Boutique beauty, uncorked

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This was published 12 years ago

Boutique beauty, uncorked

Jingella cottage's interior.

Jingella cottage's interior.

Peter Vincent learns that a little wine label goes a long way to provide a city-style stay in the Hunter Valley.

EVERYONE knows the Hunter Valley is synonymous with great whites - of the bottled variety. But who really wants to drive for three hours to try wines you can find at any Sydney bottle shop? For many, part of the adventure of visiting a wine district is less about juggernaut winemakers such as Brokenwood or McWilliam's and more about "discovering" quaffable wines from that blink-and-you'll-miss-it vineyard.

Ridgeview, just out of Pokolbin, is a boutique vineyard, with accommodation, which produces seven varieties planted on 8.9 hectares. Although Ridgeview is only 10 years old, it has claimed more than 300 awards at regional wine shows, with its 2006 reserve shiraz the biggest winner (it picked up best young shiraz at the 2009 NSW Wine Awards).

Clear winner ... Ridgeview's pool.

Clear winner ... Ridgeview's pool.

Big deal, you say - doesn't every vineyard worth a look win awards? True, but when you are staying on site, the walk to the cellar door seems that much shorter when the wine is excellent.

Staying beside the vines (don't believe anyone's marketing fluff that you can stay "amidst the vines" - nobody does that) is a widely available option in the Hunter. But not many have accommodation to match Ridgeview's fabulous executive-style cottages, Jingella and Warrina.

Too often cottage accommodation is poky and the dated ambience is excused by the label "rustic". Our cottage for two nights, Jingella, doesn't promise much from the outside but before we put our bags down, we can see that this place is something special.

It's open plan and spacious, with most features way above the quality you'll usually find outside of Sydney. In fact, this feels a lot like a studio apartment in a decent Sydney five-star hotel. It has a chic white-tiled bathroom with two-person, glass-frame shower and deep spa bath, and an adjacent bedroom with comfy queen-sized bed, flat-screen TV and sound system. The decor throughout is contemporary but warm and complemented by soft lighting.

There's a fully equipped kitchen and a country-style lounge with big chocolate-leather sofa, bigger flat-screen TV and slow-combustion heater. Out on the covered porch is a huge above-ground spa, two-person sauna and barbecue. A tennis/basketball court, wet-edge pool and rowboat (moored on the man-made lake) give the accommodation area a resort feel.

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We chat to the owners, as you do, and it becomes apparent the Ridgeview story is one of vision and bloody-minded determination.

Co-owner Darren Scott is a Sydney dentist who travels to the property to work on it every weekend. His wife Tracey (and four children) stayed on site in a tent and caravan for three years while they established the vineyards.

A decade on, Ridgeview is set up to cater for wedding parties - there are three other cottages (one of which is the equal of Jingella while the other two are older and more basic) dotted around a man-made lake. Up to 12 people can stay on the property, although another three luxury cottages are planned. It's easy to imagine its outstanding 110-seater restaurant, cleverly oriented to face rows of vines running up a ridge, as a great spot for a memorable reception.

It's not just the view that works; chefs Tim Suffell and Michael Lee have developed a simple but outstanding Cypriot-inspired menu. My partner and I started with pork belly sausage on grilled haloumi and octopus with "peasant" potatoes - both were beautifully tender. Our mains were a beef cheek pie with broccolini and a salsa chicken roulade on a bed of lentils and confit tomato. Desserts were Belgian chocolate fondants with pistachio ice-cream and a strawberry tart with confit of coffee mascarpone. Without hesitation, we both agreed this was a hatted restaurant-quality experience.

Plans for an organic vege and herb patch and free-range hens to provide the kitchen with produce are in keeping with the foodie focus. Likewise, Darren and Tracey aim to establish an on-site winery "within five years". It's worth noting that the couple caught the wine bug after visiting the Hunter at weekends - and getting to know locals at boutique wineries. If you're not careful you'll end up the same way.

The writer was a guest of Ridgeview and Tourism NSW.

Trip notes

Where 273 Sweetwater Road, Rothbury, Hunter Valley. 0419 475 221, ridgeview.com.au.

Getting there Turn off the F3 at Freemans Waterhole, follow signs to Cessnock, turn right into Vincent Street, left into Wollombi Road then immediately right into Wine Country Drive. After 10 minutes, turn left onto Old North Road, then right into Sweetwater Road.

How much Between $350 and $750 a couple for two nights. Two-night minimum stay.

Style statement Laid-back and uber-comfortable executive suite.

Perfect for Wedding accommodation and a reception venue.

Don't forget Unless you want to pay for the restaurant at every meal, bring food and drinks. The cottages are self-catering.

Shame about The lack of drinking water provided. A six-pack of bottled water in the cupboard wouldn't cost much.

Kudos For Excellent wines and food ... and for bringing us fresh farm eggs.

Take the kids? Two of the cottages are suitable for families and there is a basketball/tennis court to keep energetic kids busy.

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