Corfu scooter tour: A guide to exploring one of Greece's most popular islands by Vespa

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This was published 1 year ago

Corfu scooter tour: A guide to exploring one of Greece's most popular islands by Vespa

By Ben Groundwater
Hiring a scooter offers you the chance to go off-piste from the cruise experience.

Hiring a scooter offers you the chance to go off-piste from the cruise experience.Credit: iStock

You get to choose your own adventure on a scooter in Corfu. That street to the right, snaking down towards the pebbly coastline, is an adventure. That road to the left, winding through switchbacks up a steep hill, is another.

These opportunities whiz past constantly, choices, quests. Take that turn. No, that one. Or just continue on the road ahead.

Already today I've lain on a beach beneath a steep, wooded hillside. I've explored rockpools, crystal-clear. I've drunk coffee on a shady patio. I've wandered through villages. I've stopped at an old portside taverna for grilled seafood and salad.

A scooter lets you choose your own adventure, and cover more ground than you would otherwise.

A scooter lets you choose your own adventure, and cover more ground than you would otherwise.Credit: iStock

And I've done all of this thanks to my bright red stallion, a Vespa 150, an Italian scooter that seems to fit in just fine in these Ionian climes. This is the way to see Corfu, or any island for that matter: the sun on your skin, the wind in your hair (this is figurative – you've seen my bio photo), the smell of sea salt and wildflowers and grilled meats in the air.

A scooter is sweet freedom. The chance to choose your own adventure.

I hired this particular beauty from Corfu Town near the port where my cruise ship, the Emerald Azzurra, is waiting. This, for me, is the chance to go off-piste from the cruise experience, to forgo the guided city tour included in our itinerary and instead blaze my own trail, to bid the ship and its passengers goodbye for the day and putter off into the wild blue yonder.

For a while, however, that yonder is just wild. The area to the north-west of Corfu Town is largely industrial and unpleasant, with a dual-lane highway leading motorists out to nicer parts of the island. You start to experience that only once you lean into a right-hand turn on the road towards Dassia, and the bustle of the outskirts begins to give way to Corfu's true splendour.

The road from here hugs the perimeter of the island, a winding pathway that hangs above the rugged coast, following its contours, making sharp turns and easing through gentle bends. It passes busy beaches such as Ipsos and Barbati, where swimsuited tourists carry towels and umbrellas, before tracking countless little bays, each with a village surrounding shimmering waters.

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I've chosen my first adventure: a right turn and a steep descent down to Kaminaki, the tiniest beach, with a few small tavernas and a view across to Albania. There's space to park the Vespa pretty much on the pebbles. This is the perfect spot for a quick swim, to cool and invigorate.

And then I'm back in the saddle, up the hill and onto the coast road, towards Kalami, yet another perfect seaside village huddled around a bay, with more tavernas, more cafes, more villas with views you would do anything to call your own.

The British novelist Lawrence Durrell clearly agreed: he lived here in the 1930s. His former home, the White House, now operates as a guesthouse and restaurant, making the most of those dreamy vistas.

You don't want to stop too long though, on a day like this. The journey really is the destination. The joy of movement is the star attraction.

The coast road now cuts inland, beating a more direct path to Kassiopi, a fishing village with a history that stretches back thousands of years. These days it's a popular hang-out for British holidaymakers, though also the kind of place you can pull up the scooter out the front of a small taverna and feast on grilled sardines in the sun.

All of this adventure, and it's only lunchtime. I'll head back towards Corfu Town soon, through the hilly interior, winding along mountain passes and ducking through medieval villages, whooping with delight – I'm not even lying, some people may have heard me and it would have been embarrassing – at the sheer joy of the open road.

I've chosen my adventures, and I'm very happy with them.

THE DETAILS

HIRE

Corfu Vespa Tours and Rental has new-model Vespa scooters for hire from $38 a day, including helmet. corfuvespatour.com

CRUISE

Emerald Cruises' eight-day Mediterranean Enchantment cruise, from Athens to Dubrovnik aboard the new Azzurra, costs from $6088 a person. These cruises include a one-day stop in Corfu, with guided walking tour. Call 1300 286 110 emeraldcruises.com.au

MORE

traveller.com.au/greece

Ben Groundwater travelled as a guest of Emerald Cruises, though paid for his own Vespa hire.

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