This was published 1 year ago
Cologne's Kolner Dom cathedral, Germany: Once the tallest building in the world
By Daniel Fallon
Cologne Cathedral was once considered the tallest structure in the world, before the Washington Monument was erected in 1884.Credit: iStock
The Intercity Express train service from Brussels reduces speed as we approach our destination on the banks of the Rhine – Koln. I scoop up the last piece of Belgian chocolate cake that I have been savouring since we crossed into Germany and prepare to disembark.
A short time later, I'm embraced by Australian ex-pat Chris Lupton on platform 46 at Cologne Central Station. Chris, an old friend who lives in nearby Dusseldorf, is ready to show me some of this ancient city. Cologne is one of the oldest cities in Germany – its name is linked back to the Roman village of Colonia, which was established in 50 AD.
"How was your train trip?" he asks.
Kolner Dom's ceiling is spectacularly high and its interior ornate.Credit: iStock
"Tasty, speedy and smooth," I smile back with chocolate-coated teeth.
I'm still licking my lips as we pass into the massive foyer of this modern transportation hub. Through its huge glass windows, we get our first view of the two grand spires of Cologne Cathedral.
"You should see this," Chris says in his usual understated manner, and after a short walk, we stand in the shadows of an architectural masterpiece. In the late-afternoon sun, the Gothic building seems incredibly detailed but also foreboding as its blackened sandstone spires tower over us.
Construction on Cologne Cathedral began in 1248, but it wasn't completed until 1880, according to UNESCO, which declared it a World Heritage Site in 1996.
It was quite the project – the High Gothic five-aisled basilica is 144.5 metres long, with a projecting transept that is 86.25 metres wide and a tower façade some 157.22 metres high. The Cathedral was once considered the tallest structure in the world, before the Washington Monument was erected in 1884.
"Cologne Cathedral bears witness to the strength and endurance of European Christianity," according to UNESCO. "No other Cathedral is so perfectly conceived, so uniformly and uncompromisingly executed in all its parts."
That extends from the high altar set on monolithic limestone, to the cycle of stained-glass windows, to the 14 statues on the pillars in the choir, to the tombs of the twelve archbishops and to the 11 giant bells which ring out on Christmas Day. The cathedral contains revered artworks such as the Gero Crucifix (10th century) in the Chapel of the Holy Cross and the Shrine of the Magi (1180-1225), which is believed to hold the remains of the Three Wise Men in the largest known reliquary – a triple sarcophagus. These relics made Cologne Cathedral one of the most important places of pilgrimage in Europe.
Kolner Dom was one of the few buildings still standing after Allied bombing raids during WWII. The pilots used it as a reference point for their raids. The photos of the aftermath of the war are stark – the cathedral stands amid almost complete devastation of the city.
You can pay 4 Euro to ascend the South Tower – which must have spectacular views of the Rhine – but this option is closed now.
Walking inside, the cathedral has the feel of a place that is frequented by tourists as much as parishioners. I can't decide which I am as I walk meekly up the aisle and find a pew near the back of the packed church. (You get a sense that the closer you get to the altar, the further you get from the tour groups. In fact, this is one of Germany's most popular tourist destinations. Some six million people visit the church each year, according to the Cathedral's website.)
Kolner Dom's ceiling is spectacularly high and its interior ornate. A choir is singing hymns that are both beautiful and unrecognisable to my Catholic ears. Between hymns there are readings and prayers. This is not typical Mass. It's a service to commemorate the anniversary of the end of WWI on 28 September 1918. In that horrific conflict, some 17 million people died. It is not the right time to be a tourist and examine the artworks and altars. Instead, I close my eyes and say a quick prayer for peace before we retreat outside. It's time to salute the fallen in a different way.
Chris leads me to the nearby Früh am Dom (www.frueh-am-dom.de), a famous Cologne brewery which opened its doors in 1904 before burning to the ground during an Allied bombing raid in February 1944. They recovered well – this beer hall and authentic German restaurant is bustling this evening. We manage to find a small table outside and look back at the Cathedral as a server arrives.
"Zwei bitte!" Chris orders our first round. The man, dressed in a blue uniform like an old-time train engineer, delivers two test-tube-like glasses of Kolsch, a renowned Cologne beer that they brew on site. Before we are finished the refreshing, golden drop, he returns with more before punching holes in a card like we are at Yum cha.
"Prost!" Our narrow glasses chink.
As the light fades, we notice a large crowd gathering outside the Cathedral. The walls of the southern facade have been lit up by laser projections that highlight the words 'Peace' and 'Never again!'. The Germans have not forgotten the futility of war.
And this is going to be a memorable night in Cologne.
THE DETAILS
FLY
A fine selection of airlines connects to Cologne with one stop in the Middle East, including Etihad, Emirates, Qatar and Qantas. See etihad.com; emirates.com; qatarairways.com; qantas.com
STAY
Hotel Mondial, in the heart of Cologne, is a good base to explore the city. Expect modern decor and design, and some rooms come with views of the Cathedral. The Reissdorf im Mondial restaurant serves regional dishes and local draft beer. Rooms from $193. See all.accor.com/hotel/1306/index.en.shtml
TOUR
Tour Visit the 770-year-old Cologne Cathedral for Mass, confession or prayer. For 6 euro ($10.56), you can ascend the 157-metre tower for a great view of the city (opening hours vary with season). See koelner-dom.de/en
MORE
Dan Fallon travelled at his own expense
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