This was published 5 years ago
Coral Discoverer cruise ship: A nimble vessel perfect for cruising remote north western Australia
The top deck of Coral Discoverer.
I board Coral Discoverer expecting just another cruise ship, but a few days into my journey around the Kimberley coast between Broome and Darwin, I realise I shouldn't really think of it as a cruise ship at all. Coral Discoverer is more like a spaceship, boldly sailing amid Mars-red landscapes only ever visited by an adventurous few.
It docks like the mother ship in hot turquoise bays and sends its passengers out to explore on smaller craft. It's not quite deep space, but sometimes it feels like it. There are no roads, often no internet, always a profound silence. The expedition crew's walkie-talkies crackle as if relaying messages from the far universe.
It seems like defiant madness for a ship of 63 metres in length, carrying just 72 passengers, to be tackling one of Australia's most remote corners, renowned for its gigantic tides, saltwater crocodiles and age-cracked gorges. Yet the nimble size of Coral Discoverer has its advantages. This confident vessel can nudge against reefs, slip behind protective islands and sail up river mouths, thanks to a draught of just three metres.
James Price Point, North of Broome in the Kimberley region features stunning red pinyin cliffs and clear blue sea.Credit: Shutterstock
Good expedition facilities are another key to success in wilderness destinations. Coral Discoverer was purpose-built as an expedition ship in 2005 (as Oceanic Discoverer) and refurbished in 2016 shortly after acquiring its new name. It carries Zodiacs that add another level to exploration, taking small groups into mangroves and reef passages and through the Horizontal Falls. On other cruises (though not in the crocodile-patrolled Kimberley) scuba-diving and kayaking equipment is also available.
The ship also carries purpose-built tender Xplorer that can take all its passengers into very shallow waters, such as the upper reaches of the Prince Regent River, or the bird-haunted sandbanks of the Lacapede Islands. The crew is highly efficient at getting passengers on and off the ship, with little time wasted. Passengers walk straight onto Xplorer from the deck, with the tender then lowered into the water on a hydraulic platform.
We're accompanied at all times by a friendly and knowledgeable expedition team of Aussies and New Zealanders, each with their own area of expertise, from indigenous rock art to bird life. Shore excursions are complemented by intelligent lectures on board, covering topics such as the working of the tides, European exploration of the Kimberley coast, the Indonesian influence on the region, and much under-rated navigator Philip Parker King. These are coupled with evening screenings of documentaries, providing a comprehensive background to the region that really adds to the shore excursion experience.
The Horizontal Falls form at narrow gaps between adjacent bays, due to the big Kimberley tides.Credit: Shutterstock
The ship is small. Don't expect a pool, casino, grand theatre, multiple dining venues or anything else superfluous to Coral Discoverer's purpose, which is to showcase remote and spectacular destinations in Australia, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. If you're hoping for Broadway musicals and culinary classes then you'd best pick another ship and destination. There's no lift (you'll have to tackle steep narrow stairs) and only a limited laundry service.
What you do get is a small lounge that doubles as a lecture venue thanks to its drop-down screen, plus some outdoor deck space, including the chic top-deck Explorer Bar that proves a popular venue for sunset drinks and the occasional barbecue dinner. Some exercise equipment is rather forgotten on the open deck, perhaps because the weather on this particular cruise is still fiercely hot. Rather agreeably, you can also settle into a sofa on the open bridge to enjoy the same view as the ship's captain and watch the nautical operations in action.
The main (and only) dining room has a small bar, coffee station and tables for four or six, with no assigned seating. Coral Discoverer has limited space and just 20 crew, some doubling as waiters. There are (impressively) only two chefs. As a result, though, there are narrow menu choices and sometimes long waits between courses.
Sunset drinks on the deck of Coral Discoverer.
Expect good, home-style cooking rather than haute cuisine, and little by way of adventurous eating – even the curries on Thai night are mild. Mains might include sliced duck breast with pak choi and cashews in a char sui sauce; or rosemary and garlic lamb with roast potatoes, baked pumpkin and cauliflower gratin. Dessert (there's just a single choice, or else ice cream) might be apple crumble, or tiramisu with double cream and pistachio praline.
Buffet lunches offer five or six dishes that might range from vegetable lasagne, ham-and-cheese croissants and smoked-salmon bagels to duck and pork wraps. There are always plenty of salads, and fruit for dessert: you'll probably have healthier food here than on most cruise ships. Beverages including house wines and beer are complimentary at mealtimes. Morning and afternoon teas might tempt you with lamingtons or apricot cake, but these are limited-choice, help-yourself and very modest affairs, not the elaborate white-gloved overdose you get on large ships.
Meals are very sociable occasions. My fellow passengers are nearly all Australian, but that might differ with the season and destination, and there's always a smattering of New Zealanders, Brits and Europeans. It creates a distinctively Australian atmosphere that regular cruisers might find familiar from certain river cruises, but which is rare on the ocean. Most passengers are retirees, with a number of solo travellers and many repeat Coral Expedition customers. Given the stairways, Zodiac landings and mostly steamy climates in which the ship operates, you'll need reasonable fitness levels.
Coral Discoverer at sunset.
Cabins come in five categories but all are small (15 to 20 square metres) and only six new cabins have balconies, which open onto the bridge deck. In general, the walls are white, the wood blonde, the décor a rather masculine tan and olive, brightened by two big, framed photographs that differ from cabin to cabin but show landscapes or animals – whale sharks add big splashes of blue in my room.
I'm in a Promenade Stateroom on the fore mid deck, which has a somewhat uncomfortable sofa, a small desk with Bluetooth dock, two bedside tables and a decent amount of storage space. I can hear quite a bit of banging and rattling from anchor operations, as if a mad poltergeist has been let loose in a medieval dungeon, but here at the front of the ship I hear no engine noise, and the air-conditioning is exceedingly quiet.
It's a reasonably sized, pleasant, even attractive cabin, though lacking a little in soft furnishings (such as curtains, though there's a good blackout blind) and luxe details. Towels are thin, the temperature of the shower water often erratic. Still, when you're on a spaceship exploring what sometimes feels like a different planet, these are passing issues. What you get on Coral Discoverer is abundant complimentary insect repellent and sun cream, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
Brian Johnston travelled as a guest of Coral Expeditions.
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Coral Expeditions' ship Coral Discoverer sails itineraries in the Kimberley, Tasmania, and Cape York and Arnhem Land, as well as Papua New Guinea and Indonesia's Spice Islands. The writer sailed on a 10-day Kimberley cruise between Broome and Darwin. Fares from $8290 per person twin share, including all meals, mealtime beverages and shore excursions. Phone 1800 079 545. See coralexpeditions.com
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