Christmas Island, Australia: Swell Lodge is a new eco-luxury retreat on Christmas Island

Much of the island is covered with old-growth forest, complete with springs and waterfalls, fern gullies and dense stands of pandanus. There are coastal blowholes and roadside grottos where you can swim in seawater washing in through underground caves. There are plenty of scenic hikes; my favourites include an easy walk to the lovely waterfall of Hugh's Dale, and a longer hike to Dolly Beach, where we enjoy a picnic lunch that also lures some curious robber crabs.

Then again, no matter what you do on Christmas Island, you can expect to encounter some crabs along the way. The photogenic red crabs stage a spectacular annual migration to the sea when they are ready to release their eggs. (The baby crabs stage an equally spectacular migration when they swarm up from the water to the land.) These migrations, which start about October when the rains come, draw visitors from all around the world, which the locals find hilarious.

"The weather's bad, it's difficult to get around because so many roads are closed [to protect the migrating crabs]; it is the worst time of year to visit," one local tells me.

You don't have to come during migration to see the crabs, however. There are so many of them strolling along the road that we regularly have to stop to push them out of the way. The first time my guide demonstrates how to move a fist-sized crab out of the way – you nudge it gently with your foot – I am hesitant, wary of its huge pincers. However, once I discover how placid the crabs are, I quickly develop an effective crab-removal technique.

It's not just red crabs we see. The island is home to many other species, including my favourite, the blue crab, a shy creature that has a lovely pearlescent colour and congregates near freshwater springs. Then there are the robber crabs, alien-looking creatures that come in a startling range of colours, from violet to deep purple to orange. The largest specimens are intimidating; with bodies up to 40 centimetres long, they can weigh as much as four kilograms. Fortunately, they are just as laid back as their smaller brethren.

If you prefer your animal encounters underwater, the coral reef that rings the island offers good opportunities for both snorkellers and divers. The ocean floor drops away so quickly from the island that divers in particular can expect to see plenty of pelagic fish.

Most of the island's beaches are covered with coral rather than sand, but each one has its own charms. When we visit Darling Dales, a thundering tide is washing over a series of beautiful rock pools.

"During low tide, those rock pools are a lovely place to sit," my guide, Kirsty, tells me. When we head to Merriall Beach, she shares with me the unofficial rule – if there is a car already parked at the top of the trail, you go somewhere else. I find out why when we eventually make it down to the pretty beach, a small patch of sand surrounded by dense bush. This really is a place where three is a crowd.

Kirsty is just one of the locals who shows me around. Although the lodge has a dedicated staff, the owners have also recruited locals to guide various excursions. Kirsty, for instance, is a photographer who specialises in showing off some of the island's most scenic spots; another of my guides, Rosie, is a PhD student studying how the island's birdlife is affected by the local rat population. All the guides are personable and generous about sharing their knowledge and their experiences; the opportunity to interact with them turns out to be one of the highlights of the trip.

Swell Lodge is the brainchild of Chris and Jess Bray, who know a thing or two about desirable destinations, given that their day job is running photography tours in places as far-flung as Alaska, Namibia, the Galapagos Islands and Norway.

"I first came to Christmas Island when I was about six, and I remembered it as a tropical paradise. When I came back as an adult, it was even better than I remembered," says Chris.

The Brays plan to expand Swell Lodge to eight chalets, but promise that each lodging will be carefully separated from the next, to preserve that sense of seclusion. Still, now is the time to come and experience Swell in its first incarnation as a one-of-a-kind retreat.

You don't have to spend your entire stay exploring the island, of course. If you prefer to spend some time unwinding, the lodge can also arrange in-room massages or sunset yoga on your deck. However, your most regular visitor will be Felix, the charming French chef who cooks your dinner for you. When the other chalets open, Felix will have a restaurant of his own; for now, he does home visits. Every evening he cooks up a three-course meal on the barbecue on the porch, showcasing ingredients he has foraged that day. One day it is bitter melon, which features in a delicious gazpacho; another day, it is papaya, done in a curry that accompanies tuna wrapped in banana leaves.

Room service never tasted this good.

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Ute Junker travelled as a guest of Swell Lodge.

FLY

Virgin Airlines flies twice a week from Perth to Christmas Island. See virginaustralia.com.au

STAY

Swell Lodge offers several packages, including the four-night Rainforest to Reef Explorer. Rates start at $2760 a person twin share, and include airport transfers, all meals and drinks, and daily activities, including guided walks, snorkelling on the reef and a free game of golf on the palm-studded golf course. Seven and three-night packages are also available. See swelllodge.com

See also: Australia's best island holidays: Top 20 island escapes

See also: Australia's most remote territories and how to visit them