Brucedale Cottage, Peel review: Fireside tales of early heroes

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This was published 12 years ago

Brucedale Cottage, Peel review: Fireside tales of early heroes

Pedigree ... Brucedale.

Pedigree ... Brucedale.Credit: Anna Anderson

This gracious retreat has an eventful past but its contemporary tranquillity is better than therapy, writes Anna Anderson.

EARLY spring is a fine time to chase the chill over the Blue Mountains to Peel, where a farm gate and cattle grid at the turnoff to Brucedale Cottage suggest this property is no weekend folly.

A collection of sheds, utes, machinery and a pair of cattle dogs confirm our arrival at a working farm, albeit one with a fine Georgian residence. Brucedale is the Australian ancestral home of our hosts, David and Suzie Suttor. The undulating landscape of 1133 hectares is crowned by a handsome 1837-built homestead and alongside, its 1864-built guest cottage - our weekend getaway stay.

We dusty up our R.M. Williams boots and crunch along the gravel driveway. A feeble afternoon sun coaxes the temperature to 9 degrees but inside, the cottage is cosy thanks to a well-stocked slow-combustion fire.

My travel companion, Mr Pernickety, Fault-Finder Extraordinaire, does his white-glove thing while I delight in the architecture and charm of each room: a north-facing sitting room overlooking the garden and hills beyond, mini country-style kitchen, a well-appointed modern bathroom and a comfortable main bedroom with french doors to the verandah. When I find the pretty twin bedroom, I momentarily regret not bringing the teens but quickly recover my senses; it must be all the fresh air.

Mr P is trying his hardest to find fault; he settles on a repetitive electric click outside in a hayloft. It could be a deal breaker if you have a penchant for sleeping in barns.

We brew tea, plonk ourselves in deckchairs on the verandah and take in the view and silence. After about 10 minutes of unapplied meditation, I wonder whether I could claim a weekend at Brucedale Cottage on Medicare as I favourably compare Brucedale's tariff with the cost of a session on a shrink's sofa.

An eruption of cockatoos from one of the property's towering gums signals a visit from the Suttors. They've come to show us how to fuel the fire and we ask about family history. There's a collection of letters, diary entries, documents, drawings and photographs covering the history from botanist George Suttor's home on the banks of the Thames in the 1700s to his journey as a courier for Sir Joseph Banks to the "new" settlement.

Exquisitely scribed letters by Suttor describe the journey with his young family on HMS Porpoise, his reward of a land grant in Baulkham Hills, his petitions for more land out west and his arrival in Peel in 1823. The correspondence covers his support of Governor William Bligh during the Rum Rebellion and notes his respect for the indigenous landowners. There's also a video - it becomes our evening entertainment. The excellent SBS documentary First Australians confirms the significance of the Suttor family in the early history of the settlement and their amicable relationship with the original landowners, the Wiradjuri.

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The fire keeps the cottage warm into the morning. Instead of using the barbecue or driving to Bathurst for dinner the night before, we dined lightly on deli-bought soup so were keen to cook a breakfast worthy of a country squire. The kitchen was stocked with fresh fruit, yoghurt, organic muesli and bread, eggs, bacon, teas and coffee at a charge of $10 a person.

Our history lesson continued on Sunday, when we drove through Brucedale's paddocks to visit the grave of the Wiradjuri warrior Windradyne, a hero of early integration. Suttor family legend has it that Windradyne directed the Suttors to the region's rich soils circa 1822.

Some years later, when Windradyne came to the Suttors' door seeking revenge for the murder of family members by other farmers, George's son, William - both a friend of Windradyne's and fluent in Wiradjuri language - took the lead and the Suttor family was spared. Other settlers were killed and martial law was enforced, resulting in the deaths of many Aboriginal families. Windradyne evaded capture, walking 200 kilometres in 17 days with 140 of his clan to Parramatta. Stuck in his straw hat was a scrap of paper with the word "peace" inscribed. For this act of reconciliation, Windradyne was pardoned. His grave is heritage listed and his descendants take visitors to the site.

The writer was a guest of Brucedale and Tourism NSW.

Trip notes

Where Brucedale Cottage, 1361 Sofala Road, Peel. 6337 6508; 0429 202 401, brucedale.com.au.

Getting there Take the highway to Bathurst. Turn right at Gilmour Street and follow this road for 11.6 kilometres towards Peel.

How much Weekends are $275 a night for two people, with a minimum of two-night stays. Breakfast supplies are available for $10 a person.

Style statement Georgian comfort in a bucolic landscape.

Perfect for History lessons and settler architecture.

Kudos The restoration of the cottage and main house is National Trust award-winning.

Don't forget To bring along a picnic basket.

A shame about No bathtub in the near-new bathroom.

Take the kids? Yes, they'll love feeding the birds and teasing the bulls (from the safe side of the fence).

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