Balmain Wharf Apartments, Balmain East review: At home on the waterfront

Now that that's been cleared up, it's time to explore our chic pad.

Built in 1841 by shipwright John Bell, it was the first building in Balmain's main thoroughfare and then the peninsula's first pub.

It was delicensed in 1966 and repurposed as a commercial and residential property, before being redeveloped into its current five-apartment set-up.

But it's still easy to imagine The Dolphin's (and later The Shipwright's Arms') thirsty patrons ending their day with a cleansing ale; blessedly, it hasn't been restored to completely sterilise any of its gritty past. The structure is relatively unchanged - there are exposed wooden beams in the ceiling and the sandstone walls have been retained, adding to the feeling that you're living in a little piece of history. If only those wonderful sandstone walls could talk, they'd tell some fascinating stories.

And - although there are a couple of luxurious rugs, some groovy artefacts and a vase of fresh white daisies, as well as the modern comforts you would expect in a schmick waterfront apartment - the decor is minimalist, making use of the hero feature - that view.

There's a cosy balcony from which to watch the ships pass, as well as wall-length windows fronting the water. The wharf is a few steps from the front door - jump on the ferry and be at Darling Harbour, Luna Park or the Sydney Aquarium in minutes.

We had forgotten the very special appeal of holidaying in the lesser-known pockets of your own home city. Balmain is an area we haven't spent a lot of time in but one that we all really should have.

There's a very thorough local guide in the apartment - something that is all too lacking in many great accommodations - and we set out exploring straight away. Beers at the locals' pub, The London Hotel, is followed by a yummy cheese plate and G&Ts at the newish (and excellent) The Cottage Bar and Kitchen. Dinner is at the iconic Spice I Am. All without leaving the bustling Darling Street strip.

By day, there's excellent shopping: from the busy Balmain and Rozelle markets to a wide variety of cute homewares and trendy fashion boutiques, and well-respected art galleries. Service is friendly and unobtrusive and it is fun to act like an out-of-town tourist.

It's a wonderful stroll up the street, past all the great buildings - a mix of history and modern architecture. It's easy to picture yourself doing the same stroll 150 years ago, past all the historic homesteads and intact workman's cottages. It almost makes you pine for a simpler, less crowded life.

Until you get home to your magnificent modern waterfront penthouse, that is.

The writer was a guest of Destinations NSW and Balmain Wharf Apartments.

Trip notes

Where The Shipwright Suite, Balmain Wharf Apartments, 10 Darling Street, Balmain East. (02) 4455 3044, balmainwharf.com.au.

Getting there A hop skip and a jump west of Sydney.

How much $450 a night, typical minimum stay period is seven nights.

Perfect for A luxurious, historical, waterside, cityside escape.

Don't forget The gourmet kitchen is well equipped; invite some friends over for a breathtaking harbourside meal.

Shame about The buses. The bloody buses, from dawn to midnight. Either plan to stay out most of the night or bring earplugs if you're hoping to get some decent sleep.

Kudos Very thorough guide to the local highlights and a bountiful welcome basket of culinary delights and wine.

Take the kids Not to Shipwrights. The Bastion is the only two-bedroom apartment of the five. But - and I love kids - this is one you might prefer to keep all to yourselves.