This was published 7 years ago
Pig at Combe, Devonshire: Grandeur without the stuffiness
The Pig at Combe is nestled in the heart of a 1400-hectare estate.
When I first see The Pig at Combe's impressive Elizabethan sandstone exterior, I'm gripped by a fleeting sense of panic. In the heart of a 1400-hectare estate in the lush Devonshire countryside, it looks like the sort of posh stately home where everyone changes outfits five times a day and wears black tie to dinner.
In its previous incarnation as the highly regarded Combe House Hotel, that may well have been the case. However, in October 2015, it was acquired by the Pig group, becoming the fifth in its ever-expanding litter of hotels in south-west England.
The property reopened in July last year after a nine-month makeover during which every facet of stuffiness was stripped away. Gone are the fitted carpets, dark wood panelling, and jacket-and-tie formality; replaced instead with light, airy rooms, mismatched furniture and staff in jeans and Converse.
Georgian kitchen and dining room.
There is still a sense of grandeur thanks to a sweeping gravel drive, imposing wooden staircases and gilt-framed paintings, but this is a country pile where you can put your feet up without worrying about offending the Dowager Countess.
The property's 27 rooms are divided between the main house and a converted Georgian stable. And thanks to the interior design skills of the Pig group's founders, husband and wife team Robin and Judy Hutson, no two are the same.
My stable room has a comfortable king-size bed, a large monsoon rain shower and a kitchenette with a retro 60s-style fridge, kettle and coffee machine. Rough wooden walls and a muted olive green colour scheme lend it a rustic, lived-in vibe while homely touches include a basil plant from the garden as a welcome gift and handmade soaps wrapped in paper and twine.
The harbour wall, also known as The Cobb, at Lyme Regis, Dorset.Credit: Getty Images
When a hotel group's tagline is "a restaurant with rooms", it sets high culinary expectations. Fortunately, the kitchen delivers thanks to the combined efforts of executive chef Dan Gavriilidis and head gardener Alex Coutts, who between them have access to an abundance of quality local produce.
The hotel has three large walled kitchen gardens and the menu changes daily (sometimes twice daily) with a section listing the ingredients that were "Literally picked this morning". What can't be grown on-site is mostly sourced from within 40 kilometres and on the back of the menu is a detailed description of their preferred local suppliers.
The result is fresh, tasty British food served in a buzzy, informal atmosphere. On my first night, the highlight is flavoursome hand-dived scallops from Lyme Bay accompanied by chunks of handmade pancetta and fennel puree. On the second, it's succulent lamb shoulder from Pipers Farm, served with crushed Arran potatoes and perfectly al dente broccoli and snow peas. Breakfast is similarly impressive – a sumptuous buffet of cereals, fruit and freshly baked pastries served on mismatched china that can also be enjoyed outside on a sun-drenched terrace.
The restaurant at The Pig at Combe.
Great food needs a great setting and the spacious, high-ceilinged restaurant copes admirably, changing effortlessly from an airy, light-flooded space during breakfast into an intimate candlelit venue for dinner.
For a quick bite, there's also The Folly, a former orangery that's now a casual eatery serving salads and flatbreads made on-site in a wood-fired oven.
For those keen to get out and about, the hotel has complimentary bikes and Wellington boots for strolls around the estate. Trout fishing can also be arranged on the nearby River Otter.
The Pig at Combe underwent a nine-month makeover.
Jump in a car and Devon's spectacular Jurassic Coast – a World Heritage site with cliffs showcasing 185 million years of geological history – is only 15 kilometres away.
The quaint village of Beer, with its art gallery-lined high street and fishing boat-strewn beach, is a must-see, as is the quintessentially English hamlet of Branscombe. For a step back in time, Sidmouth is a bustling Regency-era seaside resort with a good range of cafes and independent stores.
Further afield are the cathedral city of Exeter and the popular coastal resort of Lyme Regis, whose picturesque harbour wall (known as the Cobb) featured in Jane Austen's Persuasion and John Fowles' The French Lieutenant's Woman.
A rustic homely vibe has replaced the posh factor at The Pig at Coombe.
Despite these compelling attractions, I suspect many guests will be happy to hibernate in the hotel. And when one is this good, I can't blame them. I stayed just 10 days after the hotel opened – normally a period plagued by teething problems – and the only niggle I experienced was patchy Wi-Fi in the stable rooms. Even the Dowager Countess couldn't grumble about that.
TRIP NOTES
MORE
Airy rooms at The Pig at Combe.
FLY
There are three large walled kitchen gardens.
British Airways flies from Sydney and Melbourne to London via Singapore. Phone 1300 767 177. See britishairways.com
STAY
The Pig at Combe, near Honiton, Devon, Britain. The hotel is a three-hour drive from London or a 15-minute drive from Exeter station. Doubles from £145. See thepighotel.com
Rob McFarland was a guest of Visit Britain and The Pig at Combe.
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