the pool, afternoons in the expansive spa. In between, it's all about eating. Lunch is at the waterfront Sea Grill, where the only thing that stops me from stuffing myself with delicious ceviche, seafood tacos and guacamole made right at the table is my self-imposed task of working my way through an extensive menu of home-made gelatos.
Dinners at El Restaurante are equally memorable. Salt comes in three separate flavours: hibiscus flower, taco ash and grasshopper. Tacos can be served, like pappadums at an Indian restaurant, as a pre-meal snack, or Oaxacan style, teamed with delicious tatemada sauce, made with onion, tomato and jalapenos charred over an open flame.
El Restaurante at Las Ventanas al Paraiso showcases food from around Mexico.
Each of the kitchen team has contributed regional recipes to the pan-Mexican menu. One of my favourites is a lamb dish from Chiapas, slow-cooked with green tomatillo, ancho guajillo chile, olives and raisins.
Tempting as it is to hole up in Las Ventanas, I have come here for on a quest to get up close and personal with the local marine life. The Sea of Cortez, which laps up against the peninsula, is known for having some of the most spectacular marine life in the world; Jacques Cousteau dubbed it "the world's aquarium".
There are plenty of options to choose from. Family friendly cruises from Cabo San Lucas take you past fur seal colonies and let you snorkel amid reef fish. Other cruises take fishermen out to where marlin and sailfish sport, or send divers into deep waters to encounter tuna, rays, sharks and even migrating whales.
Swimming with the whale sharks is a highlight of any visit to Baja California.
My highlight is a day trip up to La Paz to go swimming with the whale sharks. La Paz may be the state capital but it is a laidback place where local ranchers wear cowboy gear and colourful murals cover the walls. After a walking tour taking in the town's highlights, I head to the ocean. There are no large cruise boats here: instead, my two-man crew and I head out onto the shallow bay in a small tinny. We haven't been puttering along for more than 10 minutes when our spotter calls out, "There's one!"
The whale sharks in this bay are juveniles, which means they are only about eight metres long. They seem unconcerned when we hop in the water to swim alongside them; indeed, one of them returns over and over again, seemingly curious about these tiny two-legged creatures thrashing along at the surface. For my part, I am mesmerised both by their astonishing size and the way they glide effortlessly through the water. This beats an afternoon in the spa, no contest.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Flying time from LA to Los Cabos is around 2½ hours. Airlines include United, American and Alaska.
STAYING THERE
Rates at Las Ventanas al Paraiso start from $US575, see rosewoodhotels.com/en/las-ventanas-los-cabos
EATING THERE
The charming town of San Jose del Cabo is home to several excellent restaurants. Try the trendy La Lupita for tacos and mezcal, or the elegant Flora's Field Kitchen, which grows all its own organic produce. See facebook.com/lalupitatacoymezcal, www.flora-farms.com
TOURING THERE
RED Adventures offers a range of day trips and multi-day itineraries through Baja California. See www.redtravelmexico.com
Ute Junker was a guest of Los Cabos Tourism Board.
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