Beaches and baguettes

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This was published 12 years ago

Beaches and baguettes

Noumea sights ... a pretty young Kanak girl.

Noumea sights ... a pretty young Kanak girl.

For a couple of bucks, Kerry van der Jagt makes like a local on a 12-hour tour to explore the colonial history of this Pacific island.

NOUMEA, New Caledonia's sultry seaside city, is famed for its beaches, baguettes and duty-free wines from Bordeaux. Stroll around the marina, with its luxury yachts and flapping French flags, and it's easy to imagine you're in the south of France. But strip back the whitewash and you'll uncover a colourful composite of European elegance and indigenous Kanak culture blended with the subtle influences of new arrivals from Vietnam and Indonesia. A good way to appreciate this kaleidoscope is to travel like the locals do - by public bus.

The green bus route, which loops between the tourist hub of Anse Vata Beach and the city centre, not only stops at the major attractions but offers a portal into the daily lives of the city's residents. And the best bit? It's a set price per trip, about 200 CFP francs ($2). For the price of a coffee and a ham croissant, you can stay out all day.

Noumea's fruit market.

Noumea's fruit market.Credit: New Caledonia Tourism

7am

Forget the boring bain-marie breakfast at your Anse Vata hotel and take the bus to Port Moselle for Noumea's morning markets. (The red-and-white Karuia city bus comes every 17 minutes - green route, bus No.1.)

Here, smiling Kanak women dressed in flowery muumuus sell fresh papaya, pineapple and passionfruit while beside them men with handlebar moustaches serve coronary-inducing croissants and steaming coffees. Nearby, the seafood stalls heave with activity as salty sea dogs haggle with locals over a fair price for their freshly caught fish. Jewellery, handicrafts and clothing are also on sale.

Windsurf boards lined up at Anse Vata

Windsurf boards lined up at Anse Vata

For designer clothes head to Noumea's boutique shopping district, four or five blocks north of the port. Visit Rue Georges Clemenceau, Rue de l'Alma and Rue Jean Jaures. Most shops don't open until 9.30am.

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Noumea market, Port Moselle Marina, open daily, from 5am until 11am (closed the third Monday of the month).

11am

Playing in the waters of Anse Vata Beach.

Playing in the waters of Anse Vata Beach.Credit: Ruth Duncan

From Port Moselle, it's an easy 10-minute walk north to La Place des Cocotiers (Coconut Place), Noumea's central garden square. Nowhere is Noumea's past and present more evident than here; old French men play boules in the shadow of a European-style fountain, young Asian teens practise hip-hop inside the rotunda, well-dressed office girls giggle over their morning coffees.

It wasn't always so pleasant. In 1853, under orders from Napoleon III, France took possession of New Caledonia, subjugated the Kanaks and issued 30,000 French convicts with a one-way ticket to paradise. To learn more about this era, follow the four-kilometre self-guided Historical Walking Trail, which starts at the Municipal Museum (maps available at the tourism office).

Tourism Office, 14 Rue Jean Jaures, centre-ville, open daily, 9am-5pm. office -tourisme.nc.

1pm

In order to refuel, stop at the Latin Quarter (which is also on the Heritage Trail), a grotty, grungy neighbourhood popular with well-heeled residents for its traditional French restaurants. Tucked between an old cottage and a dilapidated office block is La Chaumiere, one of the busiest and best. The decor is warm and welcoming, as are the staff.

There's a three-course set lunch or dinner menu for 3280 francs.

Try the goat's cheese roulade provincial-style for starters, duck thigh braised with a creamy tarragon sauce for main and a pear pavarois with a melting chocolate centre for dessert.

With more than a dozen choices per course and service tax included, this is a bargain.

La Chaumiere, 13 Rue du Dr Guegan, Quartier Latin, +687272462.

3pm

Time for a little relaxation. From the Latin Quarter it's an easy walk to either the central bus station at Coconut Place or Port Moselle (which is quicker). Practise the phrase, "Ou est ce que je peux prendre un bus?" - Where can I take a bus? - hand over 210 francs (green route, No.1) and take the stop-start journey to either Baie des Citrons or Anse Vata Beach for some serious sun worshipping. Both spots are perfect for a late-afternoon swim followed by a couple of locally brewed Number One beers.

A beer costs about 500 francs, the people watching is free.

7pm

Finish the day at La Bodega del Mar on Anse Vata Beach, a Spanish-themed, over-water tapas bar serving up rum cocktails with plenty of punch. With the water lapping under the floorboards, posters of rock stars and live music and DJs every night, La Bodega draws a young, hip crowd. Try the aubergines grilled with goat's cheese and honey on toasted sourdough, chorizo and lamb with cumin. Each tapas plate costs 700-900 francs, while a rum cocktail will set you back 1200 francs.

Open Tuesday-Saturday from 5pm till late. bodega.nc.

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