Burbury Hotel, ACT review: Go for culture, stay for the bed

For years I have defended Canberra's layout, praising its wide avenues and talking up the benefits of roundabouts over traffic lights. So it's with a heavy heart that I stop the car on a quiet street near the National Archives late one Saturday night to phone the Burbury Hotel and ask where it is. I was born and bred in the nation's capital; I have stayed within a block of this place in the past few years and I still couldn't find it. Happily, the hotel receptionist's directions are clear. We arrive within minutes.

The Burbury, which opened in September, is the newest addition to the Realm precinct, an area that includes cafes, restaurants, apartments, a health club, day spa and hair salon.

At 106 rooms, the Burbury is smaller than the neighbouring Hotel Realm, and a smidge less swanky (it's 4½ stars). The reception area is quite small and dark. Shiny black surfaces make it appear even smaller and darker, and there's still a faint whiff of paint in the air. We drive to the car park under the building and take the lift to level three. The shiny black theme continues in the dimly lit corridors.

Our one-bedroom suite is divided into three areas: a long, narrow kitchen, a lounge-dining area, and a bedroom with king-size bed. There's also a small balcony off the bedroom and bathroom with frosted glass partitions separating the toilet and shower recess.

The kitchen has a full-size fridge, as well as a dishwasher, cooktop, microwave and basic cooking and coffee-making facilities. There's a four-seater glass-topped dining table but, strangely, only one very small, uncomfortable two-seater couch, plus another padded chair. In a room with such generous proportions (suites range from 67 to 82 square metres), it seems odd not to have somewhere more luxurious to relax.

In design terms, the room embraces the minimalist aesthetic almost to the point of sterility. There are no dimmers on the lights, no paintings on the walls and no cushions on the couch - not even a piece of fruit to brighten things up. My husband drapes himself awkwardly on the couch to watch the tennis through the Apple Mac mini system. Before long, he retires to the bedroom to watch the rest of the match in comfort.

The bed is outstanding - firm, with a feather-light mattress top, thick doona and soft waffle blanket. Top marks for the pillows, too. Usually the volume on hotel TVs can't be turned up past a certain point, but we can't turn ours down low enough to watch it in peace.

At least the room itself is whisper quiet. We don't hear a peep all night.

Next morning, a buffet breakfast is served on the hotel's seventh-floor terrace. It's a light-drenched space with tables inside and out. I graze on fresh fruit, crumpets and yoghurt, then come down with a bout of meal envy when my husband orders a fresh stack of pancakes. They're fluffy and fabulous. Made-to-order omelet is also included in the breakfast tariff. DIY coffee from a machine is less impressive.