This was published 14 years ago
Beeches On High, Beechworth review: A little bit country
Design of the times ... Beeches On High retains period features.
Gary Munro escapes the city to indulge in secret wineries and finds the locals most hospitable.
I'm standing with a friend in the dimly lit cellar of a Beechworth winery (it's our secret; I'm not giving it away), tasting and chatting to the winemaker. We're keen to try a particular drop, for which the winery's renowned, but it's sold out. As an alternative, our host asks, would we fancy tasting the next vintage straight out of the barrel? Yes, we would.
That's country hospitality and there's plenty of it in Beechworth, a town that has enough going for it in the aesthetics department alone.
We had arrived late the previous afternoon, leaving Melbourne early to avoid Friday traffic.
Located across the road from the historic reserve, Beeches On High (built about 1870) has been nicely restored, with the paintwork particularly detailed. Off the central hallway are the three bedrooms, all with a double or queen bed (two have an additional single) and a formal, cosy living area with a sofa, armchair, coffee table, TV, DVD/video player - handy for the four children in our group - open fireplace and a selection of books and magazines.
At the end of the hallway, through the child safety gate, a set of rather hairy wooden stairs (a sign warns of the dangers of negotiating them in socks) descends to the kitchen, with its electric stove top located where once the wood-burning oven would have been, recessed under a chimney.
A shorter hallway off the kitchen leads to the toilet at the end and off to the side is the spacious bathroom with the shower, separate spa bath, washing machine and dryer.
Downstairs also has the long, narrow, granite-walled dining room and living area, with a large, rectangular wooden table with bench seats, armchairs, a sofa, a TV and DVD player and a wood burner at the far end. It's quirky and a little dark (useful for summer) but rather charming.
There are open fireplaces and a split-cycle system but none are required on our stay.
Out the back door and past the barbecue is the sheltered yard with a covered outdoor dining area. A secured gate leads down to the tree-lined Spring Creek, where there is a small platform that the kids take to right away, particularly when the ducks head over expecting a slice or two of bread.
After our friends arrive with their children, we get dinner under way. The kitchen is relatively well stocked, although we're glad we brought a decent sharp knife and there's no wooden spoon to be found. Children fed and (eventually) in bed, we gather around the dining table for grown-up time, which involves a little (too much) wine.
The next day we wander to the main street to check out the action, or lack of it. It's quiet, the sleepy atmosphere adding to the historic splendour. The area is renowned for its culinary delights and Provenance, named best new country restaurant in The Age Good Food Guide 2010, is here.
We opt for pizzas at Bridge Road Brewers, the ideal accompaniment for the excellent beer that's brewed on-site.
The remainder of the day is spent relaxing in Beeches On High's backyard, broken up by that visit to the (secret) winery and a dads-and-kids wander around a few of the town's historic sites. The old cells across the road in the historic precinct prove a hit We reluctantly leave the following morning, taking an alternate route and stopping for lunch at Baileys of Glenrowan winery.
VISITORS' BOOK
Beeches On High
Address 68 High Street, Beechworth.
Bookings contact@beechesonhigh .com.au; 0418 321 226.
Getting there Three hours' drive north-east of Melbourne, via Hume Freeway. Turn off at Wangaratta.
Price $676 for four adults and four children for two nights.
Summary In a great location across the road from the historic reserve behind Beechworth's main street, the restored house is a step back in time and is good for family groups.
Verdict 16
The score: 19-20 excellent; 17-18 great; 15-16 good; 13-14 comfortable.
All weekends away are conducted anonymously and paid for by Traveller.
Sign up for the Traveller newsletter
The latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.