Dinner by Heston Blumenthal restaurant, Melbourne: Is 'Meat Fruit', the mandarin-style pate, worth it?

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This was published 7 years ago

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal restaurant, Melbourne: Is 'Meat Fruit', the mandarin-style pate, worth it?

By Sinead Pearson
Updated
The citrus burst combined with the toasted bread is 10/10.

The citrus burst combined with the toasted bread is 10/10.

When looking for a weekend getaway, some people search for the best beaches or resorts to spend their time. But for others, the planning revolves around one organ. The stomach.

Canberra's Patissez caused mayhem when it introduced the "Freak Shake".. As word spread, the home of the Freak quickly became the drawcard for a weekend getaway to taste the chocolate brownies, pretzels, toasted marshmallows, whipped cream and Nutella piled on top of a milkshake. At the same time, Sydney's Platform Eighty Two was attracting crowds from far and wide after launching their monstrous breakfast share plates.

Food destinations are on this rise. This is how I found myself boarding a flight to Melbourne for a fruit – specifically speaking a mandarin.

Heston Blumenthal is no stranger to Australian foodies. A pioneer of molecular gastronomy, Blumenthal has changed the way diners smell, sniff, observe their meal. And now, it looks like Blumenthal is here to stay. After a Melbourne pop-up version of his London flagship restaurant Fat Duck was a runaway success, Blumenthal established a permanent presence at the Crown Casino, with Dinner by Heston recently celebrating its one year anniversary.

Over the last 12 months, Heston's #meatfruit has been building an irresistible presence on my social media feed. With over 10,000 tags and comments depicting the genius and innovation of the dish it was no longer possible to ignore. An exemplar of deception. A perfect mandarin, that's not a mandarin at all, served with a piece of chargrilled bread had made my decision simple. I had to try it.

Tensions were high as we walked through the Crown Casino food court. There was $10 sweet and sour pork with fried rice. Two salmon sushi rolls for $8. Was paying $160 for lunch too extreme? Would I be just as satisfied with a ham and cheese toastie? I had come this far. There was no turning back.

Arriving at Dinner by Heston the inspiration of historical British gastronomy was clear. The dining room, complete with an open glass kitchen was like watching an orchestra of chefs playing knives and forks. Glistening, skinned pineapples twirled on a spit roast as the front of house team spun in perfect precision as they plated entrees.

We are told that the five-course set menu, together created with headchef Ashley Palmer-Watts, is a contemporary reflection on the tastes and flavours of British and Australian history. Inspiration travels back to 15th century manuscripts with each dish carefully researched and checked by experts.

The cocktail list, created by British bartender Tony Conigliaro, also reveals its historical influence. I select a Bloody Mary (circa 1920) that I learn was first claimed by Fernand Petitot, a Parisian bartender. Expecting a thick, red tomato juice concoction with celery leaves bursting out of it, I am confused when I receive a glass of white wine.

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Already fooled, I make the attendant aware of the mix up. The order is correct, however, as a waft of worcestershire greets me. Created with tomato consomme, celery oil, pepper distillate and more. I lower my head in culinary shame.

The masterpiece continues with each course as surprising as the next. Curried kangaroo tail, wood sorrel and smoked roe, ingredients that make me strongly consider setting up camp and refuse to leave the establishment.

Meat fruit (circa 1500) is the second course that arrives. Described as a mandarin, chicken liver parfait and grilled bread. I think I snap a photo before it even reaches my place table. The whole world has to know that I am eating a Heston Blumenthal mandarin. It is a true beauty, with a green stalk protruding from the orange jelly. After ten insta-worthy shots I break through the soft satiny skin and let the rich parfait exude. The citrus burst combined with the toasted bread is divine. The serving is generous with each bite better then the last.

As the last mouthful, I ponder over my life choices. My credit card has taken a hit. My washing is still in the machine back home. I still haven't bought lightbulbs for my bathroom that blew four months ago. But I ate Heston Blumenthal's famous mandarin and it was worth it.

If you are looking for a foodie holiday this summer, put Heston's on the top of your list.

The writer lives in Sydney and travelled at her own expense.

Five other top places to eat in Melbourne

1. For Indian Cuisine down one of Melbourne's most iconic laneways, eat at Tonka. See www.tonkarestaurant.com.au

2. For Asian-inspired dishes and delicious cocktails visit Supernormal. See www.supernormal.net.au

3. For all things Japanese in a hip basement venue check out Izakaya Den. See http://www.izakayaden.com.au

4. Eat at Melbourne's most successful Thai eatery at ChinChin. See www.chinchinrestaurant.com.au/

5. If burgers and shakes are your thing, Betty's Burgers is a must. See http://www.bettysburgers.com.au/

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