Bunyip and Garfield, West Gippsland, things to do: 80 minutes by train on a food-tasting day trip

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Bunyip and Garfield, West Gippsland, things to do: 80 minutes by train on a food-tasting day trip

By Tim Richards
Bunyip's main street.

Bunyip's main street.Credit: West Gippsland Progress Association

"We should do this more often."

My wife Narrelle and I have just made the unexpectedly steep hike up from Bunyip railway station to the town's main street, and I'm enjoying the fresh country air. The climb has been worth it for the view, as we look south across the tracks toward sporting fields, gum trees and grazing cows, and the hills beyond them.

We reached Bunyip on a V/Line train, taking some 80 minutes to travel from Melbourne's Southern Cross Station to the farming region of West Gippsland. As V/Line's country trains use the same Myki card as the city's public transport, it's easy to head here for a DIY food-tasting day trip.

Cannibal Creek Bakehouse uses an oven from the 1890s.

Cannibal Creek Bakehouse uses an oven from the 1890s.Credit: West Gippsland Progress Association

Our first stop is Biddy Martha's, a cafe in an atmospheric former butcher's shop with timber-plank tables, old-school wooden doorframes and a big window overlooking the town and the trees beyond. Co-owner Gavin Saunders tells us the curious name is a homage to his grandmother, who had the nickname "Biddy".

The menu is on a board above the counter, and includes local ingredients such as free-range eggs, cheese and yoghurt. There are also ham and sausages sourced from Country Style Meats in nearby Garfield.

I order scrambled eggs with mushrooms and goat's cheese (I love the taste collision of the hot egg and cold cheese) and Narrelle opts for the cacao nut granola with seasonal fruit and local organic yoghurt. Not for the first time I'm jealous of her choice, and on cadging a sample I'm impressed – just a hint of chocolate from the cacao, and excellent fresh fruit.

Walking back to the station we have a browse at Bunyip Makers Market, packed with locally-made items including rugs, hats, and novelty cushions featuring your favourite AFL team. Then it's a three-minute ride to the town of Garfield.

Garfield is the vision of an ideal village, with the railway line on one side of its main drag and a row of old-fashioned shopfronts along the other. At Country Style Meats there's a fridge of house-made smallgoods including jerky and kabana, which could form part of an al fresco lunch at the picnic tables along the street. And next door is Lulu's Lolly Shop, where you can pick up sweet treats ranging from the classics (licorice all-sorts, aniseed balls, sugared almonds) to the decidedly modern (a bubble gum called Possum Poop).

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For lunch we're heading to the excellently named Little Miss Hangry, a cafe run by mother-and-son team Kris Ruddell and Mitch Johnstone. It's in a charming former home with pressed-tin ceilings and walls, and an enclosed terrace popular with dog owners. The place exudes a friendly vibe within its various nooks and crannies.

"We're like a halfway point between city and country," says Mitch, taking a break from kitchen duties. "So we're often the place where families and friends catch up. That's what we're aiming at, good old country hospitality but with a creative menu."

From that menu I order the southern-fried chicken burger in an ink-black bun, while Narrelle goes for 'green eggs and ham', featuring slow-cooked ham over a sizeable rosti with poached eggs and a green hollandaise sauce. She's picked another winner, not least for its generous serving size.

Afternoon tea is taken at the other end of town, at Cannibal Creek Bakehouse. Stepping through the door of this old brick building I'm delighted to learn from owners David Rushton and Kane Warenycia that the oven they use dates from the 1890s. It's good to see such heritage not only surviving, but hard at work.

As it's a beautiful afternoon we sit in the garden which is dotted with picnic benches among trees and shrubs. In due course we have a train to catch back to the big city; but for now there's nothing better than sitting in the sunshine, sipping coffee and eating banana bread baked in that venerable oven.

THE DETAILS

MORE

westgippslandprogassoc.org.au

RIDE

West Gippsland is approximately an 80-minute V/Line train ride from Melbourne, for an off-peak one-way adult fare of $9.66. See ptv.vic.gov.au

STAY

Voco Melbourne Central is a stylish new hotel in the Melbourne CBD, with rooms from $265 a night. See vocohotels.com/melbourne

Tim Richards was hosted by the West Gippsland Progress Association.

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