Below zero ... Queenstown Mall is at the centre of the South Island's off-snow action.
Snow-capped mountains are just the start of the adventure in Queenstown, writes Debbie Neilson-Hunter.
This winter, New Zealand's Southern Alps will lure thousands of diehard Australian skiers and snowboarders across the Tasman.
Many will head to the treeless runs of Coronet Peak, with stunning views of the Wakatipu Basin, or the more challenging (and sunnier) bowls and chutes of The Remarkables across the valley.
It's not just the world-class skiing that attracts them. These two mountain resorts are close to Queenstown - the hub of the South Island's off-snow action.
With a superb range of accommodation, restaurants, apres-ski bars, designer and budget shopping, day spa and adventure options, there are plenty of ways to let your hair down when you've taken off the skis. Here's a taste of what's in store.
Jet-setter's cruise
Temperatures never get low enough to freeze over the town's picturesque centrepiece, Lake Wakatipu, and the ever-present trail of foamy spirals and swirls you'll see etched into the surface like a Maori warrior's tattoo are likely to come from the twin engines of a KJet.
One of Kawarau Jet's fleet of unmistakable bright-yellow boats leaves every hour from the town's pier, which lies opposite the designer-chic Eichardts Private Hotel.
I queue here briefly to receive my oversized waterproof coat and snug life jacket before I'm squeezed into one of four rows of five on the jet boat. As soon as our group photo is taken, the driver - with a wicked gleam in his eye - revs the engines. First we cruise at a gentle pace to give us time to admire a new perspective of Queenstown's shoreline, its Oscar-winning backdrop and the vintage steamship, TSS Earnslaw, as she pulls into Steamer Wharf.
But once we clear traffic we gather vision-blurring speed - reaching 80 km/h. We're soon skimming over less than 10 centimetres of gin-clear water, skirting rocky canyon walls with just centimetres to spare, weaving between the overhanging branches of willow trees and breathlessly spinning 360 degrees like an Olympic ice skater.
Our raincoats (and heated handlebars) serve their purpose well when icy water hits those of us sitting on the outside edge. In an hour the tour covers 43 kilometres, snaking upstream along the Kawarau River towards the Remarkables Range and then along the narrow bends and turns of the Shotover River. A brief commentary stop gives us a chance to whip out stowed cameras before we dart and spin like a wayward rocket downstream. The wind manages to tug my beanie loose, tossing it away like a tourist's coin in Rome's Trevi Fountain.
Any chance of a graceful exit was wishful thinking. While my jet boat ticket allows me entry into the Pier's underwater observatory post-ride, I decide to skip a trout's-eye view of Lake Wakatipu for some emergency shopping.
See kjet.co.nz.
Steamy affair
A less hair-raising (but certainly spine-tingling) way to view the action on the Shotover River is from a private temperature-controlled hot tub.
Filled with heated alpine spring water, jets of air gently massage my tired ski legs, bruised buttocks and aching back while I relax and marvel at the almost balletic performance of the jet boats skimming the river's surface from my cliff-top position.
A drop of rain doesn't distract me. The automated panoramic windows soon transform this breezy outdoor setting to a cosy indoor one.
The Onsen Hot Pools at Arthurs Point has six private cedar-lined pool rooms that can accommodate up to four people. En route to Coronet Peak, this is the ideal place to unwind once the ski lifts have stopped. And on the clearest of winter nights, the stars shimmering above and slivers of moonlight mirrored on the river provide a stunning setting for romantics (even more special if you book the candlelight package). The pools are open 10am-11pm.
See onsen.co.nz.
Unwind time
Queenstown is distinctive for its cobbled laneways and mysterious unmarked doorways, which often reveal some of the best wining and dining in the country. But the modest portal next to the Sofitel hotel's main entrance has another surprise in store.
At first I think I've wandered into a C.S. Lewis-inspired magic wardrobe as I follow the trail of snow-white pebbles and paving stones up to the iceberg-like reception desk.
This is Queenstown's first international branded five-star hotel spa. Beyond my smiling hostess are three single treatment rooms and two rooms for couples, plus a hammam steam room and jacuzzi.
French and local products from the Central Otago region are used in a range of treatments from facials, scrubs and massage to manicures and pedicures. My visit here soon proves the ideal warm-down after my first ski in ages. Le Spa's signature Ataahua treatment is every bit as enchanting as the decor promises. First I'm scrubbed with sugar, rice bran and jojoba, then wrapped in a blend of Manuka honey and Rotorua geothermal mud designed to smooth, cleanse and detoxify. After rinsing off, my back, neck and shoulders are massaged with honey, jojoba and macadamia oil. I float back to Le Spa's relaxation lounge 90 minutes later as shiny as a Christmas bauble.
See sofitel.com.
And more
Apres-ski bars
Chill out at Barmuda, Bardeaux or Bar Up with a warming gluhwein, vintage wine or champagne beside a roaring fire.
Dining out
For a taste of prime New Zealand beef in a burger, head to Fergberger on Shotover Street. The Vudu Cafe has become a popular lunch spot on Beach Street for its organic food and great coffee. Internet available. For dinner, head to the Botswana Butchery within the historic Archers Cottage on Marine Parade. It serves a delicious selection of seafood, poultry and game dishes but the steaks have made this place a local favourite. Discover more great produce at Pier 19 cafe-bar-restaurant at Steamer Wharf. Discerning diners should also book a table at the True South Dining Room at the new Rees Hotel and Luxury Apartments for its a la carte and degustation menu designed by Bristol-born chef Ben Batterbury.
Shopping
See the creations of New Zealand's best designers at Angel Divine (Searle Lane), Goddess (in the Mall) and the eclectic Vesta Design Store in the heritage Williams Cottage on Marine Parade.
Art and architecture
Within the recently restored Mountaineer Building on Rees Street is a modern art gallery as well as shops, a spa and nail bar, and delicatessen.
The writer travelled courtesy Pacific Blue, NZSki.com and Destination Queenstown.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Pacific Blue flies non-stop from Sydney to Queenstown (about 3hr) for about $269 one way, including tax (Tuesdays and Saturdays). Melbourne passengers can fly non-stop once a week (seasonal, 3hr) for about $343 one way, including tax.
Getting around
Shuttle buses to Coronet Peak and the Remarkables leave every 15 minutes between 7am and 10am and then every 30 minutes from the centre of town (outside the Queenstown Snow Centre on Duke Street) and selected hotels. See connectabus.com.
Staying there
Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa has standard rooms from $NZ289 ($236), 8 Duke Street, see sofitel.com. The Rees has standard rooms from $NZ185, 377 Frankton Road, see therees.co.nz.
Skiing there Book lift tickets to Coronet Peak and the Remarkables at nzski.com. Discounts are also available on lessons and rentals.
More information
See queenstown-nz.co.nz.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.