UnspecifiedCredit: Lonely Planet Images
Unlike action capital Queenstown, Arrowtown is quaint, quiet and utterly fascinating, Guy Wilkinson writes.
BETWEEN the bare, twisted branches, the last few rays of sunlight are slowly disappearing. Standing knee-deep in freezing water, a frail Chinese man stoops over a pan while sifting through gravel, his eyes intent as he scans for any last traces of gold.
But all that's left is mud and twigs from the riverbed; they are worth nothing and tonight he will return home to his makeshift stone shack, hungry and empty-handed.
While the scene is unfolding only in my mind's eye, nearly 150 years ago it would almost certainly have been a reality. For the Chinese immigrant goldminers in Arrowtown, life was hard.
During the 1860s, thousands poured over from their homeland in the southern provinces of Guangdong in search of wealth and prosperity beyond their wildest dreams. At least one in seven died under the harsh conditions; the brutality of New Zealand's winter temperatures came to many as a shock that would ultimately cost them their lives.
Today, however, this impossibly quaint town is in stark contrast to the cruel realities of the gold rush. Strolling along its colourful main street, you could be forgiven for thinking you had stumbled onto the set of a Sergio Leone western, only a far more upmarket version of one.
Dotted among the cafes and restaurants serving scones and afternoon tea is a charming series of boutique shops and jewellery stores.
Wisps of chimney smoke snake from historic buildings towards the crisp, blue sky. A fake ram stands guard outside the High Country clothing store, while signposts point down alleyways cluttered with cafes, art galleries and deli sandwich shops.
Despite being only half an hour's drive from Queenstown (its more illustrious neighbour), this small, historic gem is likely to be overlooked by many people.
Certainly, if it's adrenaline-fuelled mayhem that you're after, then Arrowtown, with its modest population of just 1700, cannot compete. But those who crave a more relaxed vibe, somewhere away from the crowds, where you can take life at a slower pace for a day or two, are sure to love it.
Blowing the froth off a couple of ales in one of the town's cosy, oak beamed pubs, I take advantage of the leisurely atmosphere. The afternoon passes in blissfully laid-back fashion.
Besides sipping a schooner next to a crackling fire, flicking through the afternoon papers and a gentle stroll around the shops become the sum total of my efforts.
Later on I head to the nearby Chinese settlement to learn a little more about the town's founding history. A trail is marked with interpretive signs explaining the lives of the gold-diggers. Several huts have been restored to help complete an often bleak picture of what these men went through. Perhaps the most interesting is Ah Lums Store, the epicentre of the settlement which was used as a shop, a meeting place and, occasionally, a guesthouse. It is now divided into five rooms, with lofts above.
Earlier, when stopping to ask directions to the area, a shopkeeper had pointed to "the coldest, wettest place in town".
His words echoed through my head as I ducked in and out of the old shacks, imagining a bleak existence a million miles from my own.
Whether you consider yourself a history buff or not, the blurbs make for fascinating reading and it's worth making the effort to learn about the region's development.
But if all this sounds a little sedate for your liking, there are plenty of other options. At the helpful visitor centre, it's possible to arrange any number of outdoor activities.
Choose from horse trekking, fly-fishing, a round of golf or even treat yourself to a bird's eye view of the town from a hot air balloon.
When the time comes to move on, I feel as though I'm leaving another age. Arrowtown might not have the thrill factor of other New Zealand destinations (there are no bungy sites, skydives, or Fly By Wire to test your nerve against here).
But in an age where instant gratification is fast becoming the staple demand, that's also a significant part of its appeal.
TRIP NOTES
* Getting there: Qantas offers flights from Sydney to Queenstown at varying rates. Phone 131 313, or see http://www.qantas.com.au. Supersaver fares were quoted at approximately $500 one way for mid August. For other deals, see flightcentre.com.au. Arrowtown is a 30-minute drive north from Queenstown. Direct flights are offered by Air New Zealand between Queenstown and Auckland or Queenstown and Christchurch. See http://www.airnz.co.nz.
* Where to stay: Shades, phone 0011 643 442 1613, see http://www.shadesofarrowtown.co.nz. Arrowtown Lodge, phone 0011 643 442 1101, see http://www.arrowtownlodge.co.nz. Millbrook, phone 0011 643 441 7000, see http://www.millbrook.co.nz.
* Activities: Arrowtown visitors' centre, 49 Buckingham Street, open 8.30am-5pm, phone 0011 643 442 1824, see http://www.arrowtown.com. The visitors' centre can organise most activities for you.
Arrowtown Golf Course, phone 0011 643 442 1719, see www.arrowtown.nzgolf.net. Green fee approx $40, club hire $20.
* Where to drink: Blue Door. Stone layered walls, low ceilings and candlelight make an intimate setting for a pint; 18 Buckingham Street, phone 0011 643 442 0415. The Tap. Dates back to the gold rush, pool table, good selection of wines and beer; 51 Buckingham Street, phone 0011 643 442 1860.
* Where to eat: Saffron, Buckingham Street, phone 0011 643 442 0131. Cafe Mondo, Ballarat Arcade, Buckingham Street, phone 0011 643 442 0227. Pesto, 18 Buckingham Street, phone 0011 643 442 0885.
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