This was published 14 years ago
Briars Country Lodge and Inn, Bowral review: Heir and heirlooms
Highland fling ... drinks by the open fire.Credit: Guy Adamson
Jordan Baker finds a country hotel that suits three generations of her family.
It is like being a kid again – mum driving, nan in the passenger's seat and me squashed in the back, sucking sweets from nan's inexhaustible supply.
The three of us have spent many weekends together in the Blue Mountains, browsing antique shops and sipping chocolate at the Paragon. This time we opt for something different and head to the Southern Highlands.
We set off on a chilly Saturday morning, fighting weekend gridlock through Sydney until we hit the Hume Highway and motor south through the pretty countryside from Bowral towards Moss Vale. Our hotel is about halfway between the two towns.
We spot the Briars from the road. The Tudor-style pub was built in 1895 and is one of the region's landmarks. We are to stay in one of the modern townhouses tucked behind it.
Our large room is decorated in earthy greens and browns, with a leaf motif. There are twin beds for mum and nan and, as usual, a slightly uncomfortable trundle for me. Oil heaters warm the room (once we figure out how to turn them on) and there are local wines in the fridge for sale. Afternoon sun streams in through tall glass windows, which look across green lawns, a pagoda and a pond.
We are pleased with mum's choice – even nan, who will never quite be satisfied with a hotel room unless it overlooks Hong Kong harbour.
My grandmother and I are tempted to stay inside all afternoon; the room is warm, there are newspapers to read and cream buns to eat. But the region's antique shops are beckoning my mother, so she ushers us into the car and we head off towards the tourist town of Berrima.
Mum and I last visited Berrima about 20 years ago, when her bidding war over a blanket box passed into family legend. There are just as many cutesy knick-knack shops and cafes now and, despite the recession, their owners are still selling redundant objects at gob-smacking prices ($5 for a handful of mismatching second-hand buttons is a personal favourite).
We browse a few shops, where the shelves are piled high with vintage tablecloths, napkins and ribbons. We marvel more at the prices than the products, then stop for a late lunch. We choose the Magpie Cafe, which is beautifully decorated with antiques, elaborate mirrors and linen tablecloths. Unfortunately, our tablecloth is dirty and we wait a long time for service. And again I'm stunned by the expense: the soup is $14 and the steak sandwich $19.
Back at the hotel, we settle with newspapers in front of the open fire. Our dinner booking in the hotel restaurant is at 8pm; at 7.30 we wander to the bar for a glass of pinot. The bar is warm and cosy, with leather couches, intimate tables and an open fire. We walk past the barbecue where guests can cook their own meat, wondering why anyone would want to do that, and order generous, tasty steaks from the restaurant's a la carte menu, loading our plates at the salad bar. The bill comes to about $100 for three, which seems like good value for big meals and a glass of wine each.
We go to bed early and wake late. Again, we wander to the pub, this time for breakfast, included in the tariff. There are white tablecloths, a hot food bar and a buffet table with dried fruit, toast and cereals.
My brother has driven from Canberra to join us for breakfast; he pays $20 at the door, which seems reasonable for such a spread.
He refuses, however, to join us for more antique shopping, which somehow seems to surprise mum. We stop at the wonderful Mittagong Antiques Centre and, as is our custom, I head straight to the vintage dresses, nan wanders down memory lane and mum stops at every piece of furniture and wonders how it would look in her lounge room.
Next stop is Centennial Vineyards, one of several in the region and recommended by a colleague. It is a beautiful homestead on a hill surrounded by vines just outside Bowral.
It specialises in chardonnay, riesling and sparkling – three of my favourites. There's a restaurant that looks like the perfect place to spend a tipsy afternoon with friends. But it's not quite the location for lunch with the family, so we opt for a cafe in town.
Mum and nan are staying another night but I have to get back to Sydney for work. I kiss them both at the station and run for the train, feeling blessed.
Weekends Away are reviewed anonymously and paid for by Traveller.
VISITORS' BOOK
Briars Country Lodge and Inn
Address 653 Moss Vale Road, Bowral.
The verdict Stylish accommodation, good food and a quick trip from Sydney.
Price $260 for Saturday night, including breakfast; Friday night $190; midweek $160 a night.
Bookings Phone 4868 3566 or see briars.com.au.
Getting there Take the Hume Highway south of Sydney and then take the Bowral turn-off.
Perfect for A romantic — or family — weekend away.
Wheelchair access One room with fixtures for people with disabilities.
While you're there Visit antique shops, restaurants, wineries and gardens.
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